A new lease on life 91 RT T.I Redemption
klum
Senior Wagonist
picked it up from user blue boy
had to pop this off to change the hatch hinge
This is just the pictures i have on my phone
So far I've
Replaced the steering wheel with the oe from my higher mileage wagon
replaced the spark plugs and wires
Distributor cap and rotor
i adjusted the instrument gauge lights to red (think I may go green )
bought Oil and have a oe honda filter to use
new stereo
JVC
speakers
Kenwood
+ pigtail adapter
I'll be doing a running total on it will update after i look at receipts
had to pop this off to change the hatch hinge
This is just the pictures i have on my phone
So far I've
Replaced the steering wheel with the oe from my higher mileage wagon
replaced the spark plugs and wires
Distributor cap and rotor
i adjusted the instrument gauge lights to red (think I may go green )
bought Oil and have a oe honda filter to use
new stereo
JVC
speakers
Kenwood
+ pigtail adapter
I'll be doing a running total on it will update after i look at receipts
Comments
Car : $400
Registration: $106
Radio + Pig Tail adapter : $90
Spare keys : $ 7
Oil 10w-40 ( High Mileage Synthetic Blend ) : $18
Filter : Already had OEM Honda ($8)
Wipers all 3 : $12 ( Pnp got new wiper off Ej6 )
Dizzy Cap / Rotor : $ 30
Hid Kit : $20
Accent LED's : $7 ( so far ) Corner / map / license plate
Valve Cover Gasket Kit : $ 30($40)
-PB Blast ( for future reasons )
-Grey Seal Permatex -$10
O2 Sensor : $37
Cat Direct Bolt on : $247 ( on the way )
Trunk Shocks : ( not installed yet ) $26 - Am Hopeful they lift the trunk when popped I can't even press them down by hand !
USB outlet - Same as my other wagon dual port but this one has LEDs : $8 ( Not installed yet )
=$1048 Might audit after gathering receipts
I also grabbed a set of window visors off ebay for like $38 If I don't put them on my other wagon I will put them on here and add to the total.
People on here were making this replacement a pain in the ass and time consuming I did mine in about 30 minutes.
here they are side by side.
popped the interior panels around the shock bolt to expose the wrenchable part
pop off the cover for the two ten m on the top
popped out
remove the top two ten mms and install your new shock - you may need to spin them around to get them to line up on the ball joint side.
Install the ball joint and re attach the interior pieces being careful not to break any of the tabs like i did
now just pop the new shock into place - you may need to over lift the wagon hatch a bit youll see when you get there!
walla
put top covers back on and your done.
i used red because its going to be easier to draw and trace on and it wont be seen so why not.
I'll get around to it in a day or two , but for now I'm focused on getting the car smogged
So I installed the "Direct Fit" magnaflow that came in . now I don't know if maybe california always had different smog laws so maybe california civics came with a different sized cat than the other 49 states. But! this cat is about 3" too short.
And after mounted up the gasket still has visible gaps - I'll spin the flange a few times and try all possible setups but I'm fairly certain it will be a waste of time.
+$1.50 for foam sheets
+$5.00 for misc nuts and bolts for cat
+$0.00 Cat arrived ( already included in above price )
+$0.00 rear hatch shocks installed.
1048 + 6.50 =
$1054.50 total as of 10/31/16
I'd have driven up there for that!
Did you figure out the issues?
yea a lot of things hadn't been replaced in many years the o2 sensor for instance was the oem one.
I passed smog +$70
And I dont have pics but I got LED " projector" bulbs for the reverse lamp +$5
$1054+70 = $1124
+$5 = $1129
So all in all it cost about $500 to smog and register the car in CA
in hindsight letting my friend skate the fender was a bad idea because some asshole at all the pick and pulls ive gone to ( over 5 each had blue wagons decent condition as per row 52 ) were all busted out worse than this these are after i smogged it
door needed to be replaced , cars covered in little dings and deep scratches no better way to cover it up than getting shitty!
rear shocks were blown
in the hatch
simple things the car was misfiring and would die at idle at times
replaced
sparkplugs
wires
cap n rotor
wires
oil / filter
got hid kit
led dress lights
this was fun! and also the point i realized I probably wasn't going to try to fix this and sell it for profit like i thought at first lol.
bad door
new door
window had tint but i got rid of it
painted a strip since all the doors i saw were dented or missing molding the tape was there because i was washing the car
what i was talking about with the fender lol there was 3 blue wagons around i just never got around to them and when i did they were all fucked off like this go figure.
i found a guy with one in LA but idk if iwill go thru with it or just wait it out , also had corner lenses which i need as well. the hood I think will be bondo'd and sprayed white like my other honda I might as well twin them up
I'll try to write up a list of things this car needs and post that up , it runs really poorly but its reliable next up is running obd 1 injectors i think that will solve the misfire stay tuned.
If you thought my other build was slow brace your selves its about to get about 2 times slower lol.
sorry modz i found my thread
comparison to the ones i took out , looks like they never been inspected in 200k miles lol
I sprayed them with b12 and scrubbed the shit out of the obd1s then cleared the injector filters out on them
obd0
obd 1 after clean
splice action
I plan on swapping my dizzys to see if that fixes the misfire and running rich issue so that will happen tomorrow.
Other thing im working on is the climate control doesnt switch to anything but the two defrost options.
I took it apart and i see the lines getting kinked but have yet to figure out whats missing, good thing i got another wagon again ill take it apart and see if i can solve the problem .
Thanks for checking in.
Car died on the freeway at about 70 mph i thought it was the rings finally failing because it backfired and a huge plume of smoke barreled out, then when i got off the freeway i noticed the entire wheel well and under carriage cover or splash shield was covered in oil.
I tested the compression dry and cold hit 140-150 across the board which isnt the best I dont think ( anyone know what range we're supposed to be in? ) i just figured since its within about 10% of eachother they are fine and rings are fine. I noticed oil in every cylinder on all the plugs.
That made me think my rings were bad but since the compression test held air fine and was similar i decided those must be fine.
So i check the dizzy like I originally planned, got the cap off and gave the rotor a tug and it spun freely. ( rotor keeper screw was out )
I put the rotor back on and started right up but it ran fairly rough.
I decided it earned a tune up.
And since i decided its headgasket and rings were fine I figure its the valve seals.
Here's what I did so far
New plugs, cap, rotor, then oil and filter. Hopefully the seals are whats causing the smoke my leslie valve keeper tool as seen here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEe8C5u1LWg
I got some of the valve springs loose and replaced a few seals so far but not having a proper tool and trying the zip tie method seems more dangerous than worth while as I had a few zip ties fail. I dont need akeeper to shoot into my eye or be misplaced if I use goggles lol.
Will try to do a write up because I haven't much discussion on this subject and with all f our wagons having over 200k for the most part I think its a worth while thing to check, help preserve the motor.
Feel like I got a second chance here with this motor as I was ready to swap it out if I had some help from friends.
Seals is a way easier solution if it turns out to be mine.
thanks for checking in.
I fear I blew something when the rotor failed anybody know if thats possible ?
I just cant figure out how so much oil sprayed out the exhaust or why theres so much oil in the tiing belt area . i admit i never looked in there so it could have always been like that.
cam shaft orings come in tomorrow or thursday and ill wrap up the head , change the oil and filter and start her up.
+$5 = $1129
So all in all it cost about $500 to smog and register the car in CA
35$ valve cover kit
$15 orings
$45 valve seals
$8 plugs
$30 cap n rotor
$45 new too lisle valve keeper
$180 m12 Milwaukee electric rachet.2 batteries and charger
$15 oil
$8 oil filter
$390ish off the top of my head ~$1520
+window visors $35 , door $40 I think
~$1600
we'll see i just cranked it up i took my time with it and i hope my efforts arent for nothin .
although the second cyl in from the dizzy is showing watered down oil i'm curious if the car just needs to be driven a bit first to clear the shit out or if i do infact have a bad headgasket or something of that nature.
i'd like to think there would me more tall tail signs. maybe i should have retorqued the head bolts down before doing the valve cover gasket lol
heres a cool pic i took recently though
Thanks, I'm enjoying plowing over speed bumps forsure lol.
It still burns oil I think the rings are shot so I might be buying a block or something soon to build for a spare since this ones on its way out.
finally sourced the final pieces needed to complete the exterior!
rear pass door molding ( I got replacement stickers thanks to foxdesign )
and a driver side fender and set of corner lights .
I will put a write up in the electronics section. thanks