MANUAL TRANSMISSION FLUID CAPACITY 2WD: 1.8L (1.6 lmp qt, 1.9 US qt) 4WD: 2.3L (2.1 lmp qt, 2.4 US qt)
Replace every 10,000 km/6,000 miles or 6 months.
Use only SE of SF grade oil when adding or changing transmission oil.
Use the proper viscosity oil for the climate in which you drive.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID CAPACITY
2.4L (2.1 LMP QT, 2.5 US qt)
Replace every 10,000 km/6,000 miles or 6 months
Use only DEXTRON or DEXTRON II automatic transmission fluid
REAR DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CAPACITY
0.65 L (0.6 lmp qt, 0.7 US qt)
Replace every 10,000 km/6,000 miles or 6 months
Recommended oil: HYPOID GEAR OIL (API GL5)
Caution: if the oil level is low, check for possible leaks before adding oil.
Do not overfill.
Remove the oil filler bolt. Feel inside the bolt hole with your finger.
If the oil is up to the bottom edge of the hole, the oil level is correct.
If it is not, slowly add oil until it runs out of the hole, then reinstall
the bolt and tighten it securely with a wrench.
always change with a proper weight lubricant. I recently swapped out the transaxle in our '88 with a synthetic (Redline) I had used in other manual transmissions. I used a 90w gear oil which is what most manuals & differentials take. I didn't pay attention to what I was supposed to use. it's now stiffer to shift in cold weather or after sitting overnight. just happens to be winter here now. sucks. altho' it does shift much better now once it's warmed.
I will, however, get the appropriate weight synth oil and swap it out again soon. I like synths in trannys. they make a huge difference IMHO. unless there is a pre-existing problem. a different oil, dino or synth won't fix that.
I've tried searching, but I can't find a picture/diagram of where the drain and fill plugs are on the RT4wd Manual transmission. Does anybody have a pic/diagram they could post of where those plugs are at?
I looked up what i could on this subject, and couldn't really come to a conclusion. The nearest Honda dealer is a half hour away,, I can get Pennzoil synchromesh at auto-zone, is it ok to use that instead of Honda MTF? Also what weight oil should i use in the differential ? And the last question is it necessary to change out the washers when changing the fluids? If so is that something i can get at the hardware store, or is it an OEM only thing ?
The crush washers are aluminum, so if you can find an aluminum washer in the right dimensions (remember the thickness is important) at your local hardware store, go ahead.
Over the years, I've used pretty much every product that came along that was supposed to be "right" for the Honda transmissions, and I always end up back at the Honda MTL (manual transmission lubricant). It just works better. Less grinding of fast shifts, etc...
The rear diff (non-Intrac) uses either SAE90 (above 41 degrees F) or SAE80 (below 41) Hypoid gear oil (API GL5).
Thank you very much !! I went to the Honda dealer, got the right stuff and the washers, didnt want to take any chances.. Tomorrow my new clutch goes in, she gets a drink of some fresh tranny and diff fluids, and then its back on the road Only been driving her for about 2 weeks, i feel a long lasting friendship on the way though.
I know you guys may think I'm crazy, but I'm running GM Synchromesh with friction modifier #12377916. I read about it on Honda tech from a thread from 2000. They say to use it for LSD's or guys that drive their cars hard, OR if you are developing a grind. I have been using it in my '91 Si hatch(w/SiR swap w/ y1 tranny) since '05 and love it. I just put it in my '91 RT4WD, but I don't drive her as hard for obvious reasons (its stock).
I know you guys may think I'm crazy, but I'm running GM Synchromesh with friction modifier #12377916. I read about it on Honda tech from a thread from 2000. They say to use it for LSD's or guys that drive their cars hard, OR if you are developing a grind. I have been using it in my '91 Si hatch(w/SiR swap w/ y1 tranny) since '05 and love it. I just put it in my '91 RT4WD, but I don't drive her as hard for obvious reasons (its stock).
Dude said this stuff is the shit despite temps.
Or you could run Golden Spectro dirt bike crank case oil, like the guys did in the RealTime acuras.
Both are about $14 a quart. Unless you have a hook up at GM for the synchomesh (cost is $8).
The temp thing throws me off. Normally it's over 41F but many days in the winter it's <41F so do you get under your car on a freezing morning to change the fluid? Then the next day we get a warm wind from the jet stream and it's 50F. What a crappy range to choose from.
