I decided to edit it some I cut out a lot of the fat and may have misinterpreted some of what was said. However, I am NOT claiming credit for any of this just trying to make it readable for others.
Civic Wagon Suspension Upgrades
Chassis code table:
DA = 1990 to 1993 Integra
DC = 1994 to 2000 Integra
EF = 1988 to 1991 Civic
EG = 1992 to 1995 Civic
EE2 = 1988 to 1991 Civic Wagon
EE4 = 1988 to 1991 Civic Wagon RT4WD
Lowering:
Adjustable lowering:
EF and DA full-bodied coil-over's fit on the EEs.
Drop Springs and Alternatives:
A) For 1989 to 1991 EEs: Use 1989 to 1991 EF shocks and lowering springs.*
For 1988 to 1991 EEs: Use OEM 1988 to 1991 EF rear springs with the OEM EE rear shock. The rear spring perch on the OEM EE shock is ~2 inches lower than the EF shock and the rear OEM EE spring is ~2 inches taller. The problem with this method is there is no drop in the front.
C) For a 3/4th inch drop on an EE4 use OEM EF or EE2 springs and shocks.
* For 1988 EEs: Use 1988 EF rear shocks, DC Integra Type-R rear shocks or, swap your rear lower control arms with rear lower control arms from a 1989 to 1991 EF or EE.
Important:
Replace your rear lower shock bolts (10x68mm) with the rear lower shock bolts out of the EG or DC. These bolts have a ribbed shank instead of a smooth shank to prevent bolts from rusting to the outer sleeve especially in snow country.
Also you can grab the rear lower shock nuts from any 1988 EF or EE at the junkyard. It is heavy duty with a wider flange but it is rare.
Camber Correction:
Due to the design of the suspension as you lower your EE both camber and toe will be affected. Both of which affect how the car drives and tire wear.
Rear Camber Adjustment:
Use a stack of 2-3 washers between the top of the the EE’s rear upper control arm and the chassis. You can replace the bolts with longer 1986-89 Accord front radius arm bolts but any bolt of appropriate dimensions and grade of strength (I recommend stainless steel) will do. If more washers are needed to get your camber under control then just get longer bolts. By pushing the rear upper control arm out it induces positive camber which counters the negative camber from lowering your EE. More washers = more positive camber.
I don't think that's the only difference, just the only one i know of for sure. I think the rear section may be slightly different too.
The EG LCA won't have the mounting surface or the threaded holes to just bolt the traction bar into it. You may be able to mount the traction bar to the EG LCA with some fabrication, but it would be more hassle than its worth. You might as well just get a set of aftermarket bushings if that's the only reason to swap them.
Does Hardrace not make a front LCA for the 88-91? A Civic or CRX front LCA is the same across all models as far as I know.
You may wanna check out Full Race. I KNOW they make a replacement tubular front subframe, with adjustable traction bars, maybe they make the LCA's too....
Prob won't even have to press them in (if you are going to upgrade to urethane, and why not?). You will have to press out the old ones, or drill them out or burn them out, but check out Energy Suspension. I can't say for sure on EF's, but I know the LCA bushings they make for the EG suspension will just slip in. the bushing at the rear of the front LCA just slides on over the shaft piece, and the others are 2-piece bushings that just slip into the control arm.
Comments
Civic Wagon Suspension Upgrades
Chassis code table:
DA = 1990 to 1993 Integra
DC = 1994 to 2000 Integra
EF = 1988 to 1991 Civic
EG = 1992 to 1995 Civic
EE2 = 1988 to 1991 Civic Wagon
EE4 = 1988 to 1991 Civic Wagon RT4WD
Lowering:
Adjustable lowering:
EF and DA full-bodied coil-over's fit on the EEs.
Drop Springs and Alternatives:
A) For 1989 to 1991 EEs: Use 1989 to 1991 EF shocks and lowering springs.*
For 1988 to 1991 EEs: Use OEM 1988 to 1991 EF rear springs with the OEM EE rear shock. The rear spring perch on the OEM EE shock is ~2 inches lower than the EF shock and the rear OEM EE spring is ~2 inches taller. The problem with this method is there is no drop in the front.
C) For a 3/4th inch drop on an EE4 use OEM EF or EE2 springs and shocks.
* For 1988 EEs: Use 1988 EF rear shocks, DC Integra Type-R rear shocks or, swap your rear lower control arms with rear lower control arms from a 1989 to 1991 EF or EE.
Important:
Replace your rear lower shock bolts (10x68mm) with the rear lower shock bolts out of the EG or DC. These bolts have a ribbed shank instead of a smooth shank to prevent bolts from rusting to the outer sleeve especially in snow country. Also you can grab the rear lower shock nuts from any 1988 EF or EE at the junkyard. It is heavy duty with a wider flange but it is rare.
Camber Correction:
Due to the design of the suspension as you lower your EE both camber and toe will be affected. Both of which affect how the car drives and tire wear.
Rear Camber Adjustment:
Use a stack of 2-3 washers between the top of the the EE’s rear upper control arm and the chassis. You can replace the bolts with longer 1986-89 Accord front radius arm bolts but any bolt of appropriate dimensions and grade of strength (I recommend stainless steel) will do. If more washers are needed to get your camber under control then just get longer bolts. By pushing the rear upper control arm out it induces positive camber which counters the negative camber from lowering your EE. More washers = more positive camber.
Would EG front LCA's work on a 2wd wagon? I was looking at the hardrace ones today since my bushings are shot
Can't remember the name of it at the moment. Torsion rod or something like that.
The EG LCA won't have the mounting surface or the threaded holes to just bolt the traction bar into it. You may be able to mount the traction bar to the EG LCA with some fabrication, but it would be more hassle than its worth. You might as well just get a set of aftermarket bushings if that's the only reason to swap them.
Does Hardrace not make a front LCA for the 88-91? A Civic or CRX front LCA is the same across all models as far as I know.
You may wanna check out Full Race. I KNOW they make a replacement tubular front subframe, with adjustable traction bars, maybe they make the LCA's too....
I have a unique (maybe) application/need and am researching potential solutions:
- 'bout to make a cross country move and would like to take my motorcycle (on a setup similar to bam's -- hitch receiver + platform (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/gtm61/media/bamwagon/9739362D-CDD1-4B59-9723-748BCBAA8723.jpg.html)
- currently, I'm running stock rt4wd suspension, and obviously, the rear sags quite a bit with ~400 bike on the back...
- so I'm considering putting a stiffer spring and/or raising/stiffening the rear to adjust
- seems like using DA suspension on the rear might be a good option -- any other ideas?
- when the car isn't loaded up, would having stock front and DA rear suspension be terrible (other than having the rear be taller)?
As always, any help/wisdom/perspective/thoughts would be appreciated.
Stz
Needless to say I won't be running this setup. Just ordered a full coilover set. :disturbed: