OK ...U-joint fix - HERE IT IS
farfetched
Wagonist
Disclaimer: I will not be responsible for anyone's F/Ups...due to inexperience or inability to perform moderate mechanical repairs/modifications. Also, I will not be responsible if your fix fails due to
incorrect measurements or use of welding equipment!
I could have protected my repair by not posting it here at all. Please respect the autor, and do not try to make profit from it. Thank you!
Here it is...
The process involves tack welding u-joints in place after meticulous measurements - VERY critical to get measurements right...
As I said 430-10B is the U-joint used in this modification. From Rockford Drive Lines
I am not going to submerge in the process of removing u-joint, because if one cannot remove then he/she should not attempt this fix/mod at all.
Let us begin
After you get this (2) u-joints, simply use a bench vise to press them in somewhat equal on either side. After initial setting, get a filler gauge and cannot stress enough very carefully measure the gap (supplied in drawing) while setting u-joints with help of hammer and bench vise. When you think you got it right, RE-MEASURE it again to be sure that the GAP is within .001" on both sides. While setting u-joints DO NOT over tighten vise jaws to prevent overloading u-joint caps. When you set -u-joints, you must have tight but free moving u-joint...
Detail of the picture(supplied as a drawing)
When u-joint is set, you will notice that inner edge of u-joint retaining clip groove(closest to the trunnion) is very close to propeller shaft yoke ear. That is where you will have to measure the gap and adjust the gas as necessary. Re-check it again after final settings...THE GAP YOU WILL GET MAY VARY FROM MY MEASUREMENTS. IT MUST BE EQUAL ON BOTH SIDE OF PROPELLER SHAFT YOKE.
Welding
I have a Miller welder that can weld very thin metal or up to 1/4" metal making very high quality welds.
It is important to know what you're doing !!!
First, cover grease fitting hole with something to prevent welding debris from getting inside (bad for bearings) . I used a stubby metal screw to cover the hole. After final GAP check, proceed to tack weld u-joint caps in propeller shaft yokes. I've done 4 welds (CROSS PATTERN). You must build up enough material to secure u-joint cap in place. Do not over heat u-joint cap, distortion of cap/yoke will take place. Weld one side and then re-check the gap on the other side (to be sure it hasn't jumped), weld the other side. I've put one tack weld and re-checked everything, this way if something goes wrong you can re-doint...
I almost forgot, do not forget to sping the shaft (ballance it) after the repair
Like I said, it is not a difficult job, but critical attention to measurements must be employed as well good welding skills !
incorrect measurements or use of welding equipment!
I could have protected my repair by not posting it here at all. Please respect the autor, and do not try to make profit from it. Thank you!
Here it is...
The process involves tack welding u-joints in place after meticulous measurements - VERY critical to get measurements right...
As I said 430-10B is the U-joint used in this modification. From Rockford Drive Lines
I am not going to submerge in the process of removing u-joint, because if one cannot remove then he/she should not attempt this fix/mod at all.
Let us begin
After you get this (2) u-joints, simply use a bench vise to press them in somewhat equal on either side. After initial setting, get a filler gauge and cannot stress enough very carefully measure the gap (supplied in drawing) while setting u-joints with help of hammer and bench vise. When you think you got it right, RE-MEASURE it again to be sure that the GAP is within .001" on both sides. While setting u-joints DO NOT over tighten vise jaws to prevent overloading u-joint caps. When you set -u-joints, you must have tight but free moving u-joint...
Detail of the picture(supplied as a drawing)
When u-joint is set, you will notice that inner edge of u-joint retaining clip groove(closest to the trunnion) is very close to propeller shaft yoke ear. That is where you will have to measure the gap and adjust the gas as necessary. Re-check it again after final settings...THE GAP YOU WILL GET MAY VARY FROM MY MEASUREMENTS. IT MUST BE EQUAL ON BOTH SIDE OF PROPELLER SHAFT YOKE.
Welding
I have a Miller welder that can weld very thin metal or up to 1/4" metal making very high quality welds.
It is important to know what you're doing !!!
First, cover grease fitting hole with something to prevent welding debris from getting inside (bad for bearings) . I used a stubby metal screw to cover the hole. After final GAP check, proceed to tack weld u-joint caps in propeller shaft yokes. I've done 4 welds (CROSS PATTERN). You must build up enough material to secure u-joint cap in place. Do not over heat u-joint cap, distortion of cap/yoke will take place. Weld one side and then re-check the gap on the other side (to be sure it hasn't jumped), weld the other side. I've put one tack weld and re-checked everything, this way if something goes wrong you can re-doint...
I almost forgot, do not forget to sping the shaft (ballance it) after the repair
Like I said, it is not a difficult job, but critical attention to measurements must be employed as well good welding skills !
Comments
Cheers!
Again GREAT INFO!
Do you have any pictures of the welds? From what I'm picturing in my mind you're welding the caps in from the outside of the ujoint. When you say a cross pattern, what do you mean?
I made some uber-sweet paint pictures of my own, but my image host is down right now so I guess I'll try again later.
Regarding welding yes cross pattern? meaning that you werd in four equaly spaced places . Correct, weld on outside of yoke ear inside the cap opening(top of u-joint cap)I held wire 2-3 sec when welded...it may vary depending on welder.
cheers!