My SOHC V-TEC Build

evol911evol911 familEE
in Engine & Drivetrain
Sooooooo..... This is what I've decided to do:

Once I have all my parts amassed, I'm going to try to do this all in one weekend (Everthing should go as planned as long as I keep beer out of the equation).

Parts List:

A6 Block
Z6 Head (valve job, mild port/polish, stock vlave train)
Y8 manifold with A6 obd0 sensors

OEM: Water Pump, Oil Pan Gasket, Z6 Timing Belt, Tensioner, Front Oil Seal, Piston Rings, Valve Cover Gasket Set, Valve Cover Bolts

Aftermarket: ARP Head Studs, Rod Bearings, Head Gasket(1.5mm)
Xenocron chipped PS9 One-Wire Vtec Ecu with obd0 B16 program and base D16Z6 program.

Sidenotes: With this set-up, I've calculated compresion around 11.3:1. Should be streetable?!?! The reason I am using aftermarket rod bearings sucks :oops: but if I'm going to do this in a weekend, I'm not going to be able to read codes then go to the Honda Dealership and order the bearings I need. I figure if I pull the engine, drop out the old slugs/rods, insert ZC slugs/rods then reassemble the engine I should be fine. :shock: Does any one know where I can find a 1.5mm head gasket??? :shock: I've been looking but can't come up with one reasonably priced.

If anyone has anyother info or parts that should be replaced, I want/need to know. Everyone's opinion counts with me :D

Just don't turn this thread into a peter pulling contest :evil:

Comments

  • B18C5-EH2B18C5-EH2 Moderator
    I think 11.3:1 is perfectly streetable, especially if you have a good basemap in the ECU.

    Question, and I'm asking honestly because I'm not sure:

    Have you checked into the compatability of the A6 IACV and the Y8 manifold?

    Also be careful when you buy your Y8 manifold - make sure it's not one of the ones with air injection or it makes it more of a PITA because you have to block the extra ports off or else you'd have a major vacuum leak.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    The EACV(A6) might not be the same as the IACV on the Y8 but it is still a 2-wire sensor on the Y8 so myabe I can get away with soldering the plug onto my engine harness(3-wire IACV is the Auto Y8). Yeah its not the air injection unit... well at least I think its not, haven't received it yet, bought it from a co-worker for $40.

    YO B18C5 check out this PDF file and let me know what you think. It's a A6 ---> Y8 IM conversion. I read through it but since I don't have the Y8 manifold sitting in front its hard to visualize what plugs and sensors need to be switched and such.

    http://www.geocities.com/joeyp_19/articleviewer.html?view=d16y8manifoldswap&file=.pdf
  • eldonciv777eldonciv777 Wagonist
    Are you not going to hone the cylinders or anything?

    Just my opinion but if the motor needs should get new bearings then it might be best to bore it out to the first oversize.

    I was told from a reputable guy who races that I should just replace the upper half of the rod bearings and the bottom half of the main bearings even in the 190k mile motor I will be rebuilding. Hes been racing like this for 10+ years and never really had a problem. I think I'll replace them all being its a daily driver but if I ever feel like doing a motor cheap that will be one place to cut a corner.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    eldonciv777 wrote:
    Are you not going to hone the cylinders or anything?

    Just my opinion but if the motor needs should get new bearings then it might be best to bore it out to the first oversize.

    I was told from a reputable guy who races that I should just replace the upper half of the rod bearings and the bottom half of the main bearings even in the 190k mile motor I will be rebuilding. Hes been racing like this for 10+ years and never really had a problem. I think I'll replace them all being its a daily driver but if I ever feel like doing a motor cheap that will be one place to cut a corner.

