*SOLVED* studdering/surging at cruising speeds

the wagon is studdering/surging while trying to maintain a constant speed. it's small but annoying. any ideas? the only ECU code i am getting is CEL 20. Electric Load Detector. so far i'm thinking TPS sensor or Dizzy.


thanks gang.

*solved*

turned out to be a broken TPS wire. not sure why it threw an o2 code as well. codes cleared, car runs like a freaking champ.

Comments

  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    90blkcrx wrote:
    Code 20 - Electric Load Detector

    First make sure you have a good battery....


    Open the Main Fuse box lid (Right side shock tower).
    Disconnect the 3 point connector, from the ELD unit. (Follow the harraness that runs through the box).
    With the ignition switch ON, there should be battery voltage between the BLK/YEL(+) and BLK(-) terminals.

    If there is no voltage, check for:

    Blown No. 14 (10A) fuse in the dash fuse box.
    An open in the BLK/YEL(+) wire between the dash fuse box and the main fuse box.
    Pour ground (G201)
    If there is voltage then goto the next step.....

    Check for voltage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON. There should
    be approximately 5V.

    If the voltage(5V) is not specified, check the alternator control system.
    If the voltage is as specified then goto next step.....

    Connect the 3 - Point Connector to the ELD unit.

    Check for volatage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground, with the ignition switch ON and turn on the
    headlight low beam's.

    There should be approximately 2V.

    If the voltage(2V) is not specified, replace the main fuse box (ELD unit is not available separately)
    If the voltage is as specified above, ELD unit is OK.

    Have you tried this yet? Sounds like a good place to start if you have checked all terminals and earths.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    If when you floor it, the stumble goes away, I'm going with O2 sensor. It can fail, or get lazy without throwing a code.
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    when i floor it, completely normal. it has a newish o2 sensor, i'll check the connections. i do think you may be onto something there. i really don't think it's the code 20 that's giving me issues. i know i know, solve it before any real troubleshooting can happen. i wish i had a friggin volt meter.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Is that car from the US? Canadian cars didn't have ELDs. If its a Canadian car, you must have swapped a new ECU into it (US ECU by chance?). Then again, the Wagons could be sufficiently different that they do actually have an ELD. If it's a US car or a Canadian car with a US ECU in it, put a Canadian ECU in it - ELD problem gone!
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    well this is the first time i've heard .cdn models didn't have the ELD. to the best of my knowledge, this is an .cdm car with a .cdm computer. but if what you say is true, then it must be a .usdm ECU. i don't recall any .usdm cars in my wrecking yard. all the speedo's are in km.

    after doing some searching on honda-tech it seems that the answer is quite probably my o2 sensor. it was replaced last year with a 'universal' sensor. they require to splice the wires and it is frequent for that to cause problems. i guess they also make another one that uses a factory plug. also frequent for it to NOT throw a CEL. i'll get around to it when i get really annoyed.
  • skinnyskinny Senior Wagonist
    Only the JDM cars have the ELD as far as I know
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    so today the CEL came on. 1 and 7. o2 and TPS. strange that they would both come on at once. maybe they both need replacing. ugh. i wish i had an angle grinder to get those TPS rivets out. what size bolt goes in there again? and 8mm?
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Pretty sure its an M5, might be an M6. You can use a hacksaw to make a slot in the screw, and then unthread it with a slot screwdriver. They're not rivets, they're screws with a frangible head.
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    ahhh that's right. it's been about 5 years since i've done a TPS and i had forgotten what was involved.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    you don't really need to cut a slot, you can just use a straight-blade screwdriver and tap them loose- kinda like picking out a broken bolt. The little screws are really soft stuff, and yes,they're M5. Water bottle cage bolts from a bicycle work perfectly.
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    so here's the thing that's happening now. the car runs great. no more hesitation/studdering. engine light is on. throwing o2, TPS, and ELD. before when throwing just ELD it ran like crap.

    my guess is now the ECU has changed it's fuel maps to compensate for a completely toasted o2. before the sensor was sending faulty information. now the sensor is completely shot, possible for the ecu to go to a 'default' map?

    i'll see if my MPG are terrible or not. if not, i'm leaving it alone.
  • i would call rudolf
    and take the sledge...

    : )
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    Try to reset the computer, remove the Hazard fuse form the fuse box on the passenger side fender in the engine bay. See if it clears some codes and maybe get you back on track. It might of just been a little "hiccup" that gave those CEL's. Maybe its all sorted now. Thats usually what they do at the stealerships, reset the ECU and drive the car to see if the CEL's come back. If no CEL's come back it probably means repairs down the road but you might be alright for a while longer.
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    found a broken wire going to the TPS. got lucky, wasn't really looking for it but saw it out of the corner of my eye. fixed it, reset ECU and codes are clear. ELD remains. not sure why the TPS would throw a code for the o2 sensor as well. haven't driven it yet so i don't know if the studdering is gone. keep you updated.
  • oh, c'mon man, you're killing me...

    if we let you hit the pinata
    we'll starve to death...
    : )
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