I guess it depends on how you look at it. Around the military bases you get most of the popular US Model cars (trucks aren't too common though, especially the older models), on the German side they aren't that common and they bring a pretty high price. I paid 800 for this bucket that barely ran, has rust underneath both doors (when I say rust I mean holes), both rear fender wells have rust (reminds me of the wagons), two bald tires, an intake manifold that had three or four buckets of JB weld to fix the broken water inlet, bad ball joints, and two broken sway bar links. I overpaid according to most but I can do all the work myself and with all this house crap rebuilding I am doing I need a truck.
The truck is getting a 4/6 drop, edelbrock MPFI conversion, fully tunable computer wired into the onboard pc that I am installing, full engine rebuild, full suspension rebuild, and a new paint job with all new panels. I want the AE86, Wagon, and the truck all running by the summer so hopefully all goes well.
So I read through your thread last night. Let me first tell you that you have done an amazing job on this wagon. Be it not my style, I still think it looks gorgeous. I can really appreciate the work and effort that goes into truly custom mods(I could say this about almost all wagons on here since most of what we do is custom)but yeah.
My question is what flares did you use? I'm looking to flare my wagon, but just screw/rivit them on(my wagon will be mostly off road use).
Thanks for any info you can throw at me, I've did a bit of searching bout flares people are using but I was curious which you used.
If you are going to go the screw/rivet mount then go with the 240sx ones. That is what I used at first, and what Jaker is using at present. Much easier to fit since they are fiberglass then what I went through, and easy to take off i you don't like them. What I have on there now I cut off a Euro car and I doubt would have worked easily with just the bolt/rivet method. Again if I had the option I would go back to the fiberglass ones but too late now.
took forever to find the right length since they do not make a 3 rib at the length I needed.
I used to struggle with this same problem until I realised that with careful application of a really sharp knife, some patience, a smooth block of wood and a steady hand, I could make any number of rib belts (4 or more) into a 3 rib. It's best if you use a 6 rib, then you get 2 for 1. I usually get an 8 rib since mine uses a 4 rib.
Already there Jaker . The adapter pushed the supercharger just out of reach of the JRSC belts and of course a 3 rib isn't made at a 1255 length. A quick search of SummitRacing got a 6 rib in just about any length I wanted. Put a new razor blade in the vise and just pulled the belt through real slow and steady. Two belts for the price of one
Now I am trying to find a power steering pump pulley that utilizes the ribbed belt vs the v-belt.
I found I had a lot more control if I just layed the belt flat ribs up on a block of smooth wood, and ran the knife along the middle groove to try and keep the cut nice and straight.
The vise I have has a pretty wide bite on it so I was able to pull the belt down over the edges while pulling the belt across with the blade clamped down at an angle. Worked very well considering I only had blades and no knife to stick them in. Got a perfect cut, belt has been installed and tightened. Now just wiring it back up and hooking up all the hoses.
Please bare with the crappy cell phone pics. The only thing I had that I didn't mind getting dirty greasy hands all over.
I know there is probably nobody going to do this combination in there wagon but if anybody does you will have some definite clearance issues when trying to install a DOHC ZC, with a JRSC, and the adapter plate (DOHC to SOHC intake adapter). You will also need a custom belt (which I have yet to find) because the additional space created by the adapter doesn't allow the normal JRSC belt to fit. I will be going to the parts store next week hoping they can get me something close.
Here is the part where I had to cut into the frame to make room for the pulley and the belt.
Here is the pic with the motor finally locked down in place. Stock power steering pump has been fitted to a modified stock power steering pump bracket but some lines will have to be run different.
the wagon will start undressing itself once the supercharger kicks in.
A couple questions/comments. Do you have a flex in your exhaust at all? It does not appear from the photos I saw of the header mods that you do. Is it after the cat? You might have some trouble without it. Are you going to be able to fit the master cylinder back on? I know I had issues with my Endyn supercharger kit, and from the looks of your engine bay, that might be the case for you as well. As far as the frame rail/belt clearance, I was all set to do pretty much exactly what you did. Got in there to do some measuring, knew I needed only about an extra 1/4-3/8", and decided that the BFH would be a whole lot less work, and once I was done and cleaned/painted the engine bay, it would be almost invisible down there next to the engine.
