rt-4wd LSD

secretcitizensecretcitizen Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
I was looking through the stickies and I came across a topic on a JDM lsd for the rear diff on our wagons BUT the link to the topic was broken.
I would like to get a little more info on this if i could.
LSD
A)OBX LSD.It's a well built LSD believe it or not,BUT you'll need a
'88-89 Si(orEX) tranny.And it's half the price of other LSD's.
B)4WD:There's a JDM LSD,but it's for the rear.Click on link for more
info: viewtopic.php?t=595
C) :!: Very Important!Make sure you upgrade your spare tire to the
same height as the front wheel unless you want to destroy the LSD.
The 2nd choice is when you get a flat.Put the spare on the
rear.Take the rear wheel & replace the bad tire in front.This will NOT work if your rear tire is NOT the same height as the front's.

Comments

  • evol911evol911 familEE
    From what I remember, those rear ends are really big and have some weird actuators or something. I think its more of a PITA than anything! Haydz might know... I think they came in the Intac wagons.
  • secretcitizensecretcitizen Wagonist
    You know now that I think about it I really do not need a LSD at all. I mean the RT-4wd system acts almost as a LSD anyway right?
    But I would still like some info on it regardless
  • efcivicturboefcivicturbo New Wagonist
    i like this idea.. is there anyway to get more power to the rear wheels? sometimes i feel like i own a three wheel drive.. lol.. what about you other RT4wd owers?

    does your car lack rear wheel power? seems like from a dead stop in alot of snow, the car takes a second to move, like the front wheels are doing the most work...
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Sounds like your viscous coupler is on it's way out.

    The INTRAC rear diff isn't actually that much bigger, the diagrams exaggerate it a bit. Basically it has two viscous couplers built into it, one to handle power from the drive shaft and another to output power to the rear axles. It is both viscously operated and also via solednoid. Which means you can leave it RT4WD and then also push a button to force fulltime 4WD.

    I had the Shuttle launching sideways at 7k RPM quite a number of times. :lol:

    I would suggest having a read through the Quicklinks threads at the top of each page as it has alot of useful information in it, like the INTRAC specs.
  • secretcitizensecretcitizen Wagonist
    Haydz wrote:
    Sounds like your viscous coupler is on it's way out.

    The INTRAC rear diff isn't actually that much bigger, the diagrams exaggerate it a bit. Basically it has two viscous couplers built into it, one to handle power from the drive shaft and another to output power to the rear axles. It is both viscously operated and also via solednoid. Which means you can leave it RT4WD and then also push a button to force fulltime 4WD.

    I had the Shuttle launching sideways at 7k RPM quite a number of times. :lol:

    I would suggest having a read through the Quicklinks threads at the top of each page as it has alot of useful information in it, like the INTRAC specs.
    sorry,........ but what does this mean for us?
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Really, really simply, i don't think you'll ever get one of these diffs. So it pretty much means nothing.

    You asked about rear LSD, i told you about it and gave you the link to read up on it. :)
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    efcivicturbo wrote:
    i like this idea.. is there anyway to get more power to the rear wheels? sometimes i feel like i own a three wheel drive.. lol.. what about you other RT4wd owers?

    does your car lack rear wheel power? seems like from a dead stop in alot of snow, the car takes a second to move, like the front wheels are doing the most work...


    Remove the Viscous coupler and you will have All time 4wd. Has anyone figured what the split is at the transfer case or is it the viscous coupler that does the torque transfering?? Maye I should read up on this :oops:
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    It's the VC that does it AFAIK.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    I have an OBX LSD installed in my Wagovan USDM rear diff housing. There's still a few tweaks that need done to get it in there perfectly, but the overall dimensions are fine. 1st thing is the bolt holes for the ring gear. The OBX diff (FWD) has threaded holes, as the FWD ring gear has blind holes. However, the Wagovan ring gear has the threads in it, and to top it off, the RWD gear has right hand threads (righty tighty, lefty loosey) whereas the FWD has left hand threads. I opened up 2 holes with my Dremel, and it took for f-cking ever, but I did it so I could bolt it all together to confirm that this was going to work. One hole was pretty spot on, but the other ended up a little loosey goosy. I've droppped the diff off at the machine shop for them to finish the work somewhat more accurately.

    Next is the shimming of the diff in the housing. It needs a few more shims as the overall width is a little less. Guess what? Honda discontinued the shims. I was able to find a small assortment of CRV transfer case shims that are very close to the same size, and will fit perfectly. I also now have a "couple" extra diffs, and will be able to use the shims from those.

