... when slamming a car you will still get...increased suspension travel provided by the drop forks/pro arms but your front upper control arms may come into contact with the top of the inner fender well when going over rough roads.
:? Wrong.The UCA stays in the same place.Only the frt.LCA is higher up 'cuz the fork is shorter.Your wheel will probably hit the inner well b4 the UCA.
:? Wrong.The UCA stays in the same place.Only the frt.LCA is higher up 'cuz the fork is shorter.Your wheel will probably hit the inner well b4 the UCA.
If the LCA goes up, the UCA goes up too. They are joined together by the knuckle.
whats the point of these i had completely the wrong idea when i was buyin them haha i just really wanted some rare goodies on there :P i thought it might make it better for shock travel since i only got so much room on the spring perch on my konis but idk..
Well let's say you like your current ride height on your Koni setup and want to maintain that height. If you add the Drop Forks/Pro Arms you can keep that height by turning up the adjustment perch on your coilovers(assuming you are using coilovers) thus increasing the suspension travel by 1.5 inches and gaining much better ride quality. I hope I explained this clearly. Makes sense in my head. :?
ogwagon is right. Basically these front forks and rear arms allow the chassis to sit lower without compressing the shocks into their travel. You can get a 1.5" drop and still have the shocks and springs at OEM extension.
:? Wrong.The UCA stays in the same place.Only the frt.LCA is higher up 'cuz the fork is shorter.Your wheel will probably hit the inner well b4 the UCA.
If the LCA goes up, the UCA goes up too. They are joined together by the knuckle.
Look the fork isnt shorter, its a drop spindle. The hub assembly is raised up 1.5" on the fork. Thats why you have to run a 15" or bigger so it will clear the lower ball joint. The UCA dosent move anywhere when adding these. So its a 1.5" drop without altering the shock/spring and UCA. Its common since on how it works. Just look at Belltech's drop spindles for trucks and stuff. Its the same idea
I think you guys are getting mixed up between the HT Motorsports (Ryane Motorsports) Drop Spindles and Drop Arms (trailing arms) posted in another thread here: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7143 and the Suspension Techniques Drop Forks and Drop Arms (lower control arms) in this thread.
they look/are different but won't they both do the same thing in the end?
they both will lower the front end of the car 1.5 inch with out sacrificing the suspension travel :?:
now imagine :idea: using both parts together at the same time, if thats even possible, . 8) you can get a total of 3 inch drop in the front even with stock suspension and stock feel!
they look/are different but won't they both do the same thing in the end?
they both will lower the front end of the car 1.5 inch with out sacrificing the suspension travel :?:
now imagine :idea: using both parts together at the same time, if thats even possible, . 8) you can get a total of 3 inch drop in the front even with stock suspension and stock feel!
No.
They achieve the same level of lowering, but the Drop Spindles do it in a much more elegant manner. They preserve the OEM suspension geometry, keeping the upper and lower control arms at the same angles as if the car was still at OEM ride height, as well as preserving shock travel.
The Drop Forks only preserve the shock travel. They still put the control arms at less than ideal angles.
If you were to combine the 2, you could end up with a 3" drop without compromising shock travel, but you'd end up with very little if any clearance between the top of the tire and the inside of the fender well.
200 of it for the arms and 100 for the drop forks. but you can only get the arms in a kit. I was willing to pay 150 per arm. it's only slightly more than a set of function 7 or ksport lca's. I never liked the idea of washers fixing my camber. I like this tie rod style adjustment. It allows for a precise camber alignment on the rear which is something i just cant get on my other cars like my bmw 318ti without removing and welding tabs onto the rear subframe.
In my experience the alignment shop will get it close with washers or shims or tell you they just dont want to do it. "as long as you rotate your tires you should be ok"
With the ST pro arms if I have the suspension set on a rack and mark them. I can dial in negative camber on the rear at will for autocross type events and put them back to daily driving camber after.
I really want to put air ride on the wagon i'd like to beable to be low but still have some pressure in the bags for drivability. and when i park for the car to be completely on the ground. many people have to notch things and make sacrifices to get their bagged cars to go truly low. ST already did a lot of the work that i would need to free up about 1.5 inches of vertial space and fit some bags neatly in there.
That's what i was thinking when i was looking at these before i bought them.
Ordered mine yesterday, recieved them today! I believe there are five complete sets left now. They look pretty well built, though from what I remember the red bushings eventually squeak like a b*tch. Has anyone had any problems with noise coming from these?
Never had problems with noise if you use the lube that the kit comes with. I know after years of use the lube will kind
of break down and wash out. You may have to lube them again after some time.
i want these just so when i switch from my summer and winter heights its as easy as swapping parts. I hate having to bust out the tape measure 100 times trying to make sure your lifting/lowering the car correctly. i just lifted the wagon i was super careful to get it level and the front end was about 3/8'ths of an inch too high :twisted:
Hm, so it looks like they sent me two right arms instead of one right and one left. I'm going to have to give them a call and see if they have anymore left arms instock to swap with. Otherwise I'll be shimming the sway bar mount with a steel spacer.
Comments
:? Wrong.The UCA stays in the same place.Only the frt.LCA is higher up 'cuz the fork is shorter.Your wheel will probably hit the inner well b4 the UCA.
If the LCA goes up, the UCA goes up too. They are joined together by the knuckle.
Look the fork isnt shorter, its a drop spindle. The hub assembly is raised up 1.5" on the fork. Thats why you have to run a 15" or bigger so it will clear the lower ball joint. The UCA dosent move anywhere when adding these. So its a 1.5" drop without altering the shock/spring and UCA. Its common since on how it works. Just look at Belltech's drop spindles for trucks and stuff. Its the same idea
they both will lower the front end of the car 1.5 inch with out sacrificing the suspension travel :?:
now imagine :idea: using both parts together at the same time, if thats even possible, . 8) you can get a total of 3 inch drop in the front even with stock suspension and stock feel!
No.
They achieve the same level of lowering, but the Drop Spindles do it in a much more elegant manner. They preserve the OEM suspension geometry, keeping the upper and lower control arms at the same angles as if the car was still at OEM ride height, as well as preserving shock travel.
The Drop Forks only preserve the shock travel. They still put the control arms at less than ideal angles.
If you were to combine the 2, you could end up with a 3" drop without compromising shock travel, but you'd end up with very little if any clearance between the top of the tire and the inside of the fender well.
That would explain why they are so cheap lol. I like the rear lower control arms alot but the drop forks I dont like to much
In my experience the alignment shop will get it close with washers or shims or tell you they just dont want to do it. "as long as you rotate your tires you should be ok"
With the ST pro arms if I have the suspension set on a rack and mark them. I can dial in negative camber on the rear at will for autocross type events and put them back to daily driving camber after.
I really want to put air ride on the wagon i'd like to beable to be low but still have some pressure in the bags for drivability. and when i park for the car to be completely on the ground. many people have to notch things and make sacrifices to get their bagged cars to go truly low. ST already did a lot of the work that i would need to free up about 1.5 inches of vertial space and fit some bags neatly in there.
That's what i was thinking when i was looking at these before i bought them.
of break down and wash out. You may have to lube them again after some time.
Yep, it's the extra nub thing near the bend.
what rear sways is everyone getting to work with these?
pics of these and rear sways installed please, if you got them.
check out post 46 for an install pic of the rear....
Picture was already posted on the first page.