HF Trans. in a wagon

Sup guys, I was wondering if anyone knows if a Hf trans will swap into my 90 wagon 2wd? Right now it has a JDM ZC L3 5sp. in it. I had to have hybrid axles made to avoid changing knuckles. Anyway the axles have integra inners and civic outer spline count. My trans is grindin & I would like to replace it with something with less rpm on the highway,since gas is the way it is. Now it turns 3500 to 4000 @70-80mph. My buddy has a crx hf & i love the gearing. It seems like it would compliment boost also, but I dont know how durable they are. I'm just shopping for options now but I will have to do some thing soon. Any help is appreciated!

Comments

  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    short answer = yes... it will swap in.
  • Dizzle wassup! weird axles & all will work? I'm running both short axles with the half shaft. Also on Car-part.com they list three different HF trans., a Cal, FED, and a high altitude version. Whats up with that. Was the hf only offered in a crx?
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    sup dawg :P

    yeah the HF was only used in the CRX.

    axles, i dont think there is a half shaft with the HF trans, also i dont know if you can keep the half shaft if you swap trannies... someone else will have to chime in about that.

    in the long run though, it will bolt up ;)


    btw, hows that ECU treating you?
  • ECU is great much smoother than before. :D . The only reason I want to re-use the axle setup is becuase there Raxles and I Pd. alot for them. Plus I like the beefyness of the half shaft set up.
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    :? I'm going out on a limb on this 1 'cuz of my unfamiliarity with the ZC tranny.Don't blame me if this doesn't work!You answered ur own question partly.
    ''Integra inners'' won't fit the HF diff 'cuz it's a Civic inner.

    To make it work u need to take the HF innards & put them in ur ZC case with the ZC diff.The ZC diff won't fit into the HF case.You didn't mention if ur ZC has a LSD :?:Just make sure you can turn the input shaft once the tranny case is all bolted back up.

    HF's trannies weak point are it's smaller bearings.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I ran an HF for awhile in my wagon. Start practicing taking off in 2nd gear everywhere you go...

    It will bolt up, but you'll have to run regular civic axles.
  • B18C5-EH2B18C5-EH2 Moderator
    Even for boost the hella long HF gearing is GARBAGE.

    A much better solution would be to find a nice 88-91 Si tranny and swap in just the HF 5th gear to keep the 1-4 nice and tight, but still have a nice, low cruising rpm for the freeway.
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    or just get a DX Wagon tranny, my rpms are about 2800 cruising 70 mph. and i get like 42 mpg doing that.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    B18C5-EH2 wrote:
    Even for boost the hella long HF gearing is GARBAGE.

    A much better solution would be to find a nice 88-91 Si tranny and swap in just the HF 5th gear to keep the 1-4 nice and tight, but still have a nice, low cruising rpm for the freeway.

    does your shop, or another local one do that kind of work? I have an Si, EX, HF, and DX trannies. Is the gear swap atraightforward? (I've built a mess of truck boxes)
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    wagodizzle wrote:
    or just get a DX Wagon tranny, my rpms are about 2800 cruising 70 mph. and i get like 42 mpg doing that.
    your mileage figures just keep climbing...i call bs.
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    bam-bam wrote:
    wagodizzle wrote:
    or just get a DX Wagon tranny, my rpms are about 2800 cruising 70 mph. and i get like 42 mpg doing that.
    your mileage figures just keep climbing...i call bs.

    my daily average is 37 +/- a few, mainy town driving.

    highway cruising was ~42 when i roadtripped from Michigan to Georgia.

    -peace
  • wow i wish i got near that good. i drive 70%hwy and the rest city and i get 30mpg avg. at 65 im cruisin around 2800 or 2900 rpms. and i dont go over 65 anywhere. i make it shift at 3000 or less in every gear. mines an automatic though. i want a stick.
  • B18C5-EH2B18C5-EH2 Moderator
    bam-bam wrote:
    B18C5-EH2 wrote:
    Even for boost the hella long HF gearing is GARBAGE.

