what do i need to put a z6 into a wagon?

dj alodj alo Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
i have the full swap from my coupe that i just got in a wreck in. its a z6 im wanting to know what all i will need to beable to put it into the wagon. i would like to beable to have my wagon powered by this engine seeing as it was out of my baby.

any input would help on all of what i will need to be able to swap it successfully.

Comments

  • evol911evol911 familEE
    Use the motor + distributor, whole wiring harness would make it simple and ECU.
  • dj alodj alo Wagonist
    evol911 wrote:
    Use the motor + distributor, whole wiring harness would make it simple and ECU.

    i was talking to shernie but he told me to call him and he would give me the run down on it. but thought i would see what others have to say as well. i just have to get to work so i wasnt able to call him today.

    he was saying something about i would need a new harness and more then the motor and ecu to do it.
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    you should be able to use your old harness and make a jumper harness to use the stock engine harness. you can buy a jumper harness to use your stock one from http://rywire.com/store/obd0-obd1-conversion-harness-p-37.html?osCsid=983aabe866493a712d959f1baf6b5965 which would make it pretty much just plug an play. take your old motor out less transmission, drop in the z6 use your old flywheel, clutch setup and ecu for yhe z6 plus the obd0 to 0bd1 adapter and you will be running fine.
  • dj alodj alo Wagonist
    evol911 wrote:
    you should be able to use your old harness and make a jumper harness to use the stock engine harness. you can buy a jumper harness to use your stock one from http://rywire.com/store/obd0-obd1-conversion-harness-p-37.html?osCsid=983aabe866493a712d959f1baf6b5965 which would make it pretty much just plug an play. take your old motor out less transmission, drop in the z6 use your old flywheel, clutch setup and ecu for yhe z6 plus the obd0 to 0bd1 adapter and you will be running fine.


    the tranny that is in the wagon right now is a auto tranny will that make any difference?
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    might have to get an ECU from an automatic but i'm not to sure about auto stuff.
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    auto tranny will still bolt up fine to the z6. you will need an auto ECU though.
  • shenrieshenrie Council Member
    His car is a DPFI, so the jumper you posted wont work. Hell need this one, and its 3 bills: http://rywire.com/store/8891-crxcivic-d ... e1fc7193e3 Thiers good info on this link and kinda runs down what all your going to need to do to get the wagon running with the parts from both cars.

    Thats what I wanted to explain to ya is all that garbage. Its just not as easy to do swaps in the dpfi cars. And generally you need to send in the harness to the guys at Rywire so they can modify it. Kinda like a core charge deal. Either way, the guys at Rywire are awesome. They helped me out a bunch when converting my wagon to OBD1.

    As far as the AT stuff goes, in my Integra there is a separate ecu for the at, but Im not sure if its the same in the wagon or not. So the ecu he has should work, just not with the stock wiring. Im sure you can look and see. The AT ECU was in the spot where the cluch pedal would go in my Integra.
  • dj alodj alo Wagonist
    i got it running today its still giving me code 5(5 fast flashes) and code 16 (may be wrong but 16 fast flashes)
  • genedaddygenedaddy Wagonist
    http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=9903

    this link should help with the codes, however it shouldn't be 16 short flashes for a code 16, it would be 1 long and 6 short, there is probably a gap between two codes you just aren't catching, based on that I'd say double check all you wiring, make sure the plugs are all in the right places and hooded up correctly, the first 10 codes could all be related to that...hopefully a few things are just switched
  • ricefighterricefighter Wagonist
    i always wanted to do this Z6 swap in my 88rt4wd. i hope you will post a detailed process. thanks in advance

    wagon......4ever
  • ep3royaltyep3royalty Wagonist
    would the z6 bolt up to the rt tranny???
  • evol911evol911 familEE
    ep3royalty wrote:
    would the z6 bolt up to the rt tranny???
    Yes
  • Okiewagon1Okiewagon1 Wagonist
    evol911 wrote:
    ep3royalty wrote:
    would the z6 bolt up to the rt tranny???
    Yes

    It fits fine. Its alittle tough but it fits fine
  • rti intracrti intrac Senior Wagonist
    The Z6 fits in the rt4wd, I've just finished the swap
    All i had to do was swap the engine mounts over and it went right in.
    Don't do what i did and wonder why the gearbox wont fit on the engine and realise after a week the sumps are different. (rt have a notch for the transfer case).
    you can use the clutch pressure plates off a wagon or a 92-9? civic, i have a second hance excedy one in mone that was for a Eg and it works mint.

