Forgive me if i sounded like a dick. Didn't mean to, nor did I mean to accuse you of being a noob. I recognize your username from around the forum and I know you know your stuff.
I didn't pick up on the obd 1 / obd 0 difference. I really didn't think there was a difference mechanically, just electronics.
Please paste Bam's response, I'm curious.
I was kinda going on a post on page one that said
"Actually any D-series motor (besides the 86-89 Integra because of the drivers side motor mount) will work. Some motors would require DPFI to MPFI conversion. Some motors would require OBD0-OBD1/2 conversion. Some motors will not have the mounting holes drilled and/or tapped for the intermediate shaft that the RT4wd's use, in that case you will have to run unequal length half-shafts..."
In fact, you CAN'T run unequal-length shafts with the RT trans because there isn't enough room for the inner joint of the driver side axle. You gotta make the intermediate shaft work. There's a post near the bottom of page 3 where someone fabricated a custom mount for it that mounts into the alternator bracket mounting points or something. Not sure if they are gonna make any more and sell them or what.
No worries man, its been a long day, im irritable.
Bam says this is what you do for a 92 SOHC ZC (non-vtec) in a RT4WD wagon
Bam -
You can use your current harness and ECU if you :
1) use the OBD0 injectors
2) repin the harness for the OBD1 distributor, or use your old distributor
3) extend or relocate fan switch plug on harness to reach thermostat housing
4) use the 1-wire oxygen sensor
If you choose to convert:
You'll need the ECU and the harness (only for plugs and stuff), and an OBD1 jumper (unless you're a wiring guru and hardwire the OBD1 plugs onto your car harness underdash)
1) switch the OBD1 injector plugs onto your harness and delete the resistor box.
2) repin the harness for OBD1 distributor
3) extend or relocate fan switch plug on harness to reach thermostat housing
4) change the ECU, then run the 4 wires for the OBD1 oxygen sensor from the ECU out to the sensor
Depending on what Intake manifold you use, and the position of the IAT sensor, you may have to extend those wires as well. My Z6 mani had the IAT on the back, vs the A6 was originally on the side. needed about 6-8 inches of wires added.
MAP sensor plug wouldn't reach (i used the MAP on the throttle body instead of the firewall). I didn't have to re-wire it, just unwrap the wire loom a little bit and run them straight across over the intake pipe, instead of along the firewall.
Converting to OBD-1 was the easiest part of my swap, though NOT cheap! I ordered a conversion kit from Rywire. It was about $200 with shipping, and they give you jumper harnesses for ECU, distributor plugs, and you get the extra sub-harness for 4-wire o2 and VTEC plugs, if you need them. Everything literally just plugged right in.
I already had the ECU, so that didn't factor into my cost.
Can't say for certain with your swap, but with mine, you don't have to switch to obd-1 injectors to run obd 1. You can just leave the resistor box and injector clips alone, and pop your obd-0 injectors into the manifold. Seemed like less work to me, and less wiring (chance for me to screw something up!)
Also, you gotta use the A6 crank pulley to run power steering because the 92-95 used a different style belt.
There are a lot of little things with this swap. If you haven't already, i suggest you read my swap thread, just so ya have an idea of what little things to look out for.
UPDATE: I'm assembling a d15b2 today, and I notice that the oil pan has the relief for the RT4wd transfer case. Now, this engine came out of an '88 2wd. I stated looking around and saw that another core d15b2 I have laying around also has the notched pan. Curious, I looked further: the pan on pebbles'wagon (d15b2) is notched, too.
The '88 Wagovan here does NOT have the relief...?
In short, of the four d15b2's in my yard right now, three have the oil pan that will clear the RT transfer housing.
Hey guys, I just got back from the junkyard and found a 1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe that has a d16y8. It also was completely prepped and ready for an intermediate shaft all the bosses were there they were all milled flat, drilled, tapped and counter bored. So I don't know what this means but I thought I would give you guys the heads up.
UPDATE: I'm assembling a d15b2 today, and I notice that the oil pan has the relief for the RT4wd transfer case. Now, this engine came out of an '88 2wd. I stated looking around and saw that another core d15b2 I have laying around also has the notched pan. Curious, I looked further: the pan on pebbles'wagon (d15b2) is notched, too.
