New clutch slips?

OK, since I can't do a search on honda-tech I'll just ask the really smart people over here. :) This is also for my gf's 88 CRX Si, but the question could apply to a manual wagon, too.

During the engine swap, it got a new clutch, and the flywheel was resurfaced. Reassembled, drove home, yay, no slippage. Then it didn't run for 3 months (bad connection in dizzy). Fixed that, started driving it regularly. Then the NEW clutch started slipping! It has maybe 500 miles on it, tops. Started pretty mild, as in I had to be pretty hamfisted with it to make it slip. But now even an abrupt burst of throttle even at low revs in a high gear can make it slip. The car can still be driven, but we aren't, just so we don't make things even worse. Other than the slipping, the clutch seems perfect - no binding, no noise, engagement is perfectly smooth like it should be.

Before you suggest it, I adjusted the clutch cable to make it as tight as possible. There's gobs of free play, and the clutch is engaging as soon as the pedal comes off the floor. It helped a little, but didn't stop it from slipping.

Any suggestions, short of dropping the tranny and pulling the clutch? :evil:

Comments

  • Any foreign contaminants getting or gotten in there? Maybe clutch soaked up some oil or something like that? Moisture build-up? Just throwing some possibilities out there....
  • White&NerdyWhite&Nerdy Senior Wagonist
    The flywheel was resurfaced due to oil contamination from the previous motor, which leaked like a sieve (which probably led to that motor's demise from oil starvation). But it WAS resurfaced, so that shouldn't be affecting it now on a different non-leaky motor.

    Anyway to check for such things without pulling the tranny?
  • Not sure really, sorry :(
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    If you're sure your adjustment is right, and you do have free travel, then it sounds like you're going to have to pull it! You mentioned tightening the cable...for this symptom you would need to loosen it.

    broken release bearing ear or spring?
    failed pressure plate? (not likely)
    lining worn(no way, right?)
  • AK_CRXAK_CRX New Wagonist
    is it a raybestos? Did the disc have real metal springs or cheap rubber bushings? I' had a reybestos clutch start slipping after only 6-7,000 miles on a stock CRX HF with 68 hp... The cheap exedy clutches on Ebay work really good, they are made by Dikon, same company that makes a lot of Honda's oem clutches.
  • White&NerdyWhite&Nerdy Senior Wagonist
    Whoops - I mean, I adjusted the cable so that it was as LOOSE as possible, allowing the clutch to be as TIGHT as possible.

    All associated hardware was replaced at the same time as the clutch, except the flywheel which was resurfaced.

    Need to check the brand of the clutch. Our friend who installed it (he has a shop) recommended it highly for a Civic, so we took his advice. The whole rest of the job has been excellent. Just... meh.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    :( Did you use a 4WD T.O.brg or a 2WD one :?:
  • White&NerdyWhite&Nerdy Senior Wagonist
    2wd - this is my gf's CRX Si, which I have not transplanted my RT4WD system into. :lol:
  • All the clutch terminology is very hard to discern as many people use loosening/tightening and engage/disengage interchangeably and/or incorrectly.

    I would make sure that your clutch cable is 1) working correctly (very simple to do) and 2) is adjusted to spec (or close to it) and not all the way "tightened" or "loosened". So long as the componentry is correct and the clutch cable is fine then there is little to do but pull it again (the beauty of a non hydraulic system is its fairly black and white).

    IIRC there shouldn't be any more than 1-1.5" of freeplay before the clutch cable/pedal starts to feel resistance. It shouldn't be all the way down to engage on the floor (making it hard to shift gears without grinding as the clutch isn't fully DISengaging) OR all the way up top with a lot of dead space beneath the engagement point (causing the cable to stretch, and the clutch slips like a mofo because it is not ENgaging all the way).

    Assuming that the clutch operation is functioning as it should (you can shift fine) and it is just slipping really badly I would only guess that something is up with the lining/friction surfaces of either the disc or flywheel. Perhaps there was some glaze over and it is now quite hard to stay engaged without slipping. Yank it out and let us know!.
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