Bad Start Relay - not the solenoid.
jb2wheels
Wagonist
I've been chasing an intermittent "no-crank" (starter does not spin) problem on my 90 2WD 5sp wagon for, literally, a couple of years.
Push in clutch, turn key, relays click and dash lights do their dance but the starter would not engage. Maybe 1 out of 5 times car would not crank but it's gotten worse lately.
Seemed more inclined to not crank after a quick stop like dropping of kids or stepping into the quick mart but happened a couple of times after sitting all night, too.
I replaced:
- battery (maybe twice...)
- starter - multiple times with new, rebuilt and junkyard starters
- battery cables - all the big ones between the battery and ground/enginetrans/starter
- main relay because along the way I also experienced "spin but no start when hot" issues
I did not replace the ignition or clutch switch because I always got expected responses from dash and relays clicking by my feet.
Car would always bump start without issue (except during the "bad main relay" period...).
Bottom line - I think it's the start relay:
Clearly some water intrusion but I have no idea where when or how - car has no other signs of flood damage but my windshield drips in my lap when it rains...
this is the problem area - lots of corrosion and this connects the moving contact to the "switched hot output" lead"
contacts don't look too bad (I bent the parts to look at contacts):
picture of case for reference:
I resisted changing this relay even after replacing batteries/starters/cables because I could hear it click every time.
Clearly, the magnet side works but sometimes the volts don't flow...
For clarity, this is the "starter relay" mounted just above the hood release on MT cars. I don't think AT cars have it.
Denso 056700-8570.
I bought my replacement from Rock Auto for roughly $25 shipped. AIRTEX / WELLS 1R1025 {#19228, 39797SE3003, 88922795} Main Relay
The replacement Airtex relay I got from Rock Auto was also labeled Denso 056700-8570 and came with the metal bracket
Installation is 10 minutes including time to find one of the dozen or so 10mm wrenches I have.
I just replaced it today so time will tell if this is really the problem, but it's the first part I replaced that showed any signs of damage.
Push in clutch, turn key, relays click and dash lights do their dance but the starter would not engage. Maybe 1 out of 5 times car would not crank but it's gotten worse lately.
Seemed more inclined to not crank after a quick stop like dropping of kids or stepping into the quick mart but happened a couple of times after sitting all night, too.
I replaced:
- battery (maybe twice...)
- starter - multiple times with new, rebuilt and junkyard starters
- battery cables - all the big ones between the battery and ground/enginetrans/starter
- main relay because along the way I also experienced "spin but no start when hot" issues
I did not replace the ignition or clutch switch because I always got expected responses from dash and relays clicking by my feet.
Car would always bump start without issue (except during the "bad main relay" period...).
Bottom line - I think it's the start relay:
Clearly some water intrusion but I have no idea where when or how - car has no other signs of flood damage but my windshield drips in my lap when it rains...
this is the problem area - lots of corrosion and this connects the moving contact to the "switched hot output" lead"
contacts don't look too bad (I bent the parts to look at contacts):
picture of case for reference:
I resisted changing this relay even after replacing batteries/starters/cables because I could hear it click every time.
Clearly, the magnet side works but sometimes the volts don't flow...
For clarity, this is the "starter relay" mounted just above the hood release on MT cars. I don't think AT cars have it.
Denso 056700-8570.
I bought my replacement from Rock Auto for roughly $25 shipped. AIRTEX / WELLS 1R1025 {#19228, 39797SE3003, 88922795} Main Relay
The replacement Airtex relay I got from Rock Auto was also labeled Denso 056700-8570 and came with the metal bracket
Installation is 10 minutes including time to find one of the dozen or so 10mm wrenches I have.
I just replaced it today so time will tell if this is really the problem, but it's the first part I replaced that showed any signs of damage.
Comments
Here's a new twist: sometimes it helps to hold the key in the start position for a second or two. What's up with that?
I noticed that once in a while, too - delayed reaction to the key twist. Maybe the switch is worn, too? I'll pay more attention going forward and see if it happens again. I did not change my switch.
On the plus side - almost 2 weeks with no "no crank" issues for me.