Civic EX Front Brake Upgrade for EF Civic/CRX
astuto
Wagonist
i was searching around about ex brake upgrade and i found this really amazing article from CRX resource. it explains what parts you need to get, and how to do it. here is the copy and paste. at the end there is the link just in case someone wants to check their website
Civic EX Front Brake Upgrade for EF Civic/CRX
PerformanceThe 1990-1991 Civic EX was the only EF equipped with 10.3" front rotors
these make a very nice upgrade for a high performance CRX or Civic as they
add nearly 1 full inch of extra rotor.
And when equipped with the EX Master cylinder (15/16) and the Booster, your
car will *STOP*
Note: I used a set of 14x5.5" wheels from a 1990 Integra
Stock CRX 14" Wheels may work, but 13" wheels will
Definitely *NOT* work!
Parts List:
1 set of 1990-91 Civic EX Steering knuckles $75
1 set of EX Calipers $60
New set of EX Rotors $60
New set of EX Pads $30
New EX Master Cylinder $70 (do not install a used MC of unknown condition)
New EX Power Brake Booster $80
DX/EX/Si Axles $120 (HF CRX/Std Civic only)
Quart sized bottle of DOT3 or DOT4 fluid $5
Tools Needed:
Torque Wrench
Ratchet
Misc metric box wrenches
Misc metric sockets and extensions
32mm Axle Nut
Breaker bar
Hammer
Pittman Arm Puller (optional)
Jack
Jack Stands
I am only going to explain this for one side
Start off by loosening your axle nuts and lug nuts while your car is on
the ground. Then go ahead and Jack your car up and Securely support it on
Jackstands. Then remove your Wheels, and I like to place them under the
sides of the car (just in case).
Next I would remove the Strut Damper fork from the control arm using a 17mm
Box Wrench, and Socket, followed by removing the upper bolt (14mm) from the
Strut. Remove the brake line brackets, and set the fork, and it's bolts
aside for re-assembly. Next step would be to remove the strut from the chassis.
Now you can go ahead and un-do both the tie-rod end, and lower balljoint
cotter pins, and remove the castle nuts (17mm). I reccomend using a Pittman
arm puller to seperate these from the knuckle, or if one is unavailable
a Hammer can do the trick.
Now that the balljoints are apart, you can go ahead and remove the axle from
the hub. and DON'T hammer the axle out of the spline... worst case use a
big 2 or 3 jaw puller.
You can go ahead and remove your caliper now, just unbolt the lines from the
Knuckle, and set it on the ground, leaving it attatched.
Your Knuckle should be ready to drop, I left my upper A-Arm attatched, and
used the Civic EX one, so just remove the 2 bolts holding it on (17mm) and
don't let it hit your foot!
If you have an HF, now would be a good time to pop in the new Axle.
After you got that out of the way, go ahead and shove the EX A-Arm into place
and don't forget to properly torque the bolts (47 lbs-ft)
Next slide the outer Axle Joint into the Spline of the Hub, and thread the
Axle Nut onto the end of the Axle
Now after that was all bolted up, I went ahead and torqued on the tie-rod
and lower Balljoint castle nuts and re-installed the cotter pins
(lower balljoint 40 lbs-ft, Tie Rod 32 lbs-ft)
Go ahead and install your new rotors and Pads, and calipers
After you finish up with that, re-install the Strut/Spring Assembly.
Here's what you should have now:
Last Step, is to swap the brake line onto your new Caliper, place a catch
pan under your line to prevent a nasty spill, and undo the Banjo bolt on
the Caliper, and swap it over quickly to avoid massive fluid spillage
Go ahead and do the same on the other side, following proper torque procedure
Torque Values
You will also need to install the larger Master Cylinder, and Brake Booster,
which is out of the scope of this article. And Bleed the brakes.
Master Cylinder/Brake Booster Exploded View
Brake Bleeding
And finally the finished product (under 14" Integra wheels)
Good Luck!
