Actually, there are a couple updates. A few days ago I started mocking up the adapter plate using 1/4" mdf plywood. I have also included a couple pics of the d series flywheel on the b16.
Here I have started drilling the holes for the bolts
Cut off the excess bottom material
What it looks like on with the flywheel
I have a little more done, but haven't taken pics yet. Once I get the spacing right on the flywheel then I'll pretty much be ready to make a metal one of these adapters. The adapter plate itself is 1/2" thick, and it's looking like the spacer for the flywheel is going to be around the 3/8" range. Still have a little more measuring to do.
looking good there bro. i would love to see this done and in the engine bay. just wondering if there will be a clearance issues in the driver side frame. but at any rate, i cant wait.
Ya, I'm a little worried about clearance issues too. I'm hoping the d series tranny is a little smaller and will give me the little bit of extra clearance I need. Might go get the couple bolts and need and lift it into my crx today. We'll see.
Ya, I'm a little worried about clearance issues too. I'm hoping the d series tranny is a little smaller and will give me the little bit of extra clearance I need. Might go get the couple bolts and need and lift it into my crx today. We'll see.
cant wait to see it. crossing fingers on the clearance issue. more power to you.
Well, guys, got some bad news. I lifted the motor into my rex the other day and found some pretty big clearance issues. The motor sits 1.25 inches too far to the left side of the car. There is no way to get the alternator to fit in that tight of a spot, and I'm not 100% sure of the crank pully will work that close either. I have thought of a few other ideas, but it'll be a while before I'll be able to test them. First off, the motor mount on that side needs to be completely custom made so it's shorter as well as a custom alternator bracket for the front of the motor (most likely where the a/c pump is located) for clearance issues. I believe that there is enough room to run a single belt crank pulley (lightened with just alternator belt). So with this setup there would be no power steering or a/c. I did have to space the transmission down about 3/4" so the motor sat level with the left motor mount. No real biggie on that part. I was originally wanting to do this so I could have a b series motor w/ a/c in my wagon, but the way it's looking the a/c wouldn't be able to stay. Kinda blew my motivation a little. But don't worry, i'm still working on other idea for the alternator in my head. I've got some pics of the motor in the rex I'll try to get up asap.
thats sad to hear bro. is there a way to move the engine just a little to the right? or you could do away with the adapter plate? im just doing some imagining.
I think it is possible to do it without the adapter plate, but it would be a lot of modification to the b series directly. I did think about moving the tranny about a 1/2 inch to the right side of the car, but then I have to worry about the axles and the rear driveline lining up correctly. I think I might try to fab up a new left motor mount and see how the crank pulley fits and then worry about the alternator plate.
i was hoping this would work because the only options are either h/f to d kits, or try to find a wrecked awd crv setup with i seen works but is expensive ive seen both b series crv swap and ive seen k24 crx awd swap both are hella expensive
Years ago we did a 1994 GSR engine mounted to a 1986 Civic transmission. Reason being we already had a Mugen LSD in the transmission, and we didn't want to drop the coin on a new LSD.
The bellhousing of the 86 transmission was machined 1/2" off the block interface, and we welded a 1/2 plate to the tranny bellhousing. The appropriate holes were drilled here and there for it to bolt to 'the GSR block. This eliminated that extra 1/2" of metal/drivetrain width. We also welded shut 4 of the 6 holes in our '86 flywheel, and then drilled 6 new holes (total of 8 ) for it to bolt to the 94 GSR crank. It was so long ago (probably 12-13 years) that now I can't remember where we went with the starter, but I don't recall any big problems. We did have a lot of leeway on the mounting though, as we had tube framed the front half of the 86 Civic that we put it in.
When I did the awd b-swap, I had to clearance the framerail on the passenger side about an inch to get the CRV tranny to fit in. Is that an option for you?
I wanted at least one mount in a stock position, so I made everything work with the drivers side mount stock so I knew I had a good starting point and modded from there.
Shenrie, yes, that would work, except I'd have to do it to the left motor mount. I don't think there would need to be much cutting for the crank pulley, but the alternator would need some cut out so it would clear. So it is possible. I was just hoping for more of a bolt in kit I could make for everybody. I'm still doing some more research, so we'll see what happens. That's a good idea. I may do that some day.
almost every time i put a b motor in to an ee or ef we always beat that side in about an in with a ball pein hammer
it doesnt compromise the strength of the frame as much as cutting and its easy, and you cant notice it once the motors in onless your looking hard
This will need to be cut to fit in the wagon. The regular mounting of the b series in an ee/ef requires the hammering of it, the way I have this mounted it sits a little over an inch further left than that, so you can't just hammer it.
The adapter plate is about a 1/2 inch thick cause I have to have bolts going both directions. I don't think that it would be possible to make it any thinner and still be strong enough to hold the motor and tranny together.
right i am not sure but i think you have some play in the cv joints as long as your car isnt lowered that much but ya it looks like theres some cutting in your future
I've pretty much scrapped the b2d series swap. Way too much cutting and fabricating for me. I'm not that willing to start cutting up my precious RT4WD. But it is possible if you are willing to cut up the left side frame, build a custom left motor mount, custom adaptor plate and custom plate for the left axle.
The flywheel was in no way a big issue. The motor fitment in the engine bay was the big one. The b series block is wider than a d series by almost 2 inches so clearance on the timing belt side is practically impossible without cutting out that side of the cars frame.
I've pretty much scrapped the b2d series swap. Way too much cutting and fabricating for me. I'm not that willing to start cutting up my precious RT4WD. But it is possible if you are willing to cut up the left side frame, build a custom left motor mount, custom adaptor plate and custom plate for the left axle.
Comments
thanks
wagon.......................4ever......................
Here I have started drilling the holes for the bolts
Cut off the excess bottom material
What it looks like on with the flywheel
I have a little more done, but haven't taken pics yet. Once I get the spacing right on the flywheel then I'll pretty much be ready to make a metal one of these adapters. The adapter plate itself is 1/2" thick, and it's looking like the spacer for the flywheel is going to be around the 3/8" range. Still have a little more measuring to do.
thanks you and more power.
wagon...........4ever...............
cant wait to see it. crossing fingers on the clearance issue. more power to you.
wagon..........................4ever.......................
anyways keep it up bro.
thanks for sharing.
wagon...................................4ever................................
The bellhousing of the 86 transmission was machined 1/2" off the block interface, and we welded a 1/2 plate to the tranny bellhousing. The appropriate holes were drilled here and there for it to bolt to 'the GSR block. This eliminated that extra 1/2" of metal/drivetrain width. We also welded shut 4 of the 6 holes in our '86 flywheel, and then drilled 6 new holes (total of 8 ) for it to bolt to the 94 GSR crank. It was so long ago (probably 12-13 years) that now I can't remember where we went with the starter, but I don't recall any big problems. We did have a lot of leeway on the mounting though, as we had tube framed the front half of the 86 Civic that we put it in.
Man, I wish I still had those pictures.
I wanted at least one mount in a stock position, so I made everything work with the drivers side mount stock so I knew I had a good starting point and modded from there.
it doesnt compromise the strength of the frame as much as cutting and its easy, and you cant notice it once the motors in onless your looking hard
What if you filled the flywheel holes that are not being used and and then drilled out new ones that would match the crank?