    Honda says to leave the cylinders alone unless there is pronounced score marks, no honing at all. Now if its needed then I will and I will definetly be checking the bores so I know they are not the shape of an egg. I've heard of stories of crosshatch still being present on motors over 200k miles, maybe its just BS. I'm not pulling the crank just going to drop the rods and pistons in and like I was saying before, I won't have time to get the proper color-coded/diameter bearings from Honda. And I sort of see where your racing buddy is coming from seeing how it would seem that most of the pressure is on the top rod bearing and bottom crank bearing but I'm gonna say that the top and bottoms of both get equal amonts of force. But yeah, if I had more time and a little more cash and I wasn't impatient the block would have nice, new OEM bearings.
  • lucskywalkerlucskywalker Wagonist
    dont know if you started your project yet but, in my exeriance with a6 blocks the very center crank bearing on higher milage motors have always and i say always have scoring on them, the motor still felt great but when i take them apart as i do all my motors before i build them up thats been the case. also i dont replace bearings unless they have this problem, i just take some 1500 grit paper to polish them up, also dosent hurt to run it around the crank a few times dont go crazy with it though. ive gotten many extra miles from these motors from this method. and the cyls and rings i wouldnt overbore always, just check the slop in the piston to bore, but i always put a surface and new rings, been burnt to many times with upper rpm smoke, this always takes care of it. you should still be able to pull this stuff off in 2 days. but this is just my opinion from my experiance, good luck! 8)
  • turbo_tegturbo_teg Council Member
    sounds like a fun lil build the only thing i might add would be a cam. good luck post pix of the build.
  • eldonciv777eldonciv777 Wagonist
    evol911 wrote:
    eldonciv777 wrote:
    Are you not going to hone the cylinders or anything?

    Just my opinion but if the motor needs should get new bearings then it might be best to bore it out to the first oversize.

    I was told from a reputable guy who races that I should just replace the upper half of the rod bearings and the bottom half of the main bearings even in the 190k mile motor I will be rebuilding. Hes been racing like this for 10+ years and never really had a problem. I think I'll replace them all being its a daily driver but if I ever feel like doing a motor cheap that will be one place to cut a corner.

    Honda says to leave the cylinders alone unless there is pronounced score marks, no honing at all. Now if its needed then I will and I will definetly be checking the bores so I know they are not the shape of an egg. I've heard of stories of crosshatch still being present on motors over 200k miles, maybe its just BS. I'm not pulling the crank just going to drop the rods and pistons in and like I was saying before, I won't have time to get the proper color-coded/diameter bearings from Honda. And I sort of see where your racing buddy is coming from seeing how it would seem that most of the pressure is on the top rod bearing and bottom crank bearing but I'm gonna say that the top and bottoms of both get equal amonts of force. But yeah, if I had more time and a little more cash and I wasn't impatient the block would have nice, new OEM bearings.

    I didn't know honda said that.....interesting. The original d16a6 that was in my car became hydrolocked at 197k and it still had good crosshatch. Another one I looked at with about 190k on had very little visible but you could see the crosshatch if you looked closely.

    Good luck on your build. I will be "building" one shortly as well.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    So I've decided to start this build quite a few months after I started this build LOL :lol: My original plans to run PM7 pistons/rods out of my old ZC have come to a.... well you'll see!!!!
    151.jpg152.jpg
    153.jpg

    All four pistons are f*cked!! Well shit, anybody have any other good piston/rod combos. I could just stick with my A6 pistons/rods. LMK what you guys think :wink:
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Does this mean you're keepiing her? :D
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    Charb1618 wrote:
    Does this mean you're keepiing her? :D


    Yeah I think so, after I vacuumed and installed the fog and I'm sure after I wash all the road grime I'll fall in love again. Now that things have settled down and I ahve some time to work on the wackovan, I'm hooked again!!!! :D :D
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Good man!

    Atleast wait til I have money and can pick it up lol
  • noahrexionnoahrexion Wagonist
    I would definitely recommend a cam, front/rear oil seals, cam seal, dizzy seal/o ring, NGK iridium, lots of port matching (which you can easily do yourself with some patience and the proper bits), Hondata heatshield (they work), proper intake/exhaust,
    thermostat, wire tuck while everything is off, paint valve cover while its off and paint heatshield for stock manifold if you are to retain it, prepare for new vacuum line/hose replacement just in case.

    As for your rods/pistons I would consider this http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/pistonnotes.htm
    I've always wanted to try that with a proper cam (272 maybe) and see what the D16 can do at 7k +.
    Though thats starting to get a little pricey for all of that.
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