Buying a new b16??Need help about it.

Comments

• rallyrat427 Wagonist

  January 2009

  make sure you buy the right one (obd0,obd1....etc)
• My91wagon New Wagonist

  January 2009

  I am purchasing a B16 Sir-II, it comes OBD-I. I would need ya'll help to begin and complete my swap. I would like to know all the stuff necessary to do the complete swap. Like I said before its my first swap. What are the major problems i would encounter doing the swaps? How do i convert the car to OBD-II?
  
  If ya'll know a link that would helo me out please let me know.
  Thanks
• wagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert

  January 2009

  if i were you, i'd do the following..
  
  -OBD-1 B16A
  -Hasport mounts for b-series into EF
  -Hasport shift linkage
  -OBD-0 DPFI to OBD-1 MPFI VTEC wiring harness conversion from Rywire
  http://rywire.com/store/8891-crxcivic-d ... f214b48223
  
  with that you'd have a very nice, reliable and clean well-built swap setup.
• noahrexion Wagonist

  January 2009

  wagodizzle wrote:

  if i were you, i'd do the following..
  
  -OBD-1 B16A
  -Hasport mounts for b-series into EF
  -Hasport shift linkage
  -OBD-0 DPFI to OBD-1 MPFI VTEC wiring harness conversion from Rywire
  http://rywire.com/store/8891-crxcivic-d ... f214b48223
  
  with that you'd have a very nice, reliable and clean well-built swap setup.

  
  x2, that is great advice for someone doing this the first time; this will require minimal work (so long as your SIR II is OBDI)
  
  Check this link for info on that http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f93/b16 ... wn-124796/
  You can definitely save some money by shopping around for used "kits" or using Ebay. Don't forget the little things that are easy to do while the motor is out. The whole swap price should be entirely based upon what you intend to put in WHILE THE MOTOR IS OUT. These things can include but are not limited to: clutch/flywheel, front and rear crank seals, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seals, cam gears, cam(s), gaskets of all sorts, water pump, dizzy seal....etc
  Make sure you have fresh plugs (iridium work fantastic) and tune-up parts, coolant, oil/filter, proper axle(s) and be prepared to replace a few things that may come broken/cracked on the B16 (TPS, IACV...etc). There are countless tutorials on how to do this, and with all the "kits" available now-a-days it really is a simple R/R process.
• B18C5-EH2 Moderator

  January 2009

  If it's a second gen "SiR II" as some importers call it then it's an OBD1 system and also has a hydraulic tranny/clutch, which complicates the swap more so than the typical OBD0 cable deal.
  
  Not only will you need a mount kits, but also the conversion kit for the clutch set-up since your wagon has a cable, while the swap will need a hydro system. There have been many different versions of a conversion kit, but the best one I've seen is HASport's latest offering:
  
  Click HERE for the HASport Products Needed to do this swap
  
  Here's a pic of said conversion piece:
  
  
  
  Also HASport offers mounts in different poly stifnesses. From my own personal experience of currently owning a non-HASport mount kit with stiffer poly I can honestly say the softer HAsport 62A poly makes the engine feel much, much smoother inside while driving the car. I've driven two other wagons with B swaps and the sofest 62A poly and I am buying HASport 62As with tax money and replacing all of my mounts due to some vibes/buzzing at certain rpm.
  
  With the right mounts (this is THE key IMO to the swap) the car will be tame enough for your grandma to ride in or drive the car. Going cheap on these key aftermarket parts wioll definately show in the end. Ebay mounts, etc. (unless they are like HASport, etc.) will not line up the same, they will buzz/vibrate, and don't have a lifetime warranty.
  
  Along with mounts you'll need misc. stuff like throttle cable(probably 92-93 Integra GS-R), radiator hoses (probably 90-93 Integra), etc. etc. If this were the run of the mill cable set-up I could help you with a pretty complete list, but for the hydro tranny set-up I don't know which mount brackets need to be on the engine in conjunction with the after market mount kits needed.
  
  As others have pointed out you'd also be looking at OBD1 wiring conversion too. Rywire is definately good, but there are others doing this too. Bam Bam found a local GA guy who made what looks to be a nice harness with color coded wiring, etc.
  
  
  In the end it'll be nice - I love having a B-powered wagon (B18B1 OBD1). It's not even about being bad-ass-Billy street racer either. I rarely/never race mine, but for daily driving it's nice to be able to pull away from traffic, or merge on the interstate.
  
  One last suggestion if I may:
  
  If you're going to go through the extra hassle of OBD1, and the hydro tranny you might want to seriously consider stepping up to the B18C swap. The difference between the B16A and the 1.8L VTEC brother is astounding IMO. I have personally owned a B18C1 GS-R, and a B16A2 both in the same exact chassis at the same time (1992 Si HB - one was mine; the other was my wife's) and both cars were dyno'd same day, same dyno, etc.
  
