valve adjustment
949
Senior Wagonist
i was curious, how do i test to see if a valve is too tight?
i followed the basic instructions from the place that creates aftermarket cam shafts and since its a custom cam shaft, i would have to go with what i can test with. the numbers they give is just a starter guide, as they said.
so,
i dont want a valve to burn up so is there a test?
i followed the basic instructions from the place that creates aftermarket cam shafts and since its a custom cam shaft, i would have to go with what i can test with. the numbers they give is just a starter guide, as they said.
so,
i dont want a valve to burn up so is there a test?
Comments
You can probably find the instructions online somewhere as I had access to a shop computer for my printouts. If I have time I will hit one of my factory manuals and see what I can dig up for you.
We just did this on my CR-V and it was super easy. You will need a flat tip screw driver and I believe either a 10 or a 12mm wrench to do the adjustment.
the manual book wont help in this case. the stock numbers wont be correct for my setting.
i aleady set it but i wanted to make sure i didnt set it too low but if its too high i would hear it clanking.
for all to know stock d16a6 is 10 intake and 12 exhaust.
my new cam is
6 intake
8 exhaust
" i am looking to find out if my valves are burning?"
Whats with the dual solenoid Vtec?
And by next size up I don't mean the next feeler gauge on your tool. Some skip quite a bit between gauges. The one I have actually increments every .001 and that's what I mean. On most D series, it's .007 intake, .009 exhaust. So on the intake you want to be able to remove a .007 but not fit a .008.
I have the 3 stage VTEC motor. It's a 1996+ JDM D15B in some countries marked "D15Z7".
Its quiets down when it warms up but still what gives?
I set it all to specs.
20mm for the intake and 25mm for the exhaust.
It has 221,823miles.
Did you do it when the engine had sat overnight?
2WD or 4WD :?:
Was it ticking before the adjustment :?:
for example. if cant wait for it over night and need to set it when its warm just not burning hot but warm enough that i can touch all the parts.
and the required setting is 6 and 8.
do i set it looser at 6 and eight, meaning less drag?
or do i go with a much more tighter drag?
but still keeping it at 6 and 8 spec. i was curious which way to kinda compensate for the engine still being warm instead of cold.
Umm i did have a tick before, maybe i'm just noticing it a lot more
I did it in the morning i haven't driven anywhere its was about 52F outside. So the engine was cold.
I start with the piston closest to the timing belt and cranked it to TDC.
The i work with the intake valves first. Loosen them up, slide the feeler gage then i tightening it down.
To confirm it, i would grab the arm and wiggle it up and down to see if there's any play. Then adjust the valve till its solid and firm.
I applied the same thing to the exhaust valve. Working i away from the timing belt or drivers side. Turning each piston to tdc.
After i adjusted it all. I hand crank the engine twice to see that everything where it should be.
Am i missing anything?
In the write-up that I linked I explain my method which is to use the .001 above the min spec size to confirm that it's not too loose. But I set it as loose as I can with still having the .001 bigger size not able to fit. So for instance I use the .007 gauge to set the intake and then try the .008 to make sure it wont fit. If it's too tight then it will pinch down on the .007 to the point that it will be difficult to remove.
If you did it correctly and it still ticks then you should look for something else. Hondas tick quite a bit especially the OBD0 engines. The injectors are pretty loud besides the valves. I suggest you use a sthetoscope to pin point the noise.
min is
.0015
.038
mm
Max is
.025
.635
mm
There the two number for each finger, over the under.
I figured to use the top number.
now also ive found the type/brand of oil to solve some noise problems, there was a time when all i used was castrol, well mostly because thats what honda used from the factory. but one day in a rush i had a friend pick up some oil. he got me some pennzoil, well i didnt specify, so it went in. i never heard any of my motors run this quiet before! so then i went on my oil brand of choise search. now i use pennzoil to brake in a fresh motor and then change to mobil 1 for the long haul.
i hope any of this helps, good luck 8)
You got me thinking about that. I found the box that my feeler Gage came in and i looked at the numbers, Well i so happens to be that i went off the SAE numbering on the Gage. So it was off by a lot. Wow so much to paying attention to the details.I sure feel stupid.
Well i recheck and readjusted the valve and now it quieter and it has power.
Thank god i didn't kill my car.