B18A1... what's the difference (NEW QUESTION 12/27)
bam-bam
Council Member
In researching about a potential swap, I see that the '90-'91 integra B18A has 130hp, while the '92-93 has 140. Same boreXstroke, same CR, blah blah...
What changed? Cams? Fueling? ECU?
TIA.
What changed? Cams? Fueling? ECU?
TIA.
Comments
Cams were slightly different too. If you're going that route I'd recommend a B20 over either of them, the torque difference is substantial.
IF I do this, it'll be a complete parts car, preferably OBD0, cable clutch. I was just wondering where that extra 10 was
anybody have some used mounts?
Why would you get a complete parts car?
I don't see where it's easier to try to find/buy everything separately...my time is worth more than that. I've been scouting for awhile for a donor car.
I need to pull a little trailer project to Nashvegas next summer
I disagree, but to each his own I guess. Best of luck.
'92 Integra RS coupe/hatchback, runs and drives well,front end damage. Paid $550 with a salvage title.
Anybody need some Integra body parts?
ive never had to with da to da or da cv/axle to da hub.
They bolt on, but they do change the camber quite a bit. With your car being stock ride height I think you'd have some pretty crazy positive camber. The only knuckles that bolt onto any EF/EE chassis with the big brakes that doesn't have an effect on camber are the 1991 Civic Ex 4 door knuckles.
There was a topic here in this very forum a while back discussing DA knuckles and their affect on EF/EE camber, but I cannot recall 100% if it was positive or negative camber they add - I'm pretty sure it's positive.
I personally have DA knuckles on my wagon, but my car sits pretty damn low and I also have upper control arm camber kits so I can't say from experience I've swapped DA knuckles onto a stock wagon to say how much it changed camber, and which way it went.
BTW:
Either way DO IT. The front brakes make a huge difference in stopping on these cars. You'll also want a 15/16ths brake master cylinder to replace the stock 13/16ths unit. I think you might be able to use the Integra RS one - you'll know once you look at how the mounting ears are clocked on it. If the mounting ears are the same then it'll work. If not then for sure a 1991 Civic EX one will bolt up like stock, but it has the bigger 15/16ths piston size in it.
It would probably level things out if you lowered the wagons some though....
...Will the harness from my automatic partswagon work as a "core", or is there some difference I'm not seeing?
Cranked up fine, no CEL, but auto-belts don't work. wtf? The seatbelt light in the cluster came on, and both belts 'opened' when the doors were opened the first time, but after that, nothing. :?
edit: The whole cluster isn't working. I don't think it's related to the engine harness, I probably blew a fuse or something. No worries, it won't leave the yard again with that engine 8)
The '92 Teg's harness has no provision for said Egr valve.
I pulled another harness today from a '92 Teg....it has an EGR plug. WTF?
How can you tell what head you're looking at? It appears that the head and the bottom end of this engine are of different vintages. OK with me, really, since the head and intake look fresh, I may not have to rework them.
The belts could be due to the fuses on the battery terminal.. Did you unhook those?
Header? Anybody have a recommendation? I've seen from $50 ebay up to $800. What's the compromise? I feel like a decent one should cost about $150 or so...or maybe that's just what I'm willing to spend.
Question: The axles from the '92 integra will work in my wagon, right? I got them in tonight, but they feel too long. (very little end-play, even with front end suspended) I haven't put it on the ground yet, but it looks to me like they will bottom out.
Is there a shorter axle for Bseries?
I spent most of yesterday trying to shoehorn the AC, condenser fan, lines etc in.
Still have an O2 sensor code- I hope it's just the sensor (not the added obd1 4 wire mess)