    Otherwise, the Wagovan bearings fit the OBX diff perfectly, and the Wagovan axles and splines fit for the driver's side axle only. The passenger side axle needs a shorter spline (like a FWD axle), as all the FWD diffs have a shorter seat for the axle/spline. I will be using Civic FWD inner joints as well as Civic/Integra outer joints with my DSS custom length axles, as the total output of my engine will be going to the back wheels.

    EDITED FOR CHANGED AXLE INFORMATION
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Good info!
  • JakerJaker familEE
    The USDM front/rear ratios (2.526 output to driveshaft, 2.529 rear diff ratio) mean that the rear wheels spin 99.88% the speed of the fronts. It takes 0.12% slip at the front wheels before the viscous coupling starts doing it's thing. It might not react instantly, as it takes some mild heat build up in the fluid before the friction plates are forced together, but then it's more or less a 50/50 torque/drive split.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Jaker, is yours the Wagon with the huge feet?
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Yup!
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    I fixed the link.A lot of the links don't work 'cuz we switched over to the ,''phpbb'' system.Haydz said it would switch over in time by itself.I'm still waiting.The old links don't work.I've had to manually fix alotta of the links.

    Link to the fixed link:
    viewtopic.php?f=7&t=595
  • White&NerdyWhite&Nerdy Senior Wagonist
    A front LSD could be useful in case you get one of the front wheels *and* one of the rear wheels stuck - snow, mud, whatever. Power will transfer from the front to back, but with open diffs at both ends you could still end up with one wheel spinning at each end and not actually get anywhere.

    Chances of this actually happening are quite low unless you're intentionally doing something idiotic. :lol: So they decided the viscous center diff would be enough, and it usually is.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    SiWagon wrote:
    A lot of the links don't work 'cuz we switched over to the ,''phpbb'' system.Haydz said it would switch over in time by itself.I'm still waiting.The old links don't work.I've had to manually fix alotta of the links.

    No i said the topics should become searchable over time (which still hasn't happened after rebuilding the index twice so i'll have to look into it). The links will never fix themselves. :)
  • efcivicturboefcivicturbo New Wagonist
    so has anyone actually removed this viscous coupling? are there any side effects? im definetly willing to give it a shot if it will work.. i checked that intrac link, but the viscous couple is not shown.. is this a big job removing it, does the differential have to be removed from the vehicle? or is it a relatively simple process??

    any input is greatly appreciated.. thankyou guys
  • ricefighterricefighter Wagonist
    Jaker wrote:
    The USDM front/rear ratios (2.526 output to driveshaft, 2.529 rear diff ratio) mean that the rear wheels spin 99.88% the speed of the fronts. It takes 0.12% slip at the front wheels before the viscous coupling starts doing it's thing. It might not react instantly, as it takes some mild heat build up in the fluid before the friction plates are forced together, but then it's more or less a 50/50 torque/drive split.

    jaker can i pick your brain. i got this premature front tire wear and im thinking that my viscous coupler is stocked up. when i put the car on lift and turn the drive shaft from the front side, the backside turn as well. is this normal? i was expecting that when turning the front wheel the rear wheels will not turn unless the VC will build up heat to locked up. please share your wisdom or somebody to shed light on this issue.

    thank you very much.


    wagon..........4ever.......................
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    If all four wheels are off the ground and you turn one front wheel then yes the rear should definately start turning. If not i'd investigate your VC.
  • ricefighterricefighter Wagonist
    Haydz wrote:
    If all four wheels are off the ground and you turn one front wheel then yes the rear should definately start turning. If not i'd investigate your VC.

    thanks for the reply. and yes 4 wheels are of the ground and when i spin the front wheels, the rear wheels spins also. so thats normal. i thought the the viscous should spin freely. anyways. i thought thats the cause for premature front tire wear. ill try to check again my alignment and check if this is the culprit.

    thanks again bro.


    wagon.............................4ever........................
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Nah, have a think about this.

    All four wheels are off the ground. You turn the front ones and the back ones aren't being turned, therefore there is a difference in rotation speed between front and rear, therefore the rear wheels start turning as the VC sends power to them, because of the difference in rotation speed. ;)
  • efcivicturboefcivicturbo New Wagonist
    is the VC replacable? where is it located?
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    On the USDM wagons it's in the centre of the driveshaft.
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