-Henry
Thanks to djhankb for this article.
http://www.crxresource.org/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=75
Civic EX Front Brake Upgrade for EF Civic/CRX
PerformanceThe 1990-1991 Civic EX was the only EF equipped with 10.3" front rotors
these make a very nice upgrade for a high performance CRX or Civic as they
add nearly 1 full inch of extra rotor.
And when equipped with the EX Master cylinder (15/16) and the Booster, your
car will *STOP*
Note: I used a set of 14x5.5" wheels from a 1990 Integra
Stock CRX 14" Wheels may work, but 13" wheels will
Definitely *NOT* work!
Parts List:
1 set of 1990-91 Civic EX Steering knuckles $75
1 set of EX Calipers $60
New set of EX Rotors $60
New set of EX Pads $30
New EX Master Cylinder $70 (do not install a used MC of unknown condition)
New EX Power Brake Booster $80
DX/EX/Si Axles $120 (HF CRX/Std Civic only)
Quart sized bottle of DOT3 or DOT4 fluid $5
Tools Needed:
Torque Wrench
Ratchet
Misc metric box wrenches
Misc metric sockets and extensions
32mm Axle Nut
Breaker bar
Hammer
Pittman Arm Puller (optional)
Jack
Jack Stands
I am only going to explain this for one side
Start off by loosening your axle nuts and lug nuts while your car is on
the ground. Then go ahead and Jack your car up and Securely support it on
Jackstands. Then remove your Wheels, and I like to place them under the
sides of the car (just in case).
Next I would remove the Strut Damper fork from the control arm using a 17mm
Box Wrench, and Socket, followed by removing the upper bolt (14mm) from the
Strut. Remove the brake line brackets, and set the fork, and it's bolts
aside for re-assembly. Next step would be to remove the strut from the chassis.
Now you can go ahead and un-do both the tie-rod end, and lower balljoint
cotter pins, and remove the castle nuts (17mm). I reccomend using a Pittman
arm puller to seperate these from the knuckle, or if one is unavailable
a Hammer can do the trick.
Now that the balljoints are apart, you can go ahead and remove the axle from
the hub. and DON'T hammer the axle out of the spline... worst case use a
big 2 or 3 jaw puller.
You can go ahead and remove your caliper now, just unbolt the lines from the
Knuckle, and set it on the ground, leaving it attatched.
Your Knuckle should be ready to drop, I left my upper A-Arm attatched, and
used the Civic EX one, so just remove the 2 bolts holding it on (17mm) and
don't let it hit your foot!
If you have an HF, now would be a good time to pop in the new Axle.
After you got that out of the way, go ahead and shove the EX A-Arm into place
and don't forget to properly torque the bolts (47 lbs-ft)
Next slide the outer Axle Joint into the Spline of the Hub, and thread the
Axle Nut onto the end of the Axle
Now after that was all bolted up, I went ahead and torqued on the tie-rod
and lower Balljoint castle nuts and re-installed the cotter pins
(lower balljoint 40 lbs-ft, Tie Rod 32 lbs-ft)
Go ahead and install your new rotors and Pads, and calipers
After you finish up with that, re-install the Strut/Spring Assembly.
Here's what you should have now:
Last Step, is to swap the brake line onto your new Caliper, place a catch
pan under your line to prevent a nasty spill, and undo the Banjo bolt on
the Caliper, and swap it over quickly to avoid massive fluid spillage
Go ahead and do the same on the other side, following proper torque procedure
Torque Values
You will also need to install the larger Master Cylinder, and Brake Booster,
which is out of the scope of this article. And Bleed the brakes.
Master Cylinder/Brake Booster Exploded View
Brake Bleeding
And finally the finished product (under 14" Integra wheels)
Good Luck!
-Henry
Thanks to djhankb for this article.
http://www.crxresource.org/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=75
Comments
i'll give it another go
: )
lmao
he did