Love them - as low as my wagon sits the kits never hit the shock tower sheet metal.
I picked up +30whp and torque in the midrange area when I switched from a regular rechipped P28 to Uberdata set-up and tuning. Actually I picked up the +30/+30 from tuning with a V-AFC and FPR on a chipped P28. the Uberdata just got better gas mileage, and added check engine shift light and drag launch features.
Good to hear on the upper a-arms. I will look into those. Thnaks for the heads up!
My motor is a high miliage GSR with boltons and:
Jun Stage 3 cams (same as Skunk stage 2)
Portflow Ti retainers and dual springs.
Skunk2 intake manifold.
Custom dp on a DC header to clear AWD crap into 2.5 collector, no cat, custom 2.5 exhaust.
car is converted to OBD1 with a chpped P28 ecu.
Neo afc.
Things you say about the Uberdata intregue me. I definatly need to look into that. See if anyone is fluient in Uberdata in this area. I really like the idea of the CEL shift light without having to use the MSD crap.
My hp numbers were on a nonOBD setup and the car actually feels stronger now that its OBD1, but ass dynos are often wrong. I dont have access to a free dyno anymore
I did hook up a wideband the other night and I am getting really good mpg's. Sometimes I really love afc's
If I ever got serious about my wagon it's great because it's already OBD1 and that opens up Crome and Uberdata tuning for me. I just don't like pre-OBD. I can't give a specific reason other than I personally believe the 4-wire o2 sensors are better, and there are far more people who tune OBD1 ECUs as opposed to rareer pre-OBD stuff.
I dont know anyone that messes with the OBD0 around here. So unless I convert or stumble on a jdm ecu that been messed with you have to convert or go standalone.
Funny thing about what you like on the OBD1...I have an O2 delete on my program, so I dont even run an O2 sensor. It was programmed with the Skunk stage 2 specs and was really close from the word go. Originally I put it on the dyno just to make sure it was a good tune and had to add 2-3% at 8500rpms and take away 4-5% in the 1000-1500 rpm range. There was also a small spot just before vtec at 6400 where it went a tad lean that we added 2% and solved it. With the current setup we had to add and remove really close to the same amounts with a different motor. I was suprised it was that close with two completly different motor setups
the first GEN integra is not a DA those are american chassie codes the Japanese code for the car is AV1 which have all the cool goodies like the the 1 i have nice to see ARIES wagon doin good in tha hand of someone that loves the little car..
In the works now, to be completed in a month's time or so (post tax money):
- Rebuild the 1993 YS1 GS-R tranny I have sitting at the shop with all new bearings, seals, etc. and swap out the YS1 LS currently in there. I plan on using the 5th gear from either my LS or a trashed YS1 LS tranny (since mine is still good) so I have lower highway cruising rpm than the regular GS-R which equals the short-ass gearing of an ITR/B16A tranny. *Possibly* a helical LSD if I come across a good deal.
- Replace AZ Race Machine engine mounts with anodized black HASport units with softer 62A street poly
- Replace shift linkages with new HASports as current linkages have worn bushings
- Swap out driver's seat with a non torn version (in the works)
Those are my main concerns right now. Eventually the last things I can think of are all new side moldings as far as asthetics goes. I think it's a clean wagon, but there are cleaner out there - some on this forum. It's not a museum piece like my 1992 CX, so daily driving will eventually yield some wear and tear, unlike the EG which looks as though it was just finished yesterday, which was actually 7 years ago/2002.
<---- is not worthy that color combo on those color matched wheels is sick. the color,stance,wheel choice, body being as straight and clean as it is as good as it gets. major props on the car how is the ride quality with it that low. id like to drop mine more but i bought it as my "family" car to transport my son around and dont want trash my ride all together...
<---- is not worthy that color combo on those color matched wheels is sick. the color,stance,wheel choice, body being as straight and clean as it is as good as it gets. major props on the car how is the ride quality with it that low. id like to drop mine more but i bought it as my "family" car to transport my son around and dont want trash my ride all together...
