i got a JRSC... now what lol

wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
i have finally managed to save enough to pay off a JRSC from a fellow board member... wagowheeler. anyways, over the months i have read a few things here and there about the install, including the original JR instructions, but i was just wondering if those of you with experience have anything to contribute to the install, and use of the JRSC.

also what else i should upgrade? im getting a performance fuel pump with it already, and bigger injectors as far as i know.
how much does stuff like upgraded fuel rail, oil catch can, etc. help? im quite the Boost n00b needless to say.

anyways, any info/advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
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Comments

  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    ummmm...wow. Wish you were closer, I'd jump in.

    Regardless, you must have this completed by March 8th. Getonitdoggoneit!
  • StockStock Wagonist
    There's one for sale local to me and I hope it's still available when I pick up the wagon. :evil:

    Looking forward to your install. :wink:
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    it will be done soon as i pick it up =)

    definitely before March 8 hahaha
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    good.

    pinks?
  • PM me its pretty easy actuly.... two things i recomend get the thermal intake gasket.... its like a plastic one you can get on ebay..... next is bang a nice size dent in the fender well where the alt is going to go before you install it. i ran it on stock everything with the JR fmu 7psi for awhile and its sweet..... i just upgraded everything recently and made a HUGE imporvement. pm me if you want or AIM me crxzc10psi
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Didnt Akiraboy's wagon used to be blown? Maybe you can get him to chime in...

    Lookin forward to seein this!
  • I would like to race you after this install, just to see..

    thats all :lol:
  • have you tried looking on honda-tech.com in their forced induction forums?
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    crxzc10psi wrote:
    PM me its pretty easy actuly.... two things i recomend get the thermal intake gasket.... its like a plastic one you can get on ebay..... next is bang a nice size dent in the fender well where the alt is going to go before you install it. i ran it on stock everything with the JR fmu 7psi for awhile and its sweet..... i just upgraded everything recently and made a HUGE imporvement. pm me if you want or AIM me crxzc10psi

    i need to reinstall AIM lol.

    i will definitely hit you up man when i get it sometime this week or whenever. thanks!


    as far as racing, uhhh we'll just have to wait and see! seeing as i've never driven a Blown Honda of any kind, i have no idea what to expect =)
  • I can tell you what to expect: Gears that have just gotten smaller! Its going to seem like you are shifting through the gears one after another :twisted: OH! and bald tires and lots of burning rubber, snapped necks, dropped panties, scared V8's, etc...
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    those last 4 things you mentioned all sound great :twisted:
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    wagodizzle wrote:
    those last 4 things you mentioned all sound great :twisted:

    Your mum dropped her panties and i fainted.
  • was it the smell or the sight ?

    : )
  • shenrieshenrie Council Member
    Trying to remember from a while back when I installed a jrsc in a coupe, but is it ran from the same belt as the alt, correct? If so, youd have to convert from a v-belt alt to a ribbed setup right?? Which is gonna need a obd1 crank and alt correct??? Like I said, its been a while so I may be waaaay off here.

    Either way, kickass and look forward to when its done!
  • The most important thing I can think of is having someone install and tune an ECU program like Turbo Edit for OBD0 so that your engine's fate isn't left to some cheap boost dependent fuel pressure riser. The injectors and fuel pump will help, but they won't do anything if the ECU doesn't tell it exactly how much fuel you need.

    ;)

    Boosted Hondas have blown up on 5psi untuned, whilst some 15psi boosted Hondas last for years when tuned properly.

    Set-up sounds cool man. Will it be the stock D15 on boost, or are you going D16A6?
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    thanks for the info.

    i'm keeping my stock D15.

    i plan on eventually doing a VTEC head conversion, or maybe just get a SOHC ZC VTEC... or non-VTEC. options are endless lol but im stick with a d-series (for now...)
  • Well the switch to a VTEC head necessitates the switch to OBD1, so if you are fairly certain about the VTEC head later then you might want to consider going ahead and converting to OBD1 and simply having the boosted D15 tuned on any number oif freeware OBD1 programs such as ECTune, Crome, Uberdata, etc. etc.

    ...or keep it OBD0 for now and use one of the OBD0 freeware programs until you get ready for VTEC and OBD1. There really are no clear cut advantages of having OBD1 over OBD0 except for the availability of tuners and programs being more so for OBD1 than OBD0. Tune for tune you would be fine either way, but OBD1 has some different, more expansive/inclusive tuning programs such as ECTune.
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    yeah i had considered converting to OBD-1 sooner or later. which is also why it figured i might as well go VTEC with that route. oh well we'll see =)
  • shenrie wrote:
    Trying to remember from a while back when I installed a jrsc in a coupe, but is it ran from the same belt as the alt, correct? If so, youd have to convert from a v-belt alt to a ribbed setup right?? Which is gonna need a obd1 crank and alt correct??? Like I said, its been a while so I may be waaaay off here.