    A much better solution would be to find a nice 88-91 Si tranny and swap in just the HF 5th gear to keep the 1-4 nice and tight, but still have a nice, low cruising rpm for the freeway.

    does your shop, or another local one do that kind of work? I have an Si, EX, HF, and DX trannies. Is the gear swap atraightforward? (I've built a mess of truck boxes)[/quote:165420he]

    Yeah the 5th gear swap is super easy if you've been building trannies, because the 5th gears are located at the tops (if the tranny is lying clutch housing opening down on a table) of the two shafts in the tranny. If you have a bearing puller it's as easy as splitting the case, unbolting the top counter shaft stake nut, pulling the two top bearings from the counter shaft, the one from the end of the main shaft, and then unstacking the 5th gear and synchro on the main and the counter shaft 5th gear.

    Replace the 5th gear on the countershaft, and the 5th gear and syncrho on the main shaft, and then bolt it all back together. IMO it's a good idea to buy the new bearings since you'll be pulling them out. The end bearings are usually THE ones to go bad and make noise in these trannies anyways.
  • Sweet, I like that solution much better. I tried taking off in 2nd gear today and it only took me 2 tries to figure out that thats not what I'm looking for, the hf trans that is. The problem I've got now is a grinding or roaring on deceleration and some accelleration. So it sounds like from what your saying I can split the case and swap the gear & syncro while I'm replacing my end shaft bearing and work with what I got. Where could I buy the bearing, gear & syncro. I was under the impression that my JDM ZC L3was geared like an Si trans. am I right? I love the ratio I've got now everywere but the highway. I have a 95 Z28 6sp. conv. with a 4.10 rear, & the faster you short shift it to get to 6th the better the gas mileage(easy on the right foot of course) ,If I can get my wagon to chug 5th gear like the Z's 6th gear we'll be doin somethin.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I'm afraid the HF 5th would be too huge of a drop from Si 4th. Seriously, I couldn't pull 5th under about 75mph (stockd15 dpfi). Hell, you could downshift into 3rd at 70.
  • B18C5-EH2B18C5-EH2 Moderator
    DDCWAGON wrote:
    I was under the impression that my JDM ZC L3was geared like an Si trans. am I right? I love the ratio I've got now everywere but the highway.

    Actually the ZC tranny, if it came from a DOHC ZC has completely different gearing and final drive than the 88-91 Si tranny.

    The DOHC ZC tranny has the closest 1-5 gearing than any other SOHC tranny. The "problem" with them is that they also have the DX spec taller 3.88 final drive in them.

    The 88-91 Si tranny has longer, more spaced out gearing, but a much better 4.25 final drive in them, so OVERALL after multiplying gears against the final drives the Si tranny is actually SHORTER/BETTER geared than the ZC tranny.

    What I have done, and it works out amazingly well, is I took ZC 1-4 gears and stacked them into an Si tranny case with the better Si final drive - but I left the stock Si 5th gear!!! What this gave me was a ultra close, awesome accelerating 1-4 gear ratio, but a stock 88-91 Si 5th gear for highway cruising rpm.

    Let me ask you this:

    Currently do you have the DOHC ZC tranny complete with the midshaft, or have I gone off on a tangent for nothing? The reason I ask is that the DOHC ZC L3 tranny is 100% different inside than the SOHC L3 ZC tranny.

    :)
  • B18C5-EH2B18C5-EH2 Moderator
    For comparison's sake here's the actual ratios:

    JDM DOHC ZC L3:

    1st - 3.250

    2nd - 1.944

    3rd - 1.346

    4th - 1.033

    5th - 0.878

    Final drive - 3.888

    I bolded 5th because that's shorter than a USDM Type R 5th gear ratio!!! Now when you do the math against the 3.88FD it's not too crazy though - you get 3.40.

    Now for USDM Si or JDM SOHC ZC L3 ratios:

    1st - 3.250

    2nd - 1.894

    3rd - 1.259

    4th - 0.937

    5th - 0.771

    Final drive - 4.250

    I bolded the final drive because it's the best one we got here in a regular 5-speed L3 tranny here. When you multiply the 4.25Fd against the .771 lower 5th gear you get 3.27 - still lower than the DOHC ZC overall 5th gear ratio. This means the USDM 88-91 Si tranny has a slightly lower cruising highway rpm in 5th gear.

    So basically acceleration would be in direct correlation with how close each gear is to each other, because the less of a number difference between the gears, the less rpm drops, and the higher each overall gear number ratio is (gear ratio x final drive ratio) the quicker you get to rip through that gear.