Whoa! Is the change interval for auto tranny oil REALLy 6k miles? Every other oil change, then? or for me, every oil change? I have a hard time swallowing that....
Even if the interval were correct, the amount is so small. 2.5 quarts seems like nothing to me. My truck will take almost 18. 2.5 quarts seems almost like it is not enough though. ATF is the life blood in an auto. If you burn it up... Not sure how hot the fluid gets in these little D15B2 autos though. I do know they are lockup transmissions, which helps keep fluid temp down.
so I found honda GL-5 SAE 80W-90 online. Would that be ok in the rear Diff? It's not strait 80 or 90. Honda dealer said they have it in bulk for mechanics and don't sell any to the public.
I use Redline Lightweight Shockproof on both the diff and tranny. An epic oil who exceedes Hondas specifications on both.
Its funny I have never used the shock proof RedLine oil?? I have heard it works every well from friends that have used it in very high HP DSM's. What weight of shock proof are you using??
I have always used the RedLine 5w-30 engine oil in the GearBox
i need to change my rear diff fluid this week. it gets so cold here, we have been seeing -30 degrees F the last week and its been scaring me to drive it. wat does someone recommend for it being so cold? i feel like 80w is still thick.
on the tranny fluid my prelude calls for 10w30/40 motor oil only 2 quarts. what i have found to work the best is a quart or 10w30 synthetic and a quart of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer. for some reason it just loved that combo
the tranny fluid my prelude calls for 10w30/40 motor oil only 2 quarts. what i have found to work the best is a quart or 10w30 synthetic and a quart of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer. for some reason it just loved that combo
Comments
2WD: 1.8L (1.6 lmp qt, 1.9 US qt)
4WD: 2.3L (2.1 lmp qt, 2.4 US qt)
Replace every 10,000 km/6,000 miles or 6 months.
Use only SE of SF grade oil when adding or changing transmission oil.
Use the proper viscosity oil for the climate in which you drive.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID CAPACITY
2.4L (2.1 LMP QT, 2.5 US qt)
Replace every 10,000 km/6,000 miles or 6 months
Use only DEXTRON or DEXTRON II automatic transmission fluid
REAR DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CAPACITY
0.65 L (0.6 lmp qt, 0.7 US qt)
Replace every 10,000 km/6,000 miles or 6 months
Recommended oil: HYPOID GEAR OIL (API GL5)
Caution: if the oil level is low, check for possible leaks before adding oil.
Do not overfill.
Remove the oil filler bolt. Feel inside the bolt hole with your finger.
If the oil is up to the bottom edge of the hole, the oil level is correct.
If it is not, slowly add oil until it runs out of the hole, then reinstall
the bolt and tighten it securely with a wrench.
I will, however, get the appropriate weight synth oil and swap it out again soon. I like synths in trannys. they make a huge difference IMHO. unless there is a pre-existing problem. a different oil, dino or synth won't fix that.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=103
Thanks in advance!
Over the years, I've used pretty much every product that came along that was supposed to be "right" for the Honda transmissions, and I always end up back at the Honda MTL (manual transmission lubricant). It just works better. Less grinding of fast shifts, etc...
The rear diff (non-Intrac) uses either SAE90 (above 41 degrees F) or SAE80 (below 41) Hypoid gear oil (API GL5).
I put Honda MTF in the transmission.
Ya, but you live in Florida.
Not the same for us in cold climates.
Or you could run Golden Spectro dirt bike crank case oil, like the guys did in the RealTime acuras.
Both are about $14 a quart. Unless you have a hook up at GM for the synchomesh (cost is $8).
Those intervals must be Eagle Beagle's own oil change intervals.
Its funny I have never used the shock proof RedLine oil?? I have heard it works every well from friends that have used it in very high HP DSM's. What weight of shock proof are you using??
I have always used the RedLine 5w-30 engine oil in the GearBox
on the tranny fluid my prelude calls for 10w30/40 motor oil only 2 quarts. what i have found to work the best is a quart or 10w30 synthetic and a quart of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer. for some reason it just loved that combo
Hey mate. it is very useful post. Do you have a clear copy of it? The images are blur.
Read the Oil section:
+++SiWagon TIP: Keep that Tranny.PLUS Tips & Specs.