Swapping a D16Y7 into my RT4WD- what do I need?

StockStock Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
I've been sitting on a complete B16A2+tranny that no one wants to buy and since my wagon's motor burns a quart every ~100 miles or so (I'm on the interstate 2 hours a day), now I'm looking to trade plus cash for another D16. Apparently no one wants to trade as I've only gotten an offer for a JDM D15, DOHC ZC (guy never got back to me) and now a D16Y7... Looks like I'm going to go for the Y7 once he and I agree upon how much his motor is worth.

Since I'm AWD I wasn't going to bother getting the tranny from him since I'll need to use mine, right? Actually, I just remembered as I typed that that the rear most section of my driveshaft isn't on the car so it's 2WD anyways (2 hours a day on the interstate, I don't need the exrta drivetrain loss, plus I bought the car like this) so maybe I should grab his tranny for the more MPG friendly gears, thoughts?

Anyway, I pretty sure it's DPFI (?) so my question is if I throw my stock MPFI IM on the Y7 I would need to run my stock ECU, correct? Any other electrical things I should know about maybe different sensors on the different motors? the Y7 is OBD1, right? Is my Wagon?


If you can't tell, I'm not really that well versed in the Honda game and all you guys' talk about swapping parts and OBD compatibility and shit just makes my head spin. I'm an ADD kid. :lol:

Comments

  • fettcolsfettcols Wagonist
    The D16Y7 wasn't DPFI, it has a strange throttle body on it but it's mpfi and OBD2. If I were doing it I would use your D16A6 intake, ECU, harness, and distributer. They'll all fit the Y7 with the exception of the fan switch. The Y7 has it on the thermostat housing so you'll have to extend the wires for that.

    The next concern it the tranny and oilpan and we'll need some help here from somebody more familiar with the RT trans.

    I'm not sure the Y7 has the hole in the back of the block to fit the intermediate shaft for the RT trans. The tranny that would come with the Y7 would be hydro so unless you want to lay out the cash for one those fancy cable/hydro bolt on things I would stick with the tranny you already have. Not to mention the fact you tranny is cable shifted too and the front wheel drive trannys are shifted by rods. That would be a big headache to change over too.

    Anybody know if the RT intermediat shaft will bolt to a Y7 block? That seems to be the only big problem.
  • StockStock Wagonist
    fettcols wrote:
    The D16Y7 wasn't DPFI, it has a strange throttle body on it but it's mpfi and OBD2. If I were doing it I would use your D16A6 intake, ECU, harness, and distributer. They'll all fit the Y7 with the exception of the fan switch. The Y7 has it on the thermostat housing so you'll have to extend the wires for that.

    The next concern it the tranny and oilpan and we'll need some help here from somebody more familiar with the RT trans.

    I'm not sure the Y7 has the hole in the back of the block to fit the intermediate shaft for the RT trans. The tranny that would come with the Y7 would be hydro so unless you want to lay out the cash for one those fancy cable/hydro bolt on things I would stick with the tranny you already have. Not to mention the fact you tranny is cable shifted too and the front wheel drive trannys are shifted by rods. That would be a big headache to change over too.

    Anybody know if the RT intermediat shaft will bolt to a Y7 block? That seems to be the only big problem.

    Thanks! Pretty much what I was looking for... I figured that since I was already 2WD that the trans would work but I completely forgot about the cable shifter, good call. Hopefully someone can chime in about the output shaft clearance. 8)
  • fettcolsfettcols Wagonist
    If the guy is serious about trading, ask him to take a photo or two of the back of the block and post it up on the board. I'm sure somebody here would be able to give you a yes or a no on that one.

    The Y7 is good and cheap swap for front wheel drive models. It swaps better in the OBDO cars than the OBD1 motors. The older dizzy fits the head better than the OBD1 heads. That and for under $400 you have nice selection of them.

    And one more thing, you also have to trim the timing cover a little for your upper mount to work.
  • StockStock Wagonist
    So, just out of curiosity, would the JDM D15b be a good trade? I wrote it off at first because of the drop in displacement but the more I read about it the more it seems to be a decent motor...
  • fettcolsfettcols Wagonist
    Stock wrote:
    So, just out of curiosity, would the JDM D15b be a good trade?

    I guess it depends on how much cash the person is throwing in the deal. Around these parts the b16 is worth quite more than the D15b. I honestly couldn't tell you off hand if the D15b is tapped for the rt's intermediate shaft. As far as hooking it up, for best results you would want to go OBD1 with that motor.
  • StockStock Wagonist
    Well B16s are worth a lot here but no one is wanting to separate with their cash in these harsh times...;)

    Here's what I'm selling:

    It's a B16A2 longblock + matching trans out of a 2000 Civic Si that was pulled at ~42,XXX miles. I'm the third owner and I'm roommates with the original EM1 owner who only pulled this to ITR swap his Civic, the second owner is over at me house three times a week and put maybe 3000 miles on it in the year he owned it. It has CTR Pistons, ITR cams, an AEBS intake manifold, Buddy Club Cam Gears and a B&M Fuel Pressure regulator and Gauge.

    I started at $2,200 looking to haggle down to ~$1,800. I'm now asking $1,500 for this whole setup and no one wants it. Maybe I'm crazy, but I think this is a really good deal. :cry:
  • StockStock Wagonist
    Come on guys, I commute 115 miles a day, I need to get a fresher motor in this thing for peace of mind!
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    My D15B VTEC has the holes for the int shaft but they aren't tapped.
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