Auto tranny leak - what to do?
White&Nerdy
Senior Wagonist
When I first got the car last March, it had a slow transmission fluid leak. As I've mentioned elsewhere, sometimes it's a bit slow to go into reverse when cold, but otherwise as long as I keep the fluid topped off it runs fine. Over the summer, the tranny stopped leaking at all. But over the past few months it's begun dripping again. This morning, my gf told me there's a larger red stain on the new snow under where I park than she's seen before, which means my leak is getting worse. It also had trouble upshifting when it was cold this morning, which it's never done to me before. Shifted fine once it warmed up but I'm definitely checking the fluid level again when I get home (don't have fluid or my super extra long funnel with me).
I'm looking for more info about my options. Am I looking at replacing my tranny? Or is it possible for a hack mechanic like me to fix the leak myself? Where are likely places for it to be leaking from? I've tried looking for the source of the leak but haven't been able to find it. (Maybe now that it's leaking more it'll give the source away)...
I hate automatics - not so much for the way they shift as their unreliability. The only reason I got one is the rest of the car was in such good shape. If it's going to be a pricey repair I may have to compare that cost to the cost of replacing the car, and not necessarily with another RT4WD wagon...
I'm looking for more info about my options. Am I looking at replacing my tranny? Or is it possible for a hack mechanic like me to fix the leak myself? Where are likely places for it to be leaking from? I've tried looking for the source of the leak but haven't been able to find it. (Maybe now that it's leaking more it'll give the source away)...
I hate automatics - not so much for the way they shift as their unreliability. The only reason I got one is the rest of the car was in such good shape. If it's going to be a pricey repair I may have to compare that cost to the cost of replacing the car, and not necessarily with another RT4WD wagon...
Comments
Further, I bet so long as you find the donor car (there are 3 in my local junkyard now) that you could have everything for a reasonable price. Perhaps start your "search" sooner than later so if it takes you 2 months to gather everything then you will still have a drivable car up to that point.
I hate autos for the exact reason you do (at least on older vehicles), I would never consider putting money/time into that thing when you could put that towards a proper 6spd swap. Can you imagine the new found that you'd have? 8)
I hadn't considered the possiblity of swapping for a standard, though. It would be more work than simply replacing an auto with an auto. But the biggest negative to my car has always been that it isn't a standard. Could be an excuse to "fix" that.
Now, from reading around the forum, I understand these manual RT4WD transmissions are pretty rare, and possibly expensive too. Autos seem to be more common, actually. I've read that it would be cheaper and easier to just buy a manual RT4WD wagon. I could be wrong.
I have no idea what junkyard parts I may be able to scam locally, since I haven't found junkyards that have RT4WD wagons. They've mostly rusted away by now in most cases here in salt country. At minimum, I'd need a trans, flywheel, and clutch and brake pedals from a manual car. I'd go for a new clutch kit, cable, etc. I know my auto ECU will work with a standard - I'll just have those LOW and S4 lights that won't do anything. Am I missing anything here? Same axles, right?
Dreaming aside, I'd prefer to keep the auto going for as long as possible - either until I can get the manual swap, a manual car, or until my current car rusts out from under me (it's already on its way ). So, my original questions on seals and such still apply. Is there any kind of "stop leak" additive like for cooling systems or power steering? Or should this stuff be avoided like the plague?
Where you see the oil spot on the ground should give you a idea of what section the leaks coming from.Otherwise goto the car wash & clean off as much of the tranny as possible.Now if there's a leak .You can track it to the source.
I'd avoid the tranny stop leaks.Sometimes they block passages.
Good ideas. My car could use a wash anyway. I think after work Saturday I'll get it washed (especially the underside of the tranny), then park it somewhere in the driveway I haven't parked it lately. That way, Sunday I can jack it up and look around without moving it from where the telltale drips will be. Thanks!
Then I'll just have to figure out what to DO about the drips...
You can go faster you just need to change gears bloody quick. I think that's why i've fucked two ISBs (not on wagons). :P
It's definitely an option I'll consider if there is no cheap and easy fix. Admittedly, that and rust repair are all my car really needs to be "perfect" - for me, at least.
Good thing I've won ice racing trophies in a Miata before - I think I'm going to need the practice. Noahrexion, I have not forgotten about your offer and will weigh it among the other options...