Well Baby J and bam bam have both driven my car, so they could probably back me in saying that the car actually rides very smooth. It rode like shit on the F2 coil-overs (came on the car at purchase) honestly. I've got a 5 month old son too, so his brain stem would have been snapped had I left the F2s in place. The Eibach pro Street S set-up rides amazing IMO. The wagon is my daily driver, family hauler. My son rides in it every day - this is why I'm also opting for the softer engine mounts.
Believe me in working at a Honda/Acura only shop for 9 years now I've installed/driven countless set-ups. Amongst the best ride quality wise have been these Eibachs, some Neuspeed/Bilstein full coil-overs I owned on my wife's EG, and some Progress full coil-overs on an Integra I installed for a customer. All cars sat as low, or lower than my wago pictured.
Other great set-ups ride-wise that did not sit nearly as low would be Tein S-Techs, Neuspeed Sport (greens, NOT yellow "Race"), Eibach Pro Kit springs paired with KYB GR-2 shocks. These set-ups are cheap and ride amazingly well, but won't sit much lower than stock. On wagons it's particularly tricky seeing as how we have to mod-to-fit any shock/spring combos or else the ass end sits way too low (when using wagon rear shocks) or too high (when using non-wagon) EF shocks.
It's impossible IMO to get the same ride quality out of linear spring'd coil-over sleeve set-ups on whatever shocks - even Konis. Don't get me wrong - I love my Konis on my EG - it's just that the linear spring hinders every day real world bump-soaking ability. The high end softer rate full threaded body coil-overs utilize progressive rate springs or helper springs to achieve a smoother ride which then stiffens up when loaded upon whilst turning.
<---- is not worthy that color combo on those color matched wheels is sick. the color,stance,wheel choice, body being as straight and clean as it is as good as it gets. major props on the car how is the ride quality with it that low. id like to drop mine more but i bought it as my "family" car to transport my son around and dont want trash my ride all together...
Well Baby J and bam bam have both driven my car, so they could probably back me in saying that the car actually rides very smooth. It rode like shit on the F2 coil-overs (came on the car at purchase) honestly. I've got a 5 month old son too, so his brain stem would have been snapped had I left the F2s in place. The Eibach pro Street S set-up rides amazing IMO. The wagon is my daily driver, family hauler. My son rides in it every day - this is why I'm also opting for the softer engine mounts.
Believe me in working at a Honda/Acura only shop for 9 years now I've installed/driven countless set-ups. Amongst the best ride quality wise have been these Eibachs, some Neuspeed/Bilstein full coil-overs I owned on my wife's EG, and some Progress full coil-overs on an Integra I installed for a customer. All cars sat as low, or lower than my wago pictured.
Other great set-ups ride-wise that did not sit nearly as low would be Tein S-Techs, Neuspeed Sport (greens, NOT yellow "Race"), Eibach Pro Kit springs paired with KYB GR-2 shocks. These set-ups are cheap and ride amazingly well, but won't sit much lower than stock. On wagons it's particularly tricky seeing as how we have to mod-to-fit any shock/spring combos or else the ass end sits way too low (when using wagon rear shocks) or too high (when using non-wagon) EF shocks.
It's impossible IMO to get the same ride quality out of linear spring'd coil-over sleeve set-ups on whatever shocks - even Konis. Don't get me wrong - I love my Konis on my EG - it's just that the linear spring hinders every day real world bump-soaking ability. The high end softer rate full threaded body coil-overs utilize progressive rate springs or helper springs to achieve a smoother ride which then stiffens up when loaded upon whilst turning.
I'm rambling...
no thats why i was asking, i just dont want o trade off ride quality for looks at this point in the game i have one car now that rides like shit i just dont want two, lol but that makes me feel better that you have a little one riding in the car as well so your in the same boat and i know what you mean about riding in customer cars that will bust your kindneys when driving down a smooth road, thanks for your input thats what i was looking for.
Well some parts came in, so the next thing is finding the time to do the work.
Following parts are 1993 YS1 GS-R transmission, all new genuine Honda/Acura bearings and seals for it, new HASport anodized black EFB1 mount kit, new HASport shift linkages, and a Skunk2 short shifter. All I lack are the two shifter linkage stabilizer bar poly bushings, and the countershaft and mainshaft 5th gears from a YS1 LS. I'm not going to rob them from my current LS, so I'm either looking for a bad YS1 LS tranny or possibly will end up buying new ones from Acura.
