Prepping and painting wheels?
doitdub
familEE
I've got some stock RT white wheels that have scratches here and there and need refinished. They also need the tires replaced, so I figured I would get the tires off and to the painting then.
Anyone have any advice for the following:
Getting the tires off the rim at home? - I'd rather not take them somewhere and get charged $10 a tire just to take them home, paint them, and go back and pay another $10 mounting fee for the new tires.
Prepping and paint them??
Thanks.
Anyone have any advice for the following:
Getting the tires off the rim at home? - I'd rather not take them somewhere and get charged $10 a tire just to take them home, paint them, and go back and pay another $10 mounting fee for the new tires.
Prepping and paint them??
Thanks.
Comments
Mounting/dismounting tires at home? Sure, I do it all the time. Some specialty tools like a tire hammer and a pair of spoons help, but aren't necessary. I made my tire spoons from 2 old GM jack crank handles, I think Northern sells a pair for like $25. Large screwdrivers or small crowbars work too. It's the same as a bicycle tire, just bigger
Let all the air out (duh)
Make up a soap solution, just dish soap and water. Apply to both beads. Don't use petroleum lubes, they degrade rubber.
Break both tire beads loose from the rim-this can be the hard part. I have a duckbill hammer for the purpose. The next best thing is a jack: lay the tire/wheel flat under a vehicle and put the base of your jack on the bead of the tire. Use the jack to push the tire down. When I was a kid we used bumper jacks... don't see those much anymore! I've also driven trucks over tires to break them down (not recommended, but it works.)
Look at the rim and see which lip is narrower. You MUST take the tire off this side! Lay the tire on the ground, narrow side up. Apply more soap. Now, use your first bar to pry the tire bead off the rim WHILE SIMULTANEOUSLY pushing the bead down directly opposite your bar. Now, while holding the first bar down, get another "bite" with the other bar a few inches along the bead. You'll know if you try to do too much at once, it just won't work. Conversely, if it's way easy you could've gone bigger. Do a few and you'll get a feel for it.
Now hold the second bar down, and use the first bar to get the next bite. At this point you should be able to pull off the first bead by hand.
Repeat the process for the other bead.
Installation is the reverse of removal, and again, you MUST go from the narrower lip side of the rim.
Above all, WORK SAFELY! If you think 40 bucks to have the tires dismounted is steep, try a trip to the ER. Just use common sense, please. I've injured myself working on tires, but then again I've done hundreds of them...
I've refurbished about 7 or 8 sets of wheels now.
If the tyres are on, its no worries taping up the rim - just takes a bit longer, or use a pack of playing cards like Billboard did on his red RT GT3's, and lay a dust sheet round the tyre.
Getting the tyre off is best, and if its off you may as well get them sandblasted, as mentioned already.
Just a quick guide...
*You want a well vented and warm/hot room, smaller the better, dust mask as well are essential. Quality masking tape is also a must!
- I rough up (after the old paint is stripped off) with 120grit sandpaper.
- Then apply red oxide/zinc or another corrosion preventing primer.
- Give it at least 3 coats, I turn the wheel 90degrees each time to stay even, and go horozontal with the spray. Leave to dry for a few hours so its completely dry.
- Wet sand with 400grit paper. Apply another layer of primer to make sure the whole wheel is covered and no imperfections.
- Then lightly wet sand with 800grit paper.
- Apply colour, in the same way as primer, making sure the whole wheel is covered. It can be tricky as some wheels are a PITA to get paint in all the spokes. Don't sand the colour!
- Before last coat of the colour is dry, apply first coat of lacquer, same way as previous. Leave to dry for an hour at least. Apply at least 3 more coats of lacquer, repeating the previous method.
- When all lacquer has been applied, let it dry for as long as you can. You can leave it as it is, but depending on the wheel, and the out-come...
- Then after at least 24hrs, wet sand it with 2000grit, with some car shampoo in the water.
- After you've wet/soap sanded, get some decent cutting paste and polish up that shit, give it a good buff!
Polishing rims... (do before spraying!!!)
- Make sure there is no lacquer or paint on the rim
- For really bad corrosion, sand with 120grit, for good condition use 240grit.
- Now wet sand, starting at 240, and going to 1200grit.
- Next get some wirewool/scouring pad with some Autosol or metal polish, go round the rim with it a few times.
- Buff off, and repeat if necessary.
- Now wet sand with 2000grit.
- Then use some wool or an old fleece with some metal polish on, and go round each rim a few times.
- Buff off, reapet if necessary. Job done!
Post pics when you get around to doing yours!
lols foshizzle... i just sand, then stick a deck of cards around the outside and spray...
I'm looking to re do my RT steelies as well.
I will own one, one of these days.
That is insane looking!!
Here is the chrome edition
http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-Golf-Country-Sync ... 3a54faa604
It definately needs some more power though. 72kw (90hp) for power isn't all that much.
Thread jack thread jack!
i saw one for sale locally, in purple. sold pretty damn quick too
8)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-MK2-Golf-GTI-1 ... 45eefc144f