I did pull the skidplate off the tranny, and that allowed me to see the entire path the leaking fluid was taking. It led all the way back to where the passenger axle attaches. Could it be as simple as not having pushed the axle in far enough when I replaced it? Or is there some seal inside that's deteriorated and is allowing the leakage? It was at this point that the water torture got the better of me and I had to stop. I'm going to let it finish melting and get back to it probably Saturday when I'm off work next. There's a little snow in the forecast for Friday but I'll either slog through in the Miata or take my gf's Highlander to work.
My next step, obviously, will be to pull and reseat the axle into the transmission. If I'm lucky, that, alone, may solve the problem. Then I can figure out a flaky connection in some turn signal wiring, give my rusty rear quarter panels a very quick respray, and then try to sneak this beast through inspection. But it ain't over till it's over...
I'm feeling your pain with the torture. Been there done that; now I have a garage
Though maybe I should just go buy that axle seal and put it on before reassembling. There's a small tear in one of the flappy bits - nothing major, but if it's that cheap and I already have access, I might as well replace it. Thanks for mentioning it!
I would definitely replace that seal, though I doubt that that is causing a stream of fluid.
NOTE: be careful of putting the seal in too deep. Flush to the outside is good- there's no shoulder inside to stop you from driving the seal in against the diff. carrier. (this is my experience with 2wds)
edit: no, the seal wouldn't cause a "stream" of fluid, not sitting still, anyway.
Neutral - duh, I hadn't thought of that. Guess I should jack up the rear so those wheels can turn freely, too, eh?
Of course I'm having trouble GETTING the correct seal from local auto parts stores again. Grr!!! Need to keep looking, though it'll be tough with my work sched the next couple of days.
Oh well - I just have to go drive the Miata to work now.
You don't have to jack up the rear. So long as you are in nuetral and the wheels are up you can freely rotate the other side back and forth enough to slide her in (ahhh, you are familiar with this technique ).
Also, my miata with my old Michellin snows on it was unstoppable in anything < 7-8" of snow.
Ah, so I can get enough rotation in the front to make it work without engaging the rear. Cool, thanks!
I've got a trophy or two earned with my previous Miata, including a couple of ice racing trophies. I know what it'll do in the snow. :twisted: And I didn't have studded tires then, so this one will be even better!
Main problem now is getting the old seal OFF. It's not coming out except in tiny bits and piece. Any tricks?
I want to see your tranny fixed, rust fixed and w/e else you had plans for done! Oh and some ice racing footage anyway; remember you can always run the mx5 with your snow tires!
where is the crisco ...
:shock:
I want the wagon fixed too. It's pretty much "finished," as in at the state of tune and tweakage I want, so it would be a shame to ditch it right now. And if the problem's as simple as a seal there's no way I'll ditch it over that.
That, and wagodizzle's EDM headlights just arrived yesterday - it would be a shame not to put them to use! (Though granted, my gf would LOVE for them to go on her CRX instead... Not gonna happen though. :twisted: )
And the Miata is ice racing tomorrow whether the wagon goes or not. My gf is without her 4yo this weekend and wants some experience in the car she's going to autox this year. All she knows is FWD Hondas, with a couple of events in my Saturn and a Prius. RWD is all new to her and she's scared of it. So I need to co-drive the Miata and show her the joy of power slides - which a Miata on ice can do as well as a Camaro. 8)
Thus recommenced the quest to find a damn seal that would work. (Wasn't so bad, actually - it's almost 50F here, so I was out cruising in the Miata with the top down! 8) ) In the end, my quest was successful. Now that I had the old seal off the car, we were able to stare and compare, and finally found a source for the correct part. Just got home. Having lunch before I get grubby, and then it's time to reassemble - and clean up the massive amounts of dirt that have caked on in the area where leaking transmission fluid has sprayed.
But at least the car's fixed. The seal seems to have been the problem.
I had to replace my passenger side axle in my 2wd. I put a new seal in the transmission while I was at it. Two weeks later it's leaking. I get another seal and this time I put it in flush with a little axle grease on the lip. It leaked within a few days. I pulled the axle and seal a third time. This time I put some RTV on the OD of the seal before installation. The leak appears to be CURED! In the end, I got pretty good at pulling the axle!