So I will likely have some good condition AZ Race machine mounts (they are like 70A poly - I opted for softer 62A HASports by choice) and a no-grinds YS1 LS tranny for sale soon. The LS tranny has no grinds, but in all honesty I can hear what are the begginings of bearing noise likely from the countershaft top bearings. I could easily have sold it without disclosing the bearing noise because it's pretty much non existant to those who don't know what to listen for, but I'm not a dishonest seller. This isn't so much a classifieds/for sale topic so I'll just discuss that in the dedicated topic when the time comes.
nice dude.
iare you pulling the motor completely out to do the tranny swap?
im doing one here very very soon, and wasnt sure if it would be easier to just pull the whole motor out or just pull the tranny side mount and get at it..
nice dude.
iare you pulling the motor completely out to do the tranny swap?
im doing one here very very soon, and wasnt sure if it would be easier to just pull the whole motor out or just pull the tranny side mount and get at it..
A clutch/tranny job is easier and faster IMO by just pulling the tranny out. If I were on my back in my driveway it would definately be more of a PITA when trying to either remove the tranny or get it snugged back up to the engine block. I've done that ONCE before at a friend's house and I'll never do it again. You don't have much strength on your side when trying to line the tranny up, even after using a clutch alignment tool to insure the clutch disc and mainshaft were lined up properly.
As far as the mount kit swap goes while the tranny is out the HASport topside mount will go on. Then again I'm using a lift and a hydraulic tranny jack, so it'll be easier off the bat.From there it's not much harder to swap out the rear bracket, and then from the top swap out the last remaining AZ timing side mount for the new HASport one.
Comments
Good to hear on the upper a-arms. I will look into those. Thnaks for the heads up!
My motor is a high miliage GSR with boltons and:
Jun Stage 3 cams (same as Skunk stage 2)
Portflow Ti retainers and dual springs.
Skunk2 intake manifold.
Custom dp on a DC header to clear AWD crap into 2.5 collector, no cat, custom 2.5 exhaust.
car is converted to OBD1 with a chpped P28 ecu.
Neo afc.
Things you say about the Uberdata intregue me. I definatly need to look into that. See if anyone is fluient in Uberdata in this area. I really like the idea of the CEL shift light without having to use the MSD crap.
My hp numbers were on a nonOBD setup and the car actually feels stronger now that its OBD1, but ass dynos are often wrong. I dont have access to a free dyno anymore
I did hook up a wideband the other night and I am getting really good mpg's. Sometimes I really love afc's
If I ever got serious about my wagon it's great because it's already OBD1 and that opens up Crome and Uberdata tuning for me. I just don't like pre-OBD. I can't give a specific reason other than I personally believe the 4-wire o2 sensors are better, and there are far more people who tune OBD1 ECUs as opposed to rareer pre-OBD stuff.
Funny thing about what you like on the OBD1...I have an O2 delete on my program, so I dont even run an O2 sensor. It was programmed with the Skunk stage 2 specs and was really close from the word go. Originally I put it on the dyno just to make sure it was a good tune and had to add 2-3% at 8500rpms and take away 4-5% in the 1000-1500 rpm range. There was also a small spot just before vtec at 6400 where it went a tad lean that we added 2% and solved it. With the current setup we had to add and remove really close to the same amounts with a different motor. I was suprised it was that close with two completly different motor setups
36, huh? Got me beat
your wagon is sooo clean!
That's not saying much, is it?
:P
ROFL...
can't blame him :P
Ditto.
In the works now, to be completed in a month's time or so (post tax money):
- Rebuild the 1993 YS1 GS-R tranny I have sitting at the shop with all new bearings, seals, etc. and swap out the YS1 LS currently in there. I plan on using the 5th gear from either my LS or a trashed YS1 LS tranny (since mine is still good) so I have lower highway cruising rpm than the regular GS-R which equals the short-ass gearing of an ITR/B16A tranny. *Possibly* a helical LSD if I come across a good deal.