And congrats on the truck. I have a 92 350 extended cab Silverado with 2 tone silver/black paint, 4/6 ST drop, ST sway bars, Edelbrock headers, full 2 1/2" true dual exhaust, AEM cold air intake, 20" Centerlines, 275/45-20 in the back (higher weight rating) and 275/40-20 in the front and rear air bags which are needed if you want to put anything in the bed once it's lowered. It's getting a bit beat, and I'm teetering on either spending a bunch of loot to restore it, or give up on it and sell it for what I can get. I need a tow vehicle for the wagon for when I go racing, and this thing does great.
Oh, and these are the exact flares I used on my car:
Yeah the master cylinder fits back on. Very little clearance though and just in case I will be fabbing up a heat shield. The hammer was a thought but my neighbor is a machinist and has crap loads of metal laying around so I went this route.
There is no flex pipe in there at this point. I will be stiffening up all the mounts and we will see how it goes. Did this on a civic I had a long time ago and removed the flex pipe on it as well and after stiffening up the mounts I had very very little movement in the motor with no issues for years, but I am probably going to add one just to be safe after I get all the crap worked out.
I had an old 76 Chevy stepside when I was a teen but with all the military moves I made as a kid it eventually was sold. When I saw this truck it was time to get back into it and build something with my little girl.
A couple questions/comments. Do you have a flex in your exhaust at all? It does not appear from the photos I saw of the header mods that you do. Is it after the cat? You might have some trouble without it. Are you going to be able to fit the master cylinder back on? I know I had issues with my Endyn supercharger kit, and from the looks of your engine bay, that might be the case for you as well. As far as the frame rail/belt clearance, I was all set to do pretty much exactly what you did. Got in there to do some measuring, knew I needed only about an extra 1/4-3/8", and decided that the BFH would be a whole lot less work, and once I was done and cleaned/painted the engine bay, it would be almost invisible down there next to the engine.
And congrats on the truck. I have a 92 350 extended cab Silverado with 2 tone silver/black paint, 4/6 ST drop, ST sway bars, Edelbrock headers, full 2 1/2" true dual exhaust, AEM cold air intake, 20" Centerlines, 275/45-20 in the back (higher weight rating) and 275/40-20 in the front and rear air bags which are needed if you want to put anything in the bed once it's lowered. It's getting a bit beat, and I'm teetering on either spending a bunch of loot to restore it, or give up on it and sell it for what I can get. I need a tow vehicle for the wagon for when I go racing, and this thing does great.
Oh, and these are the exact flares I used on my car:
So I was bored and decided to pick up a front bumper for a Civic (paid way too much, dollar to euro conversion is killing me). Of course it doesn't fit, and it is far from fitting right. (I HATE FIBERGLASS). As always looked great in the pics. It will definitely need a lot of work to make fit and look right, but we will see if I keep it or if it was money wasted.
And no I am not going for that crap rusted hood look, the hood will be painted soon.
There hasn't been any updates since I took those pics. Never thought of my wagon as inspirational considering all the wagons on here that make mine look like a pile-o-sh@#! The good news is the wagon is back on the lift after finishing up my truck, and getting the house ready for the winter. So hopefully I can get some work done before the 10 hour six day work weeks start.
Here is my 1990 Chevy C1500 I finished up a couple of months ago. Still a beater but fully rebuilt motor, 4-6 inch drop, underdrive pullies, rebuilt suspension system, complete new brake system with custom lines by me, helper spring air bag kit on the rear custom fit by me, new lower door panels, new rocker panels, new cab corners, new rear quarters, complete new exhaust system 3" all the way back, everything done in my little garage! Took nine months to finish but it is complete and running. My daughter LOVES IT!!
Picture of the engine bay when I picked it up. The guy I bought it from actually used JB WELD to glue the thermostat housing on. Lasted 30 seconds on the autobahn before every drop of fluid in the cooling system turned to steam!
After, powdercoated just about everything I could fit in my oven (in my garage of course).
Mitsubishi Dual Electric fan setup from an EVO (junkyard find for 10 bucks) fitted behind the grille to clean up the bay.
Rear bag setup I had to custom fit because the company that said it was supposed to fit was completely WRONG!
