Fuel starvation at autocross
Jaker
familEE
Hey gang,
For those of you that autocross your wagons (Shenrie, etc...) how much fuel do you need to run in the tank to avoid fuel starvation in the corners? I ran the car for the 1st time on the weekend, and I had 2/3 of a tank. It would starve pretty hard in some of the faster, longer corners. During the lunch break I filled the tank full, and didn't have any more problems in the afternoon.
I was running on decent street tires (Falken FK452s), so I can only imagine how bad it will be when I get on some V710s or A6s.
Thanks.
For those of you that autocross your wagons (Shenrie, etc...) how much fuel do you need to run in the tank to avoid fuel starvation in the corners? I ran the car for the 1st time on the weekend, and I had 2/3 of a tank. It would starve pretty hard in some of the faster, longer corners. During the lunch break I filled the tank full, and didn't have any more problems in the afternoon.
I was running on decent street tires (Falken FK452s), so I can only imagine how bad it will be when I get on some V710s or A6s.
Thanks.
Comments
I plan on cornerweighting with a full tank for a better front to rear ratio anyway. Ive alwyas done it that way with the front drivers. I was able to get my Integra to a 53/47 front to back ratio. I was happy with those numbers and hoping the wagon equals out a little better with all that glass in back.
Apparantly the wagon has no baffles in the tank like the other models of EF's. Cant remember who found that info, but its posted elsewhere on the site.
Curious on your setup Jaker. Do a thread allready dammit, lol. Reguardless, how did you like the wagon for autox and what other cars did you race in the past?
I'll be making a thread sometime soon when there's something substantial to talk about. At the moment its simply a B20 with a 93 GSR transmission, Ground Control advance design shocks with 560lb fr and 630lb rr springs, CRX HF 17mm hollow fr swaybar and no rear bar.
I was expecting this thing to be a bear to rotate without the rear bar, but I was wrong. Even with 225/35-17 on 17x7.5 on the front and 245/35-17 on 17x9 in the back, it still nearly spun on me on my 1st run. I dropped the compression damping on the rear shocks for the 2nd run, and it was still a little tail-y, but very driveable. I had a blast though. I haven't run an event in a year, and not done anything with a Honda in nearly 2 years. I can't wait for more power, more stick, and drive from the opposite end of the chassis.
I have raced hatch back Civics and CRXs for the last 20 years, as well as a couple events in my sponsor's Turbo 240SX (think 25lbs of boost on a KA24 with 315's on the back, 275's on the front and Race Logic). That was fun, but I never really got 100% comfortable with it. Chalk it up to too much time in FWD cars. That's gonna change!
Once I'm much farther along on the project, there'll be a long detailed thread. If things go well, it'll be kick azz!
I have a rear sway on my b-wagon and it rotates quite well. Its actually getting very predictable with lift oversteer. I spent half my last run at the last event catching up with the car. Not the fastest, but definatly fun. Even had the little lady sideways a few times as shes starting to understand the logistics of the lift oversteer.
yea ths works great i always went cheap/quick route by converting a oil catch can into a reserve/surge tank it doesnt need to be that big. autocross always did this to my crx and my hatch doesnt matter if there is baffles in the tank! i know its an old topic but its a good one
Was on Falken Azenis RT-615s. Never had the problem during street driving, nor at the autocross I ran on basic all-season tires.