- Replace AZ Race Machine engine mounts with anodized black HASport units with softer 62A street poly
- Replace shift linkages with new HASports as current linkages have worn bushings
- Swap out driver's seat with a non torn version (in the works)
Those are my main concerns right now. Eventually the last things I can think of are all new side moldings as far as asthetics goes. I think it's a clean wagon, but there are cleaner out there - some on this forum. It's not a museum piece like my 1992 CX, so daily driving will eventually yield some wear and tear, unlike the EG which looks as though it was just finished yesterday, which was actually 7 years ago/2002.
Well Baby J and bam bam have both driven my car, so they could probably back me in saying that the car actually rides very smooth. It rode like shit on the F2 coil-overs (came on the car at purchase) honestly. I've got a 5 month old son too, so his brain stem would have been snapped had I left the F2s in place. The Eibach pro Street S set-up rides amazing IMO. The wagon is my daily driver, family hauler. My son rides in it every day - this is why I'm also opting for the softer engine mounts.
Believe me in working at a Honda/Acura only shop for 9 years now I've installed/driven countless set-ups. Amongst the best ride quality wise have been these Eibachs, some Neuspeed/Bilstein full coil-overs I owned on my wife's EG, and some Progress full coil-overs on an Integra I installed for a customer. All cars sat as low, or lower than my wago pictured.
Other great set-ups ride-wise that did not sit nearly as low would be Tein S-Techs, Neuspeed Sport (greens, NOT yellow "Race"), Eibach Pro Kit springs paired with KYB GR-2 shocks. These set-ups are cheap and ride amazingly well, but won't sit much lower than stock. On wagons it's particularly tricky seeing as how we have to mod-to-fit any shock/spring combos or else the ass end sits way too low (when using wagon rear shocks) or too high (when using non-wagon) EF shocks.
It's impossible IMO to get the same ride quality out of linear spring'd coil-over sleeve set-ups on whatever shocks - even Konis. Don't get me wrong - I love my Konis on my EG - it's just that the linear spring hinders every day real world bump-soaking ability. The high end softer rate full threaded body coil-overs utilize progressive rate springs or helper springs to achieve a smoother ride which then stiffens up when loaded upon whilst turning.
I'm rambling...
no thats why i was asking, i just dont want o trade off ride quality for looks at this point in the game i have one car now that rides like shit i just dont want two, lol but that makes me feel better that you have a little one riding in the car as well so your in the same boat and i know what you mean about riding in customer cars that will bust your kindneys when driving down a smooth road, thanks for your input thats what i was looking for.
Following parts are 1993 YS1 GS-R transmission, all new genuine Honda/Acura bearings and seals for it, new HASport anodized black EFB1 mount kit, new HASport shift linkages, and a Skunk2 short shifter. All I lack are the two shifter linkage stabilizer bar poly bushings, and the countershaft and mainshaft 5th gears from a YS1 LS. I'm not going to rob them from my current LS, so I'm either looking for a bad YS1 LS tranny or possibly will end up buying new ones from Acura.
So I will likely have some good condition AZ Race machine mounts (they are like 70A poly - I opted for softer 62A HASports by choice) and a no-grinds YS1 LS tranny for sale soon. The LS tranny has no grinds, but in all honesty I can hear what are the begginings of bearing noise likely from the countershaft top bearings. I could easily have sold it without disclosing the bearing noise because it's pretty much non existant to those who don't know what to listen for, but I'm not a dishonest seller. This isn't so much a classifieds/for sale topic so I'll just discuss that in the dedicated topic when the time comes.
Anywhoo can't wait to drop it all in.
iare you pulling the motor completely out to do the tranny swap?
im doing one here very very soon, and wasnt sure if it would be easier to just pull the whole motor out or just pull the tranny side mount and get at it..
A clutch/tranny job is easier and faster IMO by just pulling the tranny out. If I were on my back in my driveway it would definately be more of a PITA when trying to either remove the tranny or get it snugged back up to the engine block. I've done that ONCE before at a friend's house and I'll never do it again. You don't have much strength on your side when trying to line the tranny up, even after using a clutch alignment tool to insure the clutch disc and mainshaft were lined up properly.
As far as the mount kit swap goes while the tranny is out the HASport topside mount will go on. Then again I'm using a lift and a hydraulic tranny jack, so it'll be easier off the bat.From there it's not much harder to swap out the rear bracket, and then from the top swap out the last remaining AZ timing side mount for the new HASport one.