DA knuckles w/big(ger) brake install
![noahrexion](https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0ae4680fa91e1a6c60586e243a12333d/?default=https%3A%2F%2Fvanillicon.com%2F4f8b3ff57f94c4b1126bb7c5729827db_200.png&rating=g&size=200)
Instead of buying new pads/rotors which I needed; I opted to pick up some complete DA knuckles at the junkyard about 2 weeks back. The ones I chose had fresh pads (oem
) and spec'd rotors so I snagged the whole gig. I also pulled a 15/16 master cylinder from an older accord which has the EXACT same line up for brake lines (this instead of the teg' non-abs one since there are almost all tegs seem to be LS and GS); more on that install later though. I got both complete setups for $80 (with master cylinder) which is an absolute steal; I would say the pads have about 70% left on them which is totally fine with me. I cleaned everything up and repacked the ball joints and put on fresh(er) boots before the install.
Today is the DA knuckles/DA brake upgrade. Though they weigh a few more pounds than our brakes I definitely think the increased brake size will outweigh the added unsprung weight; plus I don't roll heavy ass wheels like most of you anyway (KISS with 14" DA GS-R wheels). I also installed my front Tokico HPs to complete my suspension setup (all DC componentry).
Both DA knucks
![556.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/556.jpg)
RT4WD (left) vs. DA (right): I didn't measure specifically but I think the tegs were like 10.4" or so.
![557.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/557.jpg)
The rotors are most definitely thicker and have larger venting.
![558.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/558.jpg)
![559.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/559.jpg)
Piston is a tiny bit larger (sorry no direct pic), caliper is longer and wider too. teg left, civic right. Notice the length from the center of bearing to the center of the toe arm tab (teg longer).
![560.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/560.jpg)
![561.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/561.jpg)
![562.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/562.jpg)
![563.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/563.jpg)
This is the only mod I had to do and I didn't even have to really. This is 1/2 ABS sensor tabs on the DA knuckle. When the suspension was totally drooping/unloaded and the knuckle was hanging the clearance between this tab and my spring was about 2mm. I didn't like that so I took off another 2mm from the tab. Stock suspension may be different.
![564.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/564.jpg)
Here they are in all their glory.
![565.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/565.jpg)
![566.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/566.jpg)
And this is why 14"+ wheels are required.
![567.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/567.jpg)
Perfect brake line match from the DC to EE (that would also include EG and DA as well; all will work). I did NOT use the DA upper control arms as they are a tad longer (more + camber) and I liked my camber where it was prior to install. I will do an alignment on it manana to see where I am at. I haven't driven it yet as I forgot to buy brake fluid so I will finish the bleed/alignment tomorrow afternoon. I also opted NOT to install the master cylinder yet as I want to see how it feels with the stock unit first (7/8). The knuckles definitely through off the toe visibly and I am not sure about the caster/camber yet. I have no inclination that I cannot fix the alignment in 1 hour of my time tomorrow (yes I have the equip at home).
I love my car
this thing is starting to turn into a Integra/Civic Hybrid. Hope this sparks some interest; very easy install.
![;) ;)](https://civicwagon.com/resources/emoji/wink.png)
Today is the DA knuckles/DA brake upgrade. Though they weigh a few more pounds than our brakes I definitely think the increased brake size will outweigh the added unsprung weight; plus I don't roll heavy ass wheels like most of you anyway (KISS with 14" DA GS-R wheels). I also installed my front Tokico HPs to complete my suspension setup (all DC componentry).
Both DA knucks
![556.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/556.jpg)
RT4WD (left) vs. DA (right): I didn't measure specifically but I think the tegs were like 10.4" or so.
![557.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/557.jpg)
The rotors are most definitely thicker and have larger venting.
![558.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/558.jpg)
![559.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/559.jpg)
Piston is a tiny bit larger (sorry no direct pic), caliper is longer and wider too. teg left, civic right. Notice the length from the center of bearing to the center of the toe arm tab (teg longer).
![560.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/560.jpg)
![561.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/561.jpg)
![562.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/562.jpg)
![563.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/563.jpg)
This is the only mod I had to do and I didn't even have to really. This is 1/2 ABS sensor tabs on the DA knuckle. When the suspension was totally drooping/unloaded and the knuckle was hanging the clearance between this tab and my spring was about 2mm. I didn't like that so I took off another 2mm from the tab. Stock suspension may be different.
![564.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/564.jpg)
Here they are in all their glory.
![565.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/565.jpg)
![566.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/566.jpg)
And this is why 14"+ wheels are required.
![567.jpg](https://www.civicwagon.com/images/imported/2009/03/567.jpg)
Perfect brake line match from the DC to EE (that would also include EG and DA as well; all will work). I did NOT use the DA upper control arms as they are a tad longer (more + camber) and I liked my camber where it was prior to install. I will do an alignment on it manana to see where I am at. I haven't driven it yet as I forgot to buy brake fluid so I will finish the bleed/alignment tomorrow afternoon. I also opted NOT to install the master cylinder yet as I want to see how it feels with the stock unit first (7/8). The knuckles definitely through off the toe visibly and I am not sure about the caster/camber yet. I have no inclination that I cannot fix the alignment in 1 hour of my time tomorrow (yes I have the equip at home).