Hear it is in all its beat up glory.
Hopefully some new pics of the wagon to come SOON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Want to thank THATDOODLE for helping me out with some of the parts!!!!! Without him might still be looking at this thing sitting on top my wagon in the garage!
Comments
Do us all a favor, put the wagon on top
The truck is getting a 4/6 drop, edelbrock MPFI conversion, fully tunable computer wired into the onboard pc that I am installing, full engine rebuild, full suspension rebuild, and a new paint job with all new panels. I want the AE86, Wagon, and the truck all running by the summer so hopefully all goes well.
The oil keeps it from rusting
My question is what flares did you use? I'm looking to flare my wagon, but just screw/rivit them on(my wagon will be mostly off road use).
Thanks for any info you can throw at me, I've did a bit of searching bout flares people are using but I was curious which you used.
Thanks for the quick reply, I'm avoiding work with hcw
Might want to talk Jaker as well.
I used to struggle with this same problem until I realised that with careful application of a really sharp knife, some patience, a smooth block of wood and a steady hand, I could make any number of rib belts (4 or more) into a 3 rib. It's best if you use a 6 rib, then you get 2 for 1. I usually get an 8 rib since mine uses a 4 rib.
Now I am trying to find a power steering pump pulley that utilizes the ribbed belt vs the v-belt.
the wagon will start undressing itself once the supercharger kicks in.
And congrats on the truck. I have a 92 350 extended cab Silverado with 2 tone silver/black paint, 4/6 ST drop, ST sway bars, Edelbrock headers, full 2 1/2" true dual exhaust, AEM cold air intake, 20" Centerlines, 275/45-20 in the back (higher weight rating) and 275/40-20 in the front and rear air bags which are needed if you want to put anything in the bed once it's lowered. It's getting a bit beat, and I'm teetering on either spending a bunch of loot to restore it, or give up on it and sell it for what I can get. I need a tow vehicle for the wagon for when I go racing, and this thing does great.
Oh, and these are the exact flares I used on my car:
http://www.phase2motortrend.com/pj18fefl.html
There is no flex pipe in there at this point. I will be stiffening up all the mounts and we will see how it goes. Did this on a civic I had a long time ago and removed the flex pipe on it as well and after stiffening up the mounts I had very very little movement in the motor with no issues for years, but I am probably going to add one just to be safe after I get all the crap worked out.
I had an old 76 Chevy stepside when I was a teen but with all the military moves I made as a kid it eventually was sold. When I saw this truck it was time to get back into it and build something with my little girl.
Why would flex in the exhuast be so important?
And no I am not going for that crap rusted hood look, the hood will be painted soon.
Keep going with it Rage
I just threw up in my mouth a little
Thanks, and I have the original JRSC belt but it is too short since I am also running the DOHC ZC adapter plate on mine.
Yeah I figured it'd be pretty gross. I like the original front ends with a lip.
Just finished the thread. AmAzInG!
Plus, I always was an ass man! By the way, do you happen to still have the MIM 1900's laying around by chance? 8)
Here is my 1990 Chevy C1500 I finished up a couple of months ago. Still a beater but fully rebuilt motor, 4-6 inch drop, underdrive pullies, rebuilt suspension system, complete new brake system with custom lines by me, helper spring air bag kit on the rear custom fit by me, new lower door panels, new rocker panels, new cab corners, new rear quarters, complete new exhaust system 3" all the way back, everything done in my little garage! Took nine months to finish but it is complete and running. My daughter LOVES IT!!
Picture of the engine bay when I picked it up. The guy I bought it from actually used JB WELD to glue the thermostat housing on. Lasted 30 seconds on the autobahn before every drop of fluid in the cooling system turned to steam!
After, powdercoated just about everything I could fit in my oven (in my garage of course).
Mitsubishi Dual Electric fan setup from an EVO (junkyard find for 10 bucks) fitted behind the grille to clean up the bay.
Rear bag setup I had to custom fit because the company that said it was supposed to fit was completely WRONG!
Hear it is in all its beat up glory.
Hopefully some new pics of the wagon to come SOON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Want to thank THATDOODLE for helping me out with some of the parts!!!!! Without him might still be looking at this thing sitting on top my wagon in the garage!