Link for 2wd to AWD conversion
stampern
Senior Wagonist
Guys,
A friend of mine has to civic wagons. One is 2wd and the other is awd. The awd is shot, looks like somebody took a baseball bat to it, but the awd system and motor are all good. He is going to sell me both of them for $1000. Both are 88-91, didn't really check the years exactly. But they aren't the older style (yuck. he he) I'm wanting to swap all the awd stuff over to the 2wd chassis cause it will be easier than trying to straighten out the body and stuff. Thought about trying to swap doors and stuff, but it's also been like backed into a pole, so it's pretty much not repairable. Curious to see if anybody has any write ups or howto's on converting 2wd to awd. I tried searching, but came up with a bunch of stuff that wasn't what I was looking for. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
A friend of mine has to civic wagons. One is 2wd and the other is awd. The awd is shot, looks like somebody took a baseball bat to it, but the awd system and motor are all good. He is going to sell me both of them for $1000. Both are 88-91, didn't really check the years exactly. But they aren't the older style (yuck. he he) I'm wanting to swap all the awd stuff over to the 2wd chassis cause it will be easier than trying to straighten out the body and stuff. Thought about trying to swap doors and stuff, but it's also been like backed into a pole, so it's pretty much not repairable. Curious to see if anybody has any write ups or howto's on converting 2wd to awd. I tried searching, but came up with a bunch of stuff that wasn't what I was looking for. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Comments
I think the rear suspension is the same between FWD and RT4WD. Wagon rear suspension in general is different than other Civics/CRXs, but I think all wagons share the same thing.
You also need to:
Change the shifter
Swap the rear crossmember
Attach the center bearing support for the driveshaft/viscous coupling that is welded to the unibody
Swap rear trailing arms
Figure out a way to attach the 2 front bolts that hold the front mount for the rear diff
That's all thats coming to mind right now as I sit here typing. I'm more or less doing this exact thing (except for the center driveshaft bearing).
No need to weld .The only difference is the mount it self.
THe 4WD CRX is on this site.
Read more & slower.One of the earlier wagoneers did the swap.1 of the probs was a few of the bolt holes weren't tapped,you'll need to cut(I meant seal) a hole for the shifter&maybe open up a hole for the cable shifter in the firewall.
Other things u may want to swap over:BIgger frt.brakes,the better engine & ECU,hood insulator,maybe the spare,maybe the instrument pod(higher tach rpm?),drum brakes(for spares) & of course the 4WD plagueon the strg.whl.
For other things that u may need to swap over are listed here:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=595
What do you mean exactly? The difference is the part that is spot welded to the unibody, as well as the mount with the rubber in it that bolts to the transmission.
This piece has the bolt holes about 1" higher on the 4WD chassis than the 2WD one.
2WD:
4WD:
LOL not by a long shot...
My driveshaft will be one piece. The output of the transmission will only be going to 1 pair of wheels.
here is a good link for the conversion
i know the USDM RT4wd and DX had the same rear member
They're not the same. The mounting points for the diff rear stabilizer mount are not there on the 2WD crossmember. The 4WD has some threaded bolt holes for the screws that hold the mount. Overall, their shape is the same though, and I can see that if you weren't specifically looking for all this, you could have missed it.
The 2WD chassis also does not have the threaded holes for the rear diff front mount/mini crossmember. The 4WD has extra metal in the stampings/layers of steel back there, as well as the threaded inserts for the mount.
I'm going through all this right now to mount up the rear diff. I've dissected a section of unibody that came from a 4WD chassis to see exactly how all this goes together, and to make sure I make my chassis strong enough to handle the setup that I have planned.
That's the way the INTRAC one was - like tubing instead of squashed metal.
Maybe I'm mistaking it for my CRV's subframe, I can't quite remember but I swear I've seen the tubing style on a 2wd.
:oops: