(EE/EY/EF) Brake Upgrade Discussion
Haydz
Moderator
Hi all... for the most part, the front end of the 4th gen wagon is the same as the 4th gen Hatchback/3nd gen CRX in terms of suspension and braking.
Street car with occasional events:
1) Semi-race pads. Keep in mind that full race pads do not work until they are hot, which is why they are not a good choice on a street/daily driven ride. Seeing as the Wagon has Drum rear brakes, i would advise having semi-race grade shoes made, this can be done by a good brake shop if you give them your old set to use for measurements.
2) Slotted rotors/discs. I would recommend slotted rotors over drilled rotors as drilled rotors have a tendancy to warp on street/daily driven cars. Slotted rotors will still provide you with a clean brake surface and not risk warping or cracking.
3) Steel Braided Brake Lines. The Wagon uses the same replacements as the Hatchback and CRX. These improve braking response and ensure safety under hard braking.
4) High performance DOT 4/5 race brake fluid. It is not reccommended to use DOT5 fluid unless you have the above mentioned upgrades.
You can go as far as using a big-brake upgrade kit on the front and converting the rear to discs but on the street this would be money wasted, unless you are doing it for looks. However if you are a regular auto-crosser or track racer then a 'big brake kit' may be your best choice.
Street car with occasional events:
1) Semi-race pads. Keep in mind that full race pads do not work until they are hot, which is why they are not a good choice on a street/daily driven ride. Seeing as the Wagon has Drum rear brakes, i would advise having semi-race grade shoes made, this can be done by a good brake shop if you give them your old set to use for measurements.
2) Slotted rotors/discs. I would recommend slotted rotors over drilled rotors as drilled rotors have a tendancy to warp on street/daily driven cars. Slotted rotors will still provide you with a clean brake surface and not risk warping or cracking.
3) Steel Braided Brake Lines. The Wagon uses the same replacements as the Hatchback and CRX. These improve braking response and ensure safety under hard braking.
4) High performance DOT 4/5 race brake fluid. It is not reccommended to use DOT5 fluid unless you have the above mentioned upgrades.
You can go as far as using a big-brake upgrade kit on the front and converting the rear to discs but on the street this would be money wasted, unless you are doing it for looks. However if you are a regular auto-crosser or track racer then a 'big brake kit' may be your best choice.
Comments
why is that on the rear discs for street?
...jm.
As for rear discs, its up to you.
Same brake setup would work on the wagon, but don't forget to up-size that master cylinder as well. I would personally leave the booster alone.
Also rear disk brake conversion will probably only yeild a wider stance in the rear (from memory), which will help for cornering.
Unless you are seriously improving the power output of the engine, via Forced Induction I would suggest keeping the stock braking system, with the above mentioned upgrades to it (from Pacifier).
About those EX 10.2 brakes. Yea they would fit under 14" rims. You can also opt. for the accord wagon/type r calipers, which will fit under 15"s
There is a good civic brake guide out there somewhere...search honda-tech.com and you will find it.
It simply bolts on to the stock Civic/CRX booster and vastly improves pedal feel.
Hrm...no one did, did they? :P
Depending on what brake setup you decide to go with try to match the master-cylinder.
if i had a regular Civic with drum rear brakes, i'd probably swap them for wagon drums. fwiw.
if i replace it with this do i need to also ask for any new gaskets?
is there even a better upgraded or aftermarket version?
A simple pad and fluid upgrade can improve things 100%. If you only intend on driving really hard for AutoX once in a while then i'd get some decent pads and some decent fluid and leave it at that. If you intend on getting serious then you can start upgrading rotors, calipers, boosters, master cylinders etc.
Do you or anybody else know any aftermarket brake pads/drums that would fit on my 88 wagovan?
:?
Worst
Fucking
Brake
Pads
EVER!
Hell i'd much rather stock pads over EBC anyday.
K20 is the way to go man. screw the new car 8)
K Series! :shock: Props for you. Im telling you.... when I did my LS swap I thought my stock brakes can hold up but they didnt. I drive my wagon hard. It was not fun when I got up to 100mph+ and my stock brakes cant slow it down. I found myself downshifting all the time. Now that I have this Integra Type R suspension and brakes I eat my dashboard. She's stops on a dime. Nothing like a nice OEM upgrade. My opinion. You should upgrade you brakes if you going to put out 210hp.
I don't have a 5-lug swap and I really don't think I would. Only because I don't have the time. But I don't have the k20 yet. It's only a plan. Because I know a b18c5 (integra type-r USDM spec i think) is about 180-195hp is alot cheaper than a k20. But who knows. I'm just saving up, but I'll take pictures and let you guys know which motor I choose. I found a place near my place that services complete motor/tranny swaps, but they charge a an arm and a leg.
I'd go with something in an autocross compound that's more aggressive but requires no warm up like a track pad would. On previous cars I've had good experience with Hawk HP+ and EBC Greenstuff (yes, I'm contradicting Haydz here - I've never had a problem with EBC!)
As for fluid, I've ran ATE Super Blue Racing in cars I used for street, autocross, and track days, and it's always worked well. In my last car, which never saw a track day