Replacing the Alternator on an '89 civic wagon DX
wizard_of_trance
Band Wagon
Since I have just finished doing this multiple times, I figured I would list a few steps that will cut your time considerably if you have a car like mine and have to replace the alternator.
1. Prep work: Take the bolt (13mm) that is used to adjust the fan belt tension, and using a little WD-40 or other lubricant, lubricate and run the bolt through the threaded hole on the alternator that it goes in a few times. They usually sand blast the alternator cases when rebuilding them which roughs up the threads in the hole and makes the bolt very hard to turn. There is very little room to maneuver when the alternator is mounted in the car so it helps (tremendously!) if that bolt turns easily first. The locking nut will keep the bolt secure in place after belt tensioning.
2. Make sure you disconnect the battery and remove the air filter cover and attached air tube to the carb. You will need the room.
3. The wire connector in the back of the alternator seems to come out easiest when done from below rather than above (you have to depress the locking tab on the top of the connector to pull it out). The lone wire that goes to the separate upper post seems to be gotten easier from the top. (10mm)
4. The nuts on the alternator mounting bolt are 17mm
5. Remove the old alternator through the space occupied by the heater hoses and speedo cable, its just to the left of and behind the carburator. Just bend the hoses and cable out of the way and "tumble" the alternator out, and then the new one back in. Very quick and easy.
6. I used a "C" Clamp and an oversized socket to bias the spacer in the left side of the alternator mount, to the left (when looking at it from under the car, feet sticking out the front of the car). This spacer moves to remove any space so there is no lateral movement of the alternator when the mounting bolt is tightened. Doing this first makes room for the new alternator to slide easily into place in the mounting bracket, so the mounting holes line up easily and the mounting bolt slides right in. The spacer will move back into place as the mounting bolt is tightened.
Follow these suggestions and replacing your alternator will be a 20-30 min easy job.
Good Luck!
1. Prep work: Take the bolt (13mm) that is used to adjust the fan belt tension, and using a little WD-40 or other lubricant, lubricate and run the bolt through the threaded hole on the alternator that it goes in a few times. They usually sand blast the alternator cases when rebuilding them which roughs up the threads in the hole and makes the bolt very hard to turn. There is very little room to maneuver when the alternator is mounted in the car so it helps (tremendously!) if that bolt turns easily first. The locking nut will keep the bolt secure in place after belt tensioning.
2. Make sure you disconnect the battery and remove the air filter cover and attached air tube to the carb. You will need the room.
3. The wire connector in the back of the alternator seems to come out easiest when done from below rather than above (you have to depress the locking tab on the top of the connector to pull it out). The lone wire that goes to the separate upper post seems to be gotten easier from the top. (10mm)
4. The nuts on the alternator mounting bolt are 17mm
5. Remove the old alternator through the space occupied by the heater hoses and speedo cable, its just to the left of and behind the carburator. Just bend the hoses and cable out of the way and "tumble" the alternator out, and then the new one back in. Very quick and easy.
6. I used a "C" Clamp and an oversized socket to bias the spacer in the left side of the alternator mount, to the left (when looking at it from under the car, feet sticking out the front of the car). This spacer moves to remove any space so there is no lateral movement of the alternator when the mounting bolt is tightened. Doing this first makes room for the new alternator to slide easily into place in the mounting bracket, so the mounting holes line up easily and the mounting bolt slides right in. The spacer will move back into place as the mounting bolt is tightened.
Follow these suggestions and replacing your alternator will be a 20-30 min easy job.
Good Luck!
Comments
the top bracket bolt is a 12mm the lower bracket bolt is a square stud bolt you may have this and it may be 17mm but i think its bigger but non the less this stud bult holds it self and you only need to take the 14mm nut off the end. then you slide the stud bolt out and so on. and there are 2 other ways to get the alt out, 1 being the axle out method, and the easyest if your down pipe bolts are in good shape are removing the down pipe compleatly, down pipe is how they did it at honda when i worked for them. the main reason is they didnt want to remove the coolant hoses or leave them to get damage. when you have to do the job quick down pipes cool much faster than scalding coolant, or busting/cutting hoses, plus you dont have to refill/bleed the coolant system
just my 2 cents
When I replaced mine, I ended up disconnecting the master cylinder from the brake booster and gently pulling it out of the way (brake lines still connected) to give enough clearance to pull the alternator out the top. That and I disconnected a bunch of wires and hoses in that area, too. Was a real pain, but it worked.
well, it also helped my, though I am still wondering if there are some specific configurations when it comes to car alternator.
This is my preferred method...
From the top:
Disconnect battery.
Remove the 12mm upper adjuster bolt and 10mm terminal nut. Maybe also the upper bracket to get to the 10mm terminal nut easier.
From the bottom:
Jack up the car, remove the driver side wheel and secure car on jackstands or blocks.
Remove the other wire connector.
Loosen 14mm nut on the lower through bolt and remove belt.
Remove lower through bolt and rest the alternator out of the way on the steering rack.
Remove lower alternator bracket from block ( 2 14mm bolts) and tumble alternator down towards the suspension/axle and drop it out. A bit tricky but it works!
I cannot speak for the 4WD or power steering racks.
For new alternator installation I recommend chasing the 12mm adjuster bolt threads with a tap. The bolt will screw in nicely
My first Honda was an 1984 Accord. The drivers side axle HAD to be removed to remove the alternator through the bottom...I did not like that
But that was in 1996. I have learned alot since then!
Thanx
just started my removal of the alternator
as stated earlier the thing that is in the way is the lower mounting bracket
I guess I have to go under the car after all
anybody have any pics?
I just hope the alternator is the root of my problems
battery light would come on the dash
radio would shut off and the lights would all start to dim
battery would be dead and only start the car with a boost and run for half an hour before the above symptoms reappear
any thoughts?
thanks in advance
-the stock wire harness wont link to the 96 alternator they are not the same plug so i looked into getting the d15 alternator to run off the d16 in it right now and im being told that wont work
so i need this wire harness in and idk what to do from here, if i need to splice the plugs or not.