I love my car
![:D :D](https://civicwagon.com/resources/emoji/lol.png)
Comments
Skinny, as you will notice my sig shows my rides (year too!)
Slammed, I'm all over those rack pics be on it soon
Brake booster? Not needed for this. If one was to install rear discs and maybe larger fronts than perhaps. I do not think the booster becomes an issue for a while, nor do I the prop valve with such a small increase. The master cylinder isn't even needed really; its more of a feel thing (will provide more positive feedback and won't be as "touchy", on/off with a proper MC).
thats why i ask, he also changed the prop. valve and master cyl.
thanks
Another thing is if you spend a lot of time driving really hard you might wanna think about putting the dust shields back on. Those not only keep dirt and stuff off the rotors, they help keep heat away from the axle joints. I removed mine right before a lapping day in Spokane and boiled over the left front axle from hard braking and the fucking boot popped and spewed grease all over my rotor going strong into a right hand corner. It about took me into the infield which is really not a good thing in Spokane, unless you enjoy trying to slide over lava rock at speed. Just a heads up if you ever take your car to a track. More than likley not an issue if you dont.
What was the total cost of the whole set up? what parts did you go out and buy?
wagon........ever..................
Although all this was not initially the reason I removed them. They were heavily damaged and quite unsightly.
I would absolutely recommend to anyone doing this to really check out the wheel bearing (most expensive replacement if something in the hub needed replaced) and of course the ball joints/no slight bends or cracks and GOOD brakes. Again, this was not my intention to buy these things, it just turned out a better financial deal to me. When I bought my car the one thing I didn't do was buy brakes for it (long project otherwise); I had planned on new pads/rotors for about 4-5 months now. Finally, after mountain driving/towing and generally using the thing, I got to the point where I was ready to buy some. I was at the junkyard and saw a really really clean/well taken care of DA that had (to me) had the suspension damaged in any way nor the axles removed in quite some time; if ever. The ball joints looked (hard to tell fully until you get them home) good and most importantly, the brake rotors and pads were OEM and they pads had 70-80% life in them: that sold me. I bought all this, a 15/16 Accord brake MC and some other misc junk for $83 at a Denver pull a part yard. I spent a couple hours cleaning and going through, relubing, respraying, scrubbing...etc and making them look how they do. Everything was reused. I didn't buy ANY additional parts at all. I made the calipers look new (they were in great shape to being with) and I gave my own sanding to the rotors/pads.
So far I haven't put the 15/16 BMC in yet as I want to see if I even care (don't think I will as of this point). The ~1" increase and larger pad are a mere side effect; the way I see it is I got myself my new front brakes for $83 or so.
Also someone asked about the alignment: my camber was changed no more than .2* on either side; that could have happened if I removed the stock one and reinstalled it: so no, camber was not an issue for my car. I did a really quick alignment check the other day and set my toe back to zero. The blurb in one of the pics above about the tie rod end arm on the DA knuckle extends out differently than the civic. This through my tow out about 3/16" on both sides. These are all done via my home measurements with my SPC setup and I've been doing alignments for years.
In that time I put DA spindles, rotors, calipers, master cylinder, and brake booster.
Very nice brakes!!! I was kinda afraid that they may be kinda touchy; not at all. They're super smooth but if you really get into the pedal they bring you to a stop quick!
Highly recomend the upgrade.
I used the 1" abs booster and master cylinder. All the info i had found said that i would have to replace the fitting on the brake line furthur back (on the master cylinder). I was able to order a small adapter piece from a local hydraulics store.
Are you able to post your caster and camber measurements? Thanks!
i have a lifetime allignment on my car so getting it retuned wouldnt be a issue if its a reasonable change..
Im looking to do this instead of replacing my wheel bearing and ball joint on my currrent setup
also im not to thrilled with my current ghetto itr brake setup either
If it gets a bit warmer i'll try and put my new tie rod ends on (the bolts on mine were messed up) and get it close..
But yes you will need an alignment if you do the DA brake swap. I just hope you live close to where you get your alignments done, i drove about 70 miles overall yesterday trying to get my car aligned and.. Well, it was a feeling of being near death all the time.
yessir! Just whats pictured in the OP's first post.
Also be really careful when driving with the toe as far out as its going to be. Seriously my car was all over the road.
It is correctable yes.
sorry for the hassle!
I got back from les schwabs and they gave me the readout on what my specs were/are. (granted this is after i had put my teg spindles on) But i'm running 5.1 degrees of camber up front and 5.6 in back, toe was set to 0 in front, and about .08 or something like that in back.
I drove around for maybe 120 miles with the toe anywhere between 3 and 1.4 degrees, which was scary. and probably severely decreased the amount of miles i'll be able to drive on those tires but whatever.