Opinions on Engine Machining

So I'm gonna take my ZC block down to the machine shop in a couple of weeks, anyone have recommendations on what to have done. Hopefully I will just be able to hone the cylinders and check the straightness between deck heights and crankshaft center. Want to see if they can do block-posting, and what is O-ring-ing the sleeves about?? What else should be done on a engine I would like to be in the 250hp range?? This is just the block, I've dealt with heads before so I have that covered.

Comments

  • reading your other posts, i'm assuming this is for a turbo build, you should be good with what you mentioned, if you are planning on using 75.5 mm pistons now would be a good time to have the bore the block. i'd recommend posting but i've see it crack sleeves when done wrong, and there are d16 running 25+ lbs on slocks sleeves w/ t3/t4 setups, it's a decision you'll have to make on your own. the o-ring thing i'm assuming is a block guard, i'm not a very big fan of these as they restrict the coolant flow around the cylinders. depending on who you talk to this will change but you'll most likely run into cooling issues.

    what internals are going into the motor and what turbo setup you going with...just curious
  • Stock PM7 crank, rods, pistons all balanced. ACL Bearings(good???) and thats about it. Every gasket and such that I can source from Honda OEM. The turbo setup is a homemade deal using the HF manifold etc. I'm not doing high boost myabe 10 psi max, small intercooler that will mount next to a civic half radiator. TurboEdit tuning which I have been trying to figure out for the past month. I really would like it to look stock or as stock as it could be. And I'm not worried about the internals as much, I'll start worrying about that when I re-build the original D16A6 thats coming out when the ZC goes in.

    Check out the 5th picture down about sleeves with the O-ring thing done:
    http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_projects/built_ZC/index.html
  • 10 psi is pretty high on stock internals. I'm thinking more like 5-7 is "not doing high boost ".
    25 psi on stock internals is just living on borrowed time...not a matter of "if" but "when".
    I drove a CRX with a turbo dohc zc at 7 psi...stupid fast.

    O-ringing the block or the head is an old hot rod trick to strengthen the seal between the head and the block. If I'm not mistaken, its only used when you have a flat gasket (like copper) or are trying to build a block that will handle 500+ hp. Most gaskets these days have bumps or ridges that perform the same function.
  • i'll second the 5-7 lbs on stock internals

    25 lbs was in reference to honda's "freak" motors that for some reason just hold, i know of an ef hatch with the wagovan rt4wd on a turbo d16 (stock) making 400+ at the wheels, they have some videos on youtube. so it's all about what you are willing to risk, just remeber your rods are the size of a sharpie and are likely to break into a million peaces if they don't like how much boost your running

    for a budget built bottem end i like the ycp vitara pistons, acl duraglide bearings (race wear out to fast), and eagle rods...my 2 cents
  • Thanks for the info guys!

    Just a little history on this motor, this is my original turbo project from about 5 years ago. I sold the CRX dx it was in, moved to Phoenix then moved back to Oregon, found the turbo "kit" on craigslist up in Vancouver, paid $50 to get it back then found out my friend ended up with the motor somehow. He just gave it back to me minus most of it ( no oil pump/pan/pick up, intake manifold, distributor, half of the valves(WTF right???), main pulley, valve cover). I ran it about 8-9 psi when I originally did the ghetto turbo set-up meaning the tuning was a POS Vortech FMU 12:1.

    I'm still on the fence if I really want to build this motor or just bandage it to have some turbo fun. I really just need to get some prices on machining and clear some previous Wagon related bills and its a go.
  • if you do the turbo, loose the fmu convert to obd1 and get a decent tune, it might help save the motor....(i'd recommend crome, its free)
  • Oh no FMU on this one. Gonna use TurboEdit to stay OBD0, I guess I might try Crome if I convert to OBD1(probably won't happen). Still have some time to think about different options.
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