  The B16A2 with i/h/e - 143whp/102ft-lbs. torque
  The B18C1 i/h/e - 150whp/128ft-lbs. torque
  
  The sheer peak numbers also don't show the crazy fatter power and torque delivery of the 1.8L. In any gear the B18C1 would stomp the B16A, and the B16A feels very much like a stock D16A6 SOHC until you hit 6200rpm or so when VTEC really ramps up.
  
  The B16A is an amazing engine, but in the heavier (than standard hatches and CR-Xs) wagon bodies they are just not as impressive. If peak power and revs is your thing then the B16A will suffice, but if being able to not drop two gears to pass, or being able to pull up hills effortlessly at 2500rpm for daily driving is important go 1.8L.
• oilspot Wagonist

  January 2009

  Username "stock" here on HCW is selling a b16a2, with the mounts you need. It's got some really nice parts on it. You should get in touch with him and check it out.
• lucskywalker Wagonist

  February 2009

  B18C5-EH2 wrote:

  If it's a second gen "SiR II" as some importers call it then it's an OBD1 system and also has a hydraulic tranny/clutch, which complicates the swap more so than the typical OBD0 cable deal.
  
  Not only will you need a mount kits, but also the conversion kit for the clutch set-up since your wagon has a cable, while the swap will need a hydro system. There have been many different versions of a conversion kit, but the best one I've seen is HASport's latest offering:
  
  Click HERE for the HASport Products Needed to do this swap
  
  Here's a pic of said conversion piece:
  
  
  
  Also HASport offers mounts in different poly stifnesses. From my own personal experience of currently owning a non-HASport mount kit with stiffer poly I can honestly say the softer HAsport 62A poly makes the engine feel much, much smoother inside while driving the car. I've driven two other wagons with B swaps and the sofest 62A poly and I am buying HASport 62As with tax money and replacing all of my mounts due to some vibes/buzzing at certain rpm.
  
  With the right mounts (this is THE key IMO to the swap) the car will be tame enough for your grandma to ride in or drive the car. Going cheap on these key aftermarket parts wioll definately show in the end. Ebay mounts, etc. (unless they are like HASport, etc.) will not line up the same, they will buzz/vibrate, and don't have a lifetime warranty.
  
  Along with mounts you'll need misc. stuff like throttle cable(probably 92-93 Integra GS-R), radiator hoses (probably 90-93 Integra), etc. etc. If this were the run of the mill cable set-up I could help you with a pretty complete list, but for the hydro tranny set-up I don't know which mount brackets need to be on the engine in conjunction with the after market mount kits needed.
  
  As others have pointed out you'd also be looking at OBD1 wiring conversion too. Rywire is definately good, but there are others doing this too. Bam Bam found a local GA guy who made what looks to be a nice harness with color coded wiring, etc.
  
  
  In the end it'll be nice - I love having a B-powered wagon (B18B1 OBD1). It's not even about being bad-ass-Billy street racer either. I rarely/never race mine, but for daily driving it's nice to be able to pull away from traffic, or merge on the interstate.
  
  One last suggestion if I may:
  
  If you're going to go through the extra hassle of OBD1, and the hydro tranny you might want to seriously consider stepping up to the B18C swap. The difference between the B16A and the 1.8L VTEC brother is astounding IMO. I have personally owned a B18C1 GS-R, and a B16A2 both in the same exact chassis at the same time (1992 Si HB - one was mine; the other was my wife's) and both cars were dyno'd same day, same dyno, etc.
  
  The B16A2 with i/h/e - 143whp/102ft-lbs. torque
  The B18C1 i/h/e - 150whp/128ft-lbs. torque
  
  The sheer peak numbers also don't show the crazy fatter power and torque delivery of the 1.8L. In any gear the B18C1 would stomp the B16A, and the B16A feels very much like a stock D16A6 SOHC until you hit 6200rpm or so when VTEC really ramps up.
  
  The B16A is an amazing engine, but in the heavier (than standard hatches and CR-Xs) wagon bodies they are just not as impressive. If peak power and revs is your thing then the B16A will suffice, but if being able to not drop two gears to pass, or being able to pull up hills effortlessly at 2500rpm for daily driving is important go 1.8L.

  
  well said.
  and about the b16 vs b18, yea b16 is somthing to get used to, to me it feels like a d-series with a turbo kit. i have not driven a wagon with one but the extra weight i can see the b16 stuggle a little. b16 has na lag i mean if you have driven a turbo car with a mid sized kit you know what its like. gsr motors are just a little more $, but they are really built much better too!