The '88 Wagovan here does NOT have the relief...?
In short, of the four d15b2's in my yard right now, three have the oil pan that will clear the RT transfer housing.
YMMV
This is great to know! My oil pan received some damage from breaking a rod that I patched up with some JB Weld but if some of the d15 pans are notched for the transfer case then I should have a plethora to choose from at the local junkyards I might pick up one or two extras next time I go.
This is great to know! My oil pan received some damage from breaking a rod that I patched up with some JB Weld but if some of the d15 pans are notched for the transfer case then I should have a plethora to choose from at the local junkyards I might pick up one or two extras next time I go.
Might wanna grab the oil pickup too, just in case for some reason it turns out to be a different size. I think it should be the same... but... i can't remember exactly.
D16A9 from 93" will it work with a 91" d16a6 ecu ?
will I get to keep the A/C unit ?
and also, does it matter if the donner car was right side or left side wheel ?
as far as the engine, it shouldn't matter if the donor car was RHD or LHD, But I'm unsure about the 93 engine working with the 91 ecu. I'm not familiar with the D16A9. It wasn't sold here in the US.
93 engines ran on an OBD1 Computer system, and the 91 computer is OBD0. I don't know if you can easily modify the engine components to OBD0 parts, so you may have to convert your car to run OBD1. It's actually EXTREMELY easy, but it will cost you about 200 for the conversion harnesses, and then whatever the cost of the ECU you need to run the engine.
A/C shouldn't be a problem. If you already have A/C in your car, just reuse your Compressor and the mounting bracket. It SHOULD mount right up to the block. Again, I can't be certain because I don't know if the A9 is any different from other D-series engines.
thought I had posted this before:
but the 84-87 wagon 4wd will take the 86-89 integra D16A1
just my $.02
Yes they will fit ive got the same project in my garage right now. Everything will fit only thing i am not 100% is the drivers mount on the a1. But it appears that the one from the d15b1/2, ev, and ew will work. The only thing im looking for is how to convert the wiring. Only half of the wires on the 8 pin plug line up exactly. Ive been doing all the research i can but would love it if someone could point me in the right direction.
I believe i read somewhere that the zc will swap nicely into the 84-87 4wd wagons if you use the stock integra driver side mount. That might work for your A1
Anyone tried to put in the D15Z6? It is the ils, ECO engine.
Friend said that people put D16Z6 transmissions on D15, so in this case, 4WD tranny should also bolt to D15, since people put 4WD trannies on the D16Z6? Any ideas?
Just thought I would share. I have this z6 block on my shelf one day I figure I will get around to putting in my wagon but it will need some work first.
And here is what someone else has done to put an IS on an non-IS block:
Anyone have any idea what this would cost to have this done? Do you think it would be better to just find a motor with this done from the manufacturer?
hey guys, i have some question for you. Are here anyone who tried to swap A8 head to D16Z2 block? Here in czech republic is big problem to swap whole motor but head is acceptable
I Figure I'll add some pictures best I could soon, but I got my 89RT with a d15b7 block and A6 head. I looked under there today actually and it had bracket on there. I dont have any issues with noise or handling wise.
Hey guys! What about d17a2 engine ? There is tons for sale around me and they are newer than any other d series.
The annoyance you'll have to deal with to fit up a motor with little aftermarket support would not be worth it in my opinion. It's nice in theory, but in practice, a major headache.
Comments
And bam answered it somewhere else. I'll copy and paste his reply to his thread so others know as well.
I didn't pick up on the obd 1 / obd 0 difference. I really didn't think there was a difference mechanically, just electronics.
Please paste Bam's response, I'm curious.
I was kinda going on a post on page one that said
"Actually any D-series motor (besides the 86-89 Integra because of the drivers side motor mount) will work. Some motors would require DPFI to MPFI conversion. Some motors would require OBD0-OBD1/2 conversion. Some motors will not have the mounting holes drilled and/or tapped for the intermediate shaft that the RT4wd's use, in that case you will have to run unequal length half-shafts..."
