Clutch Adjustment Question Please....

I recently was driving my wagon 4wd... it slowly began to get harder to get it into gear... so i adjusted the clutch line.. that worked for a little... then the clutch started to slip.. and then one day it completly stopped going into gear... i did a new clutch and clutch line... its alll back together... but now when i step on the clutch i dont feel like its there. and it wont go into gear... i can push the pedle down.. and it comes back up a little but not all the way...

im so confused.. and getting so frustrated from this... i just wanna be back on the road again.. any advice would be greatly appreciated... ive been searching... but none of the issues are exactly the same...

thanks in advance...

Comments

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    sounds like maybe you have a broken pedal assembly.
  • bam-bam wrote:
    sounds like maybe you have a broken pedal assembly.
    okay.... so how do i find out if thats definatly the issue?
  • anyone have any other words?? im bout to go into the garage again...and im going to lose my mind..
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Get a flashlight and stick your head under the dash and look. Check the part where the clutch pedal pivots. It's very common for them to crack.
  • Yup. If you do a search on here, there are some pictures of what you're looking for. If you don't find it here, try the EF forum on that "other" Honda website.
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    sounds exactly like what my old wagon did the clutch pedal bracket was bending.... i bet thats what it is.
  • I fear I'm heading in the same direction (clutch pedal failure) - mine groans like a haunted house door when applied, but after having a look it seems as if a previous owner may have fixed this part before as I have some UGLY welds in on the ass'y + a missing nut (the car, not me) :oops:
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    :lol:

    Yeah it's a common one allright. best method is to get one that hasn't yet cracked and then reinforce it.
  • ScallyWagScallyWag Wagonist
    UPDATE: After adjusting my clutch interlock switch, the car continued running fine for a couple of months, even with the pedal groaning away.... Until last month, when it started getting harder to get into gear - so I adjusted my clutch and everything was allright (for a week). Then it started getting harder to get into gear - so I adjusted my clutch and everything was allright again (for another week). This went on for a while, until one night, leaving the bank, the motor wouldn't crank :x and pedal noise had worsened (broken).... I had to have a friend stand on the clutch pedal while I pulled up on the clutch lever (under the hood) to get it to start, then get the car rolling before I could get the shifter to first gear (drove home without clutch - good thing I'm a truck-driving son of a gun). I have since removed my pedal cluster (a royal bee-otch of a dig) and have my buddy welding it up and adding a backing plate for strength.

    I am assuming :oops: that it was a failure of my pedal, caused by gradually tightening the cable that left me stranded (and by my previous need to adjust the interlock switch). The pedal is totally twisted and cracked, the cable seems ok (slides easily), however the fact I needed to lift the lever to get crank worries me, as the interlock switch is at the far end of the cable!

    I sure hope I'm fixing the right part, and that something internal in the clutch hasn't failed.

    Thoughts?
  • ScallyWagScallyWag Wagonist
    Update: My friend welded the beejesus outta my clutch pedal cluster, and added a 1/16" backing plate... installation is pretty much the reverse of removal.... In terms of actual technical knowledge required, this is an easy job (minus the welding) and ultimately cost me zero $ to complete :D - and I'm well aware how much this repair may have cost through a "real" mechanic (thanks HCW!)... very few tools required as well but plenty of patience is due to the tight quarters under the dash - If you don't remove the driver's seat for working space, do what I did and make a "table" at the same height as the door sill then lay face-up head-in from out side the car; add a cardboard box on the floor pan for head support / pillow and you've got the perfect place to take a nap / hide from the wife! :lol:

    All in all I had to: remove the fuse panel (two nuts and a bunch of electrical connectors), drop the steering column (six nut/bolts), remove both transverse under-dash air ducts (grrrr!), unfasten first the transmission end of the clutch cable then the pedal end (push the cable slightly towards the pedal while depressing pedal a touch) , detch the throttle cable from the top of the gas pedal (easy), pull a cotter pin to detach the master cylinder from the brake pedal, unfasten the pedal cluster (about six nuts) and fish it out.... weld it up and reverse the process! Took me a total of four beer-drinkin hours... next time I'd say I could do it in about an hour or two :D

    Don't forget to adjust your clutch interlock and brakelight engagement switches, and re-adjust your clutch.... and you're done! 8)

    PS - My actual clutch was just fine - all my grief was caused solely by the failed pedal... but now the car shifts like a dream and has much better clutch "feel"
  • leWolfleWolf Senior Wagonist
    Yeah, just had to swap the pedal assembly out on my wifes wagon and now it drives! It also pushes on the ac vent so I gotta fix that now. Yeah apparently 4 door sedan pedal assemblies are different. :cry:
  • i just had my pedal welded back together.
    it has been broken the whole time ive had the car but hasnt really been a problem until this week.
    it started getting really hard to get in gear.

    omg so much better! feels like a clutch should now. smooth... and it doesnt sound like im stepping on spongebob every time i shift. haha no squeeks


    and thanks scallywag for the overview on what needed to be removed. what a pain in the ass
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