    I'm just runnign the MPFI intake and ecu atm (pm7) untill i sort the OBD1 harness and find a ecu.

    Hope this helps
  • rti intracrti intrac Senior Wagonist
    91EERTWagon wrote:
    evol911 wrote:
    ep3royalty wrote:
    would the z6 bolt up to the rt tranny???
    Yes

    ang wrong it will not bolt up to the RT Tranny. I repeat it will not bolt up to the RT Tranny. You will have to modify the oil pan. I tried this already using the stock rt oilpan and it just doesnt clear the tranny.

    the z6 DOES bolt up to the tranny all i had to do was swap the oil pans over.
  • SlammedtallboySlammedtallboy Wagonist
    Is this swap worth doing? Have a swap i'm looking at, just wanted to know if it was worth my time. :o
  • lucskywalkerlucskywalker Wagonist
    Slammedtallboy wrote:
    Is this swap worth doing? Have a swap i'm looking at, just wanted to know if it was worth my time. :o
    of coarse it is, find a young one slap it in there! cost effective 8)
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Young one? Slap it in there?
  • CHONCHCHONCH Band Wagon
    is there a good write up on here somewhere for doing this?

    i just picked up an 88' DX auto wagon and have a nice fresh z6 waiting to go into it.

    i know i'll need the auto-manual stuff, and an obd0 to obd1 jumper harness, and run the vtec/knock sensor wires.

    what am i missing?
  • FakeJDMEF8FakeJDMEF8 Senior Wagonist
    Hi, my name is Maxwell, im new to this forum as a registered member, but have been on honda-tech for many years. I have been working with CRXs for years and recently got into the wagon game after realizing an STi would just be way too much. So, im from Albs, NM and i have a 1991 RT4wd Rio Red wagon. 100% stock, 56,000 miles.

    Ok, im in the same boat. I just picked up a Z6 head and a y8 (1997yr) intake manifold. I have a 1991 RT4wd with the A6. I have been wanting to convert to Obd1 for better mapping, mileage, etcccc. Im getting the head rebuilt and wanting to see if anyone has definate answers for some of the swap. I want the car to be a bit more peppy but not take the mileage down so much. The perfect equilibrium, right?

    Will the Y8 Obd2 intake mani work on the A6 in OBD0 or Obd1, assuming for OBD1 i would be converting with rywire.If so, how? I have heard that the Y8 is more or less the same as the Skunk2. Plus, i have it, and got for free:)

    For a bit more power would it be better to get more headwork done or slap a new camshaft/camgear in there?

    I have heard mixed reviews about injectors. A buddy of mine has a set of DSM injectors. It's tempting, but im not so well versed with injectors? any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

    Has anyone done the bored out b16a throttle body? I have an extra b16a one and the y8 one...figure one would work. i hope.

    as soon as i get a free weekend, ill upload some pics of my wagonn
  • Okiewagon1Okiewagon1 Wagonist
    I would go with the y8 mani over the skunk2. I have one here as well and it appears to be a couple of inchs shorter. The skunk2 mani wont fit the wagons with mods to either your firewall or to your front mount. I had to build a new front solid adjustable mount so that I could pull the motor forward just alittle to clear the firewall. I also had to use torx head bolts on the IACV for extra room near the firewall.

    I dont think that you will need injectors but that will also depend upon how much HP are you planing on making?
  • FakeJDMEF8FakeJDMEF8 Senior Wagonist
    perfect. will the intake manifold work with OBD0 and OBD1? its off an OBD2 motor, and im unsure if that matters? So, that leads me to my next question, what part of the Y8 manifold can i NOT* use? electronics always get the best of me.

    and as far as the injectors, they are like $30 and was just wondering if that was a good idea. I want my car to still be reliable (as possible!)

    i currently have a Spoon sports VTEC controller on my OBD0 b16a. will that work with the mini me? i know it needs a controller, but wondering if i can use one of them, they have the factory look and just plug into the ECU...

    so, as far as converting to OBD1, Rywire for the OBD1 harness, and p28 for ECU (for OBD1 conversion), OBD1 distributor, and thats it?! if im mising something, let me know.

