Window Crank Problem
cogito
Wagonist
The window on my driver's door is extremely difficult to crank up or down. The rest of the windows in the car move much more easily. What could be causing this problem?
Comments
There is a special tool you can buy to pop off the door panel. It looks like a screwdriver but the head is split and angled a bit.
Then, once the panel is off, you should have some plastic sheeting glued to the metal with some type of adhesive. Pull this off gently and then you will have access to the crank mechanism.
Sorry but that is as far as my personal experience goes.
When I had the exterior weatherstripping replaced on the driver's door, I also asked my bodyshop guy to grease the crank and rails. Everything runs real smooth now.
I dealt with the exact same problem. My window was really bad. It would only go down about 3 inches before it would get completely stuck.
Use white lithium grease on the cranking mechanism / gears. It is difficult to get your hands up in there, but do the best you can. More importantly, you need to lube up the channels that the glass slides in. I used a spray can of silicone lube. Be sure to get the tracks that are down inside the door. I used the silicone lube on a bunch of other window parts where grease couldn't really reach.
I did all that almost 2 years ago, and it is still very smooth.
Or you can just hire a wet beaver to do it all for you.
Ain't that the truth. :twisted:
However, be careful... you might end up like that Spitzer guy in New York. :!:
Dave's right. I have the tool, but the hem of my t-shirt works better.
Also funny I should find this thread - my driver's window is difficult to crank. I assumed the track was wearing out. It may be, but once the weather warms up a little I'll lube it up as suggested.
Nah you need a 12 as well but close enough!
I have just dismantled the entire front end of my Honda City and all i have used so far are 10mm, 12mm, phillips head screw driver and long nosed pliers.
BONUS round:I used this same technique to pack the frt.LCA ball joints.
awesome idea using the syringe. I couldn't figure out a good way to get grease everywhere I wanted it, so silicon spray lube had to suffice for parts of the mechanism... When I have to re-do it some day, I'll look for your cool grease delivery method. :idea:
TIP: I'd inject this grease in earlier so the crank mech will last longer rather than wait till the window starts to rolldown BAD.
I fixed both front windows yesterday.... here's how:
0.1 Tools required:
-#2 Phillips Screwdriver
-Flathead Screwdriver
-Needle-nose Pliers (the bent ones work even better here) or a proper "retaining clip removal tool"
-10mm socket, six inch extension, ratchet
-Big Plastic Syringe for grease, OR a grease gun
-Lubes - 1 grease (for gears and tracks), 1 can spray silicone (for glass on rubber), 1 WD-40 type (for tight spots where the grease can't "flow")
-Rags!
0.2 Open the car door, sit on a low stool or bucket facing the inside of the door.
1. Remove the interior door panel -Remove the window crank handle by pushing in on the door panel until the crank axle is visible, then use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grab the back side of the u-shaped retaining clip and pull it off the shaft. Wiggle and twist while pulling the handle until it and the ring behind it are free. Next, remove 4 #2 phillips screws, then pop out the "grab handle pocket" (the part where you put your fingers to pull the door shut) by prying with the flathead screwdriver. Now work (pry) your way around the front, bottom and rear edges of the panel, popping out the little trim "plugs / clips". The top of the panel has 4 u-shaped clips holding it to the door. Pull the bottom edge of the panel about six inches away from the door and you can see one, near where the lock button comes up. Use a flat head screwdriver and pry the clip upwards, and work your way from the back edge of the door towards the front.... easy!
2. Remove the Vapor Barrier - Firstly remove the small bracket where the "grab handle pocket" was (3 #2 phillips screws). Next remove the vapor barrier by gently pulling it away from the door while cutting away at the caulk / sealant underneath. Both the plastic sheeting and the caulk can be re-used if kept in good shape - My 21 year-old caulk was still sticky and soft!
:shock:
It is an easy job to put new caulk and sheeting in anyways if need be - so easy I'll let you figure out how
3. Remove the window glass - Roll the window almost all the way down, using the crank on the shaft. There are 2 bolts (8 or 10 mm) holding the window to the "lift" (look for the white tabs attached to the glass - one is only accessable through a circular hole in the door ). Using a six-inch ratchet extension, loosen these two bolts BUT DON'T REMOVE THEM TOTALLY. The metal "lift" portion they are threaded through slides forward / back and allows the bolts to stay with the glass while the bolt heads slip out through the larger diameter of the "keyhole". Once the glass is un-bolted, tilt it forward, outwards and then pull it up and out of the door.
4. Remove the Regulator - Crank the "lift" back upwards until it is about halfway up and all the regulator parts / tracks / scissors form a straight line. Unbolt the two rear bolts, noting the position of the rear-most bolt (this is the adjustment bolt, which threads through the elongated hole), then the four bolts near the crank shaft. Note that the top-most two bolts need not be removed entirely, again loosen them only, as they will slip out the "keyholes". Grab the mechanism, rotate until the bolt heads slide out the "keyholes" then take the whole mechanism out the bottom of the door.
5. Lube Time! - Clean any rusted parts first. Then grease all the tracks, rollers, hinges and anything else that moves. Using the syringe / grease gun, inject grease into the "gearbox" (I greased the teeth of the rack it engages too). Use the light oil on the scissor hinge and the ends of the window crank shaft (note that the shaft wears away the metal into an oval shape from the repeated torque over the years). Crank the mechanism back and forth a few times to spread the lube around and to check for function / smoothness. Spray the silicone lube into the vertical rubber tracks the glass slides up / down in, working from top to bottom.
Wipe up any excess lubes, or your glass may suffer from slug trails!
6. Re-assemble! - Mostly it is the reverse of dis-assemble . Be sure to slide the glass into the rubber tracks before bolting it up. Note that the "keyhole" bolts stay with the part they thread into, making assembly easier. Keep the glass still and move the metal "lift" portion until the bolt heads slip throught the "keyholes" (ditto for the top two regulator bolts). BEFORE Re-Applying Vapor Barrier, Check the function again - now is the time for adjustments to the rear-most (adjustment) bolt if nesscesary, but for me the lube fixed all my stiffness problems :oops: - I left mine at factory position. Re-apply the Vapor Barrier or install a new one with some silicone or caulk, trim the excess with a sharp knife. Re-install the interior dool panel, starting with the top clips (hammer fist) and working your way down, then the screws. Re-install the window crank plastic ring and crank handle. Mount the spring / retainer clip on the handle ALMOST in the position it ends up in, so that the handle can be put on the shaft and in one push with the flat-head screwdriver clipped into place. Oh, and clean them greasy finger prints off the glass! :P
Suddenly you're done! And if there are no parts left over, you did a good job too!
ok peace.
I had to replace the driver's side regulator in my '91 RT, the window rocked as it went up, leaving a gap at the back top edge. Replacement was surprisingly easy once I figured out how to get it out of the door.