In fact, you CAN'T run unequal-length shafts with the RT trans because there isn't enough room for the inner joint of the driver side axle. You gotta make the intermediate shaft work. There's a post near the bottom of page 3 where someone fabricated a custom mount for it that mounts into the alternator bracket mounting points or something. Not sure if they are gonna make any more and sell them or what.
Bam says this is what you do for a 92 SOHC ZC (non-vtec) in a RT4WD wagon
Bam -
You can use your current harness and ECU if you :
1) use the OBD0 injectors
2) repin the harness for the OBD1 distributor, or use your old distributor
3) extend or relocate fan switch plug on harness to reach thermostat housing
4) use the 1-wire oxygen sensor
If you choose to convert:
You'll need the ECU and the harness (only for plugs and stuff), and an OBD1 jumper (unless you're a wiring guru and hardwire the OBD1 plugs onto your car harness underdash)
1) switch the OBD1 injector plugs onto your harness and delete the resistor box.
2) repin the harness for OBD1 distributor
3) extend or relocate fan switch plug on harness to reach thermostat housing
4) change the ECU, then run the 4 wires for the OBD1 oxygen sensor from the ECU out to the sensor
I think that's all. OBD0 is cheaper and easier.
MAP sensor plug wouldn't reach (i used the MAP on the throttle body instead of the firewall). I didn't have to re-wire it, just unwrap the wire loom a little bit and run them straight across over the intake pipe, instead of along the firewall.
Converting to OBD-1 was the easiest part of my swap, though NOT cheap! I ordered a conversion kit from Rywire. It was about $200 with shipping, and they give you jumper harnesses for ECU, distributor plugs, and you get the extra sub-harness for 4-wire o2 and VTEC plugs, if you need them. Everything literally just plugged right in.
I already had the ECU, so that didn't factor into my cost.
Can't say for certain with your swap, but with mine, you don't have to switch to obd-1 injectors to run obd 1. You can just leave the resistor box and injector clips alone, and pop your obd-0 injectors into the manifold. Seemed like less work to me, and less wiring (chance for me to screw something up!)
Also, you gotta use the A6 crank pulley to run power steering because the 92-95 used a different style belt.
There are a lot of little things with this swap. If you haven't already, i suggest you read my swap thread, just so ya have an idea of what little things to look out for.
Have fun!
UPDATE: I'm assembling a d15b2 today, and I notice that the oil pan has the relief for the RT4wd transfer case. Now, this engine came out of an '88 2wd. I stated looking around and saw that another core d15b2 I have laying around also has the notched pan. Curious, I looked further: the pan on pebbles'wagon (d15b2) is notched, too.
The '88 Wagovan here does NOT have the relief...?
In short, of the four d15b2's in my yard right now, three have the oil pan that will clear the RT transfer housing.
YMMV
This is great to know! My oil pan received some damage from breaking a rod that I patched up with some JB Weld but if some of the d15 pans are notched for the transfer case then I should have a plethora to choose from at the local junkyards I might pick up one or two extras next time I go.
will I get to keep the A/C unit ?
and also, does it matter if the donner car was right side or left side wheel ?
thank you anyone for your help/info.
93 engines ran on an OBD1 Computer system, and the 91 computer is OBD0. I don't know if you can easily modify the engine components to OBD0 parts, so you may have to convert your car to run OBD1. It's actually EXTREMELY easy, but it will cost you about 200 for the conversion harnesses, and then whatever the cost of the ECU you need to run the engine.
A/C shouldn't be a problem. If you already have A/C in your car, just reuse your Compressor and the mounting bracket. It SHOULD mount right up to the block. Again, I can't be certain because I don't know if the A9 is any different from other D-series engines.
but the 84-87 wagon 4wd will take the 86-89 integra D16A1
just my $.02
Friend said that people put D16Z6 transmissions on D15, so in this case, 4WD tranny should also bolt to D15, since people put 4WD trannies on the D16Z6? Any ideas?
http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=53326&hilit=hush22
That's good stuff! I wonder if the RT shaft mounts the same?
Anyone have any idea what this would cost to have this done? Do you think it would be better to just find a motor with this done from the manufacturer?
Thanks
The annoyance you'll have to deal with to fit up a motor with little aftermarket support would not be worth it in my opinion. It's nice in theory, but in practice, a major headache.