    :) Sorry if I'm confusing anyone :)

    I'm going to try and do the math of my custom Zc/Si hybrid tranny where i used ZC 1-4 closer gearing coupled with the Si 5th and 4.25 FD to sow you what I mean. I will simply take each gear ratio and multiply it against the 4.25 FD to get my overall gear ratios per gear.

    1st - 13.81 (same as 88-91 Si tranny either way)

    2nd - 8.26

    3rd - 5.72

    4th - 4.39

    5th - same 3.27 since I kept the Si 5th gear, but if I had kept the ZC 5th it'd be a ridiculous 3.73!!! That's a huge difference!

    Anyways see how close each number is? Like I said the closer the numbers stay together, the quicker you rip through each gear, and thus, the quicker you accelerate.

    For comparison's sake I'll do the same math with a regular 88-91 Si tranny that most of us try to get when we do a SOHC build here in the US:

    1st - 13.81

    2nd - 8.04

    3rd - 5.35

    4th - 3.98

    5th - 3.27

    And finally the DOHC Zc with it's shorter gearing, but shitty 3.88 DX-spec FD:

    1st - 12.61 (YIKES! Would take longer to go through!)

    2nd - 7.54

    3rd - 5.22

    4th - 4.00

    5th - 3.40

    So compare the numbers and see the difference? You'll note that the custom Zc/Si tranny has higher numbers, and closer to each other numbers too. This means quicker ripping through gears.

    You'll also note that even our regular 88-91 Si tranny has a clear advantage over the JDM DOHC ZC tranny too, because of the taller 3.88 FD they have. The taller FD negates the closer gears.

    Does that make sense?
  • SiWagonSiWagon Council Member
    bam-bam wrote:
    I have an Si, EX, HF, and DX trannies. Is the gear swap atraightforward? (I've built a mess of truck boxes)

    :) Yes.I've done one & I've never rebuilt a slushbox.For you it would be fine.For others go very very slooow.
    bam-bam wrote:
    I'm afraid the HF 5th would be too huge of a drop from Si 4th. Seriously, I couldn't pull 5th under about 75mph (stockd15 dpfi). Hell, you could downshift into 3rd at 70.

    You like a tranny with more pull,but it'll be OK for DDCWAGON as stated:
    DDCWAGON wrote:
    My buddy has a crx hf & i love the gearing.

    I drove a DX with a HF 5th & that's geared weaker than the Si you're talkin about..You're right about a weaker pull,but it works for highway cruising with a 10%+ boost in MPG.The only time she complained was when she had 5 people in it & going up a hill.She ran it down to 4th.
    DDCWAGON wrote:
    Where could I buy the bearing, gear & syncro.

    :cry: FOrget about it.It's cheaper to buy a used tranny than the parts.$50-$150 for a whole tranny vs. $100-2 or 3OO for 1 part.The bearing you can get from Honda.
    :D Why don't you just get a used HF tranny take the good parts & rebuild your ZC with the HF 5th gear.This way you keep ur low end accleration plus the increase highway MPG.HF trannies aren't driven as hard as DX or Si's & have lower HP engines.If you aren't mechanically inclined don't try this.For DDCWAGON...YES.The synchros fit together like a chinese puzzle box(do they still sell these?).
  • Thanks for the input guys, I considered all the options and decided to go in. So I pulled the tranny and spilt the case. It was very helpful that I had an 88 factory service manual with exploded diagrams. Once I got In It didn't take long to notice that the bearing on the main shaft at the bellhousing end was toast. At first I thought it was missing balls from the bearing but later figured out that the seperators were no more. I then decided to replace the 2 main shaft bearings along with the countershaft bearings. I got all 5 bearings + 3 seals from honda for just over $100. the diff. bearings and all the gears apeared nice. While it was out I made advance auto warranty my new clutch since the leaky mainshaft seal lubed it for me. I also replaced my flywheel for $89 It was also burnt from the heat/oil/hard launches at the strip. Anyway I was pleased with the simplicity of the internals, alot like an oversized bike trans. I kept the gearing the same and went with it. Just finished last night. Drives like a new car, silky smooth no noise or roar any more. Good old factory honda parts and some do it yourself always a pleasure. Now all I hear is my 2 1/2 " exhaust with turbo muffler thats way louder than I want. I'm going to buy a resonator to put in line tommorow.
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