clutch problems

progressprogress Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
Hi all. Long time no see. I've been too involved with fixed gear and bmx bikes so I haven'} been here in a while. Anyhoo...

Seems like I have a clutch issue. Yesterday, driving to work I smelled burning fluid coming from my engine. Kinda sweet smelling but not like coolant. Then after that I felt like I lost my clutch pedal. The free play is now bigger than clutch pedal resistance.

When the clutch pedal is engaged, the travel is very short and I have a hard time getting into first and sometimes 2nd. I'm going to try to adjust the clutch later at lunch. Anything else I should check? Thanks guys!

Comments

  • fettcolsfettcols Wagonist
    It doesn't accout for the strange smell but you might as well grab a flashlight and take a good look at the pedal bracket too. They're known to crack.

    Might want to check the fluid level in the trans too.
  • progressprogress Wagonist
    Well, before my commute home, I tightened up the clutch cable then had to loosen and then again tighten until I got it right. It was a bitch at the red lights though as my car would stall as I tried desperately to get it into 1st.

    Once I got home, I filled up the tranny and readjusted the cable. When pressing the clutch pedal, we could hear a squeeling sound like metal on metal. That's not good right? It sounds like I'll be needing a new clutch... and soon!

    Anyone else have any suggestions?
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    sounds like your TO bearing (squealing). As mentioned above, check to see if your pedal assembly is broken.
  • fettcolsfettcols Wagonist
    When my pedal bracket went bad, I would hear a creaking (metal on metal) noise coming from under the dash.

    And dealing with it for a couple weeks, I discovered that turning the car off and putting it into first then starting it again worked out pretty well.

    Most of the time when the clutch goes bad, it's slips when you stomp on the gas. I know I took a photo of my old bracket with my phone, I'll try and post it. I know I looked at it for a good minute or two before I figured out what the deal was.
  • fettcolsfettcols Wagonist
    This is a photo from the top I think, after it was taken out of the car.



    215.jpg
  • progressprogress Wagonist
    So it finally went. It was shifting into gears fine all day until I got close to home. I started becming harder and harder to shift so I pulled over to adjust the cable and the threaded plastic piece the nut threads onto broke. So know I have no way of adjusting the cable and even if I could, I can't put the car into gear.

    I don't think it's the actual clutch since once in gear, it doesn't pop or slip out. Also since I'm getting a "whining" sound (kinda like a loose belt or something) the throw out bearing or something along those lines sounds more like the correct problem.

    Now if only I had a lift in my garage. Anyone do tranny work using ramps and jacks? This sounds like a problem I may have to have done at a shop. Plus they have the experience as well since they do a lot of Honda work, from race cars to regular commuters.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    Tranny or clutch job can be done with floor jack,ramps & jack stands.I've done it a numbre of times(even did a tranny swap).
  • AK_CRXAK_CRX New Wagonist
    ramps aren't going to work since you need your front wheels off the car, and suspension partially disassymbled. You'll need jack stands, definately doable in a driveway, you'll probly need a buddy to help you lower the tranny down off the engine once all the bolts are removed, and then again when you go to put the tranny back in, one lifting from the top, one underneath to guide it back onto its dowl pins. Not a biggy though... undoe axle nuts, disassy. enough of the susp. to remove the axles, place a jack under the engine, undo tranny mounts/shift linkage, remove tranny bolts and lower the tranny... Remove the pressure plate from the fly wheel, get the flywheel resurfaced @ a machine shop, assemble with new clutch, and put it all back together. you'll never learn if you don't try it!
  • fettcolsfettcols Wagonist
    When it comes to taking apart the suspension, I usually undo the swaybar connectors and where the lower control arms attach on the inboard side.

    With a partner turning the steering wheel it will give you enough room to push out the whole strut/spindle and get the axles out. The parter is there to turn the wheel moving the tierods out to give you enough room.

    The rest is all just turning wrenches and keeping track of your stuff.
  • AK_CRXAK_CRX New Wagonist
    That's pretty smart! I always have undone the lower balljoint, I'll have to try the inboard method.
  • fettcolsfettcols Wagonist
    I left them in the hub before too. Just used some machine wire to hold them up and back out of the way. The last time I did one I kept the long side in and removed the passenger side. That way seems to give plenty of room and it's a little less hassle when you have the tranny on your shoulder trying to shove it home...

    The neat thing is you can wiggle the spindle with you feet when you're putting the shafts back into the tranny, just seems to make life easier.
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