    Either way, kickass and look forward to when its done!

    As far back as I can remember, the alternator belt in the Civic has always been a ribbed belt, and yes the blower shares the same belt drive as the alternator. It's the power steering and the A/C that have evolved from V belt drive to ribbed over the years. The JRSC setups for the EF and the EK are a 3 rib drive for shock tower clearance. The EG had enough room for the 4 rib belt. Don't get hung up on trying to find a 3 rib belt though. You can take a 4 or more rib belt, and using a sharp knife, turn it into a 3 rib. It's actually pretty easy. I've done it a bunch of times without issues. Ideally you get a 6 rib belt, and make it into 2 - 3 rib belts. You will probably have to adjust the belt length (maybe even buy a shorter belt) for install on the D15 motor. The D16 has a taller block which means a longer belt than what is required for the D15.
  • shenrieshenrie Council Member
    Jaker wrote:
    As far back as I can remember, the alternator belt in the Civic has always been a ribbed belt.

    Every 88-91 civic and every 90-93 Integra Ive bought has had a v-belt for the alt, and Ive bought way more of those cars than Id like to admit.

    I was going to say maybe it was a Canada thing, but all the Si hatchs Ive bought have the sticker in the bay that says they were built in Canada.
  • If i where a wise man... (witch im not) :mrgreen:
    Wouldn’t you have to ever so slightly adjust you Ignition timing because you now have boost, thus get optimal performance and economy?
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Assuming this is a used blower? If you dont mind me asking, how much did you pick it up for? I've always thought about picking up a used one myself. Not worth the price brand new IMO
  • shenrie wrote:
    Jaker wrote:
    As far back as I can remember, the alternator belt in the Civic has always been a ribbed belt.
    Every 88-91 civic and every 90-93 Integra Ive bought has had a v-belt for the alt, and Ive bought way more of those cars than Id like to admit.

    That's wierd. Every Civic/CRX that I've owned since my 1st brand new Civic in 1986 (probably approaching 20) has had a ribbed alternator drive belt.
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    Charb1618 wrote:
    Assuming this is a used blower? If you dont mind me asking, how much did you pick it up for? I've always thought about picking up a used one myself. Not worth the price brand new IMO

    yeah its a used blower. it was $900 with some extra parts like performance fuel pump, fuel injectors... etc

    i dont think they even sell them new anymore?
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    SweetOh wrote:
    If i where a wise man... (witch im not) :mrgreen:
    Wouldn’t you have to ever so slightly adjust you Ignition timing because you now have boost, thus get optimal performance and economy?

    yeah i believe you need to retard it slightly.
  • wagodizzle wrote:
    SweetOh wrote:
    If i where a wise man... (witch im not) :mrgreen:
    Wouldn’t you have to ever so slightly adjust you Ignition timing because you now have boost, thus get optimal performance and economy?

    yeah i believe you need to retard it slightly.

    Just don't go full retard!! LOL :lol: :lol: :lol:
  • i'll second some of what is above in regards to what you will need. your project is similar to mine, i'm just using a turbo. you should be fine with stock fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. upgrade your injectors and get a walbro 255 fuel pump. if your gonna do the vtec head you might as well go ahead and convert to obd1. i also suggest the obd1 conversion for tuning options. turbo edit is one of the few that is used for obd0 but it is hard to find someone that can use it. with the obd1 programs, most are free, and most tuners have one they prefer. i like crome, my buddies civic is tuned at 15 psi and is pushing 370 hp on a vitara/eagle set-up. DO NOT USE AN FMU!!!! that is the quickest way to destroy your motor.
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    if i dont use the FMU, do i have to replace it with anything? or what do i do with the hoses that go into it...
  • instead of the fmu you will be using a chiped ecu, with a tune from one of the programs mentioned.
  • The only thing I would add to what has already been mentioned is that you infact DO use an adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator (1:1). It is not the same as a FMU as its not your basis for tuning; it simply makes your tuning MUCH easier especially when you are using a walbro (or w/e) 255lph pump because they will overrun the stock FPR. Injectors are the best way to compensate for your boost period; a RRFPR will make it even easier to tune allowing you to run better out of boost (since you won't have to run a high overall pressure and/or run more fuel since you are using a stock FPR).

    You can get a nice RRFPR and some A/N fittings and make it all purdy for about $150. Its a great investment when you are boosted and it really makes transition/tuning smoother.
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