new wheel studs...

FakeJDMEF8FakeJDMEF8 Senior Wagonist
in Suspension, Braking & Wheels
im looking into doing new wheel bearings and figured i should do the studs too. there are tons of sellers on ebay selling ARP knock offs. has anyone purchased some other than ARP and been pleased with them?

Comments

  • 949949 Senior Wagonist
    i have installed my friends car with cheap ones like ebay non named brands. no problems as to date but they are now regretting it cause for a little bit more money they can have arp. arp have better material in their product. you wont have to worry about it breaking on you when you need it the most. it isnt going to be that much more money with arp.
  • theidealonetheidealone New Wagonist
    Get ARPs from Summit or Craigslist. I went with newer GM/Camaro ARP studs. They have bigger knurls, and will stay in place better than the same sized ones like Skunk or Blox. Also, they were cheaper to buy these in a set of 5, than it was to buy a set of 4 for a "Honda/Acura".

    Google this subject, thats how I decided to use Camaro studs.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    Why change the studs?It would be easy with the hub out.

    I used studs made by Dorman #610-408(box of 10) M12-1.5 X 48mm.Stock length is 40mm.About 1/3 the cost of ARP.Get them that your local auto parts store for less than $25.They even come in longer lengths.Could never find a Dorman catalog.
  • ogwagonogwagon Wagonist
    After witnessing my friends problems w/Skunk wheel studs, I opted to spend a little extra and just buy the ARP's. The threads on the Skunk's started to strip after a few installs and removals during track events. A couple of studs even came loose from the hub making it very difficult to remove the wheel altogether. The Skunk and Blox are made from a softer material and also don't fit quite as tight in the hub as the ARP versions. For something like this I would say just buy what is proven and don't risk your safety to save a few bucks. By the way, the ARP's have held up nicely after several removals/installs with a cordless impact at the track.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    I don't know any thing about the Skunk/Blox studs.Yes the ARP's are harder,but most peeps don't need them.I'd say yes for heavy track use.The Dorman's are the same one's you get @ the major brand parts houses that are used on street cars/trucks.Stripped studs can be caused by many things.
    1)Improper install(e.g.wrong stud alignment ,not fully seating the stud head,checking tightness after install,etc.)
    2)Using the stud install w/o removing the hub(involves grinding part of the stud head off).There's a vdo on Youtube.This method maybe fine for 1 or 2 studs,but I don't know about 4 studs?.
    3)Stripped nut.
    4)Not threading the nut before using a impact.Fine for NASCAR guys 'cuz they can fix it after the race.On occasion I see them strip out a ARP stud or nut.I always hand start mine.
    5)Idiot shop jocks that OVERTORQUE the nuts that strip the stud,nut &/or warp the rotor(Honda rotors can be warped this way).I've even seen mechanics using those special torque extensions(that's expose to NOT overtorque the nut) overtorque them.That's why I retorque them after any shop removes a wheel.
  • WagonWhirledWagonWhirled New Wagonist
    ^ that is correct. torque to 80 foot pounds front and rear always.
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