    I've concluded that the Y8 head gasket is the one to get as well. And that the OEM timing belt from the Z6 is the one to get, and that the Z6 FPR is the one to get (will the Y8 one work with OBd0 and OBD1 setups, or is it OBD2 specific?) and that the better the VTEC controller the better (bad reviews on the Summit RPM activated switch)..but unsure if the JDM Spoon one for the OBD0 PW0 B16a will work....

    Just trying to sort out a parts list for hondaautomotiveparts.com....

    So on the same topic, there is no header besides the stock that will work on a RT4wd wagon with the d16? That seems odd to me. who has fabbed one, and would it be worth it in the end? Im not looking for crazy HP, especially since going over 160bhp is prob not recommended for our driveline...but headers are one of those essential mods. Cheap, easy, and effective. So what have others done to compensate (like im looking at the Mini me swap, Y8 IM, b16a Throttle body, injectors, cam and gear, etc,....)???? It's been hard for me coming from CRX's to get use to the A6 in a 5 door, 4wd car..its a bit sluggish! Hell, ive been in b series CRXs. Ive been spoiled! but im looking forward to the 4wd as i have moved into a snowy part!
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    FakeJDMEF8 wrote:
    Im not looking for crazy HP, especially since going over 160bhp is prob not recommended for our driveline...

    Where'd you get that figure? Like anything.. it's just a guess and nothing more. People have pushed much more on the drivetrain and it has held... and even quite alot like 400hp but that made a mess of the box, but only after many runs..

    If you maintain it and don't thrash the tits off it then you will have no problems pushing past 200.
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Haydz wrote:
    and even quite alot like 400hp but that made a mess of the box, but only after many runs..

    The "mess of the box" as you call it is no different that it would have been if the car were straight FWD. The messed up parts were things like synchros and gears that were beat as a result of shifting hard, not using the clutch, etc... The transfer case and differential were still fine, and re-used for the rebuild of the transmission.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    That's exactly my point - there's nothing truely weak about the RT4WD L3. Maintain it and treat it with some respect and it will perform just like any other box.
  • 88hybrid88hybrid Wagonist
    the vtec controller you speak of obd0 will not work, because there are no vtec wires in the wagon before th controller, also it won't plug between the ecu and the jumper because it has obd0 plug ends instead of obd1. you will have to get an obd1 controller and move the switch from the obd0 to the obd1 brain box. for the factory look. they hve the same brain box just different plug ends(assuming you are still going to use the spoon one.) this controller is far superior to others in that it triggers the ecu directly there fore the fuel maps change as well. ie> not leaning out wen you change the cossover point. hope this helps
  • stampernstampern Senior Wagonist
    You get your ecu codes figured out? If not, let me know - I've done a few of those dpfi to mpfi swaps and I'm familiar with the wiring and stuff.
  • FakeJDMEF8FakeJDMEF8 Senior Wagonist
    So here's my plan as of now.

    Got a y8 head for some other parts I had. So will be running that.

    So y8 head, y8 intake mani, b20z throttle body, z6 dizzy, rywire obd1 harness, jg cam, skunk2 pro cam gear, oem timing belt, tensioner, water pump, ac/altern belts, and cam key.
    Hondata IM gasket, felpro H gasket, oem tbody gasket, Ngk plugs and wires, y8 fuel rail an regulator, z6 injectors.

    Also putting in a bisimoto flywheel and LSD dragger cluck kit.
    What parts am I missing, minus the ecu, which will prob be a p28....



    Few questions now...


    Have the y8 stock header. Will this work on my 1991 rt4wd?!?!?

    As per servicing my rear diff, mileage is at 90k and feels a bit loose. What parts are commonly replaced in these wagons per 4wd?! I'm new to this! As per search results, the diff mounts need to be changed? Can't gonfirmnthis. I plan on slowly getting it all fresh and clean. Looking for opinions from people that hav already dine this.

    Anyone using royal purple gl5 oil for diff fluid? What's the best for all temps. I live in new Mexico. Gets to 0 in winter, 100 in summer...
  • JakerJaker familEE
    Z6 distributor will not bolt up the the Y8 head. You need the Y7/Y8 or D15B7 EG distributor. I would also stay away from a FelPro headgasket. Get the OEM Y8 headgasket. It's all metal and will raise you compression very slightly (by about .2 or so) since it's slightly thinner.

    I'm 99% sure the Y8 stock exhaust manifold will not clear the transfer case on the transmission. You could very easily make a new down pipe though that snakes it's way around the transfer case.
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