A Disadvantage to Disengaging RWD

MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
in Engine & Drivetrain
Every year, after the snow melts, I remove the studded snow tires from my RTs and replace them with summer tires. Since the summer tires are not perfectly matched, I disengage the rear wheel drive. Yesterday was the day, swapped the tires, then got under the hood. When I loosened the "stopper bolt" that locks the selector lever, I noticed it didn't turn all that freely. I backed it out about a turn and a half, then switched the lever, rocking the car a little while in gear. After switching the lever, I started to tighten the lock bolt. Almost immediately the HEAD SHEARED OFF! This was not due to over tightening, it hadn't gotten that far. Anyway, I'm totally screwed now.
I'm working on a process involving a very long center punch and an equally long 5/32 left-hand drill, hoping to back the broken stud out. Does anyone here have any suggestions that don't involve pulling the motor? PLEASE!

Comments

  • dove grey 64dove grey 64 Wagonist
    Where abouts did the head of the bolt shear off? Normally I sit a nut ontop of the stud and then weld into the nuts hole to join it to the stud, its a tight space back there but you should be able to do that.
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  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    Dove grey's got it. The other option is to use a counter-sunk drill bit that will run in reverse and remove the stud if it's not rusted in.

    EDIT: not counter-sunk - reverse drill bit.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIAAXTUcwRU
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    dove grey 64 wrote: »
    Where abouts did the head of the bolt shear off? Normally I sit a nut ontop of the stud and then weld into the nuts hole to join it to the stud, its a tight space back there but you should be able to do that.

    I've used that trick before with great success. Unfortunately, unless I can remove the selector lever, I will just end up with the nut and stud welded to the lever, making matters even worse. The access, as you probably know, is really bad. It's hard to even see. BTW, is that an Aloris tool holder in the pic?
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    Haydz wrote: »
    Dove grey's got it. The other option is to use a counter-sunk drill bit that will run in reverse and remove the stud if it's not rusted in.

    EDIT: not counter-sunk - reverse drill bit.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIAAXTUcwRU

    That's what I meant by left-hand drill bit, it cuts in the reverse direction and, if I'm very lucky, will grab and back the stud out.
  • truckslammertruckslammer Moderator
    All of those should work but you could also use the left hand drill bit to drill a pilot hole to thread in a smaller bolt or screw and back out the stud that way.
  • dove grey 64dove grey 64 Wagonist
    MrWhoopee wrote: »
    I've used that trick before with great success. Unfortunately, unless I can remove the selector lever, I will just end up with the nut and stud welded to the lever, making matters even worse. The access, as you probably know, is really bad. It's hard to even see. BTW, is that an Aloris tool holder in the pic?
    No idea if its an aloris tool holder, just grabbed a pic incase my description wasnt enough. True about the lever but thats why I was curious as to how much of the stud was left. Access is easier for you guys as ours are twin carb and we have to remove the air filter from the carbs to gain access to the lever from the top unless its on a hoist, then access from below is manageable.
    Either way good luck with the stud removal, keep us updated with how it works out
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    There have been two instances of this lately on here. I'm no good at searching, but the patch involved fabbing a plate to lock the selector in place.
  • civtec350civtec350 Wagonist
    [h=2]how to: 5 minute repair for broken 4wd lever stud[/h]
    i broke my stud while rebuilding my transfer case the other day

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    i used a piece of shelving and drilled 2 holes in it, and notched it for the speed sensor.


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    i used the existing hole for the speed sensor hold down to secure the strap into place.

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    it works great with no play. if i ever have the need to move the lever into 2wd i would have to take the bolt out and make a longer strap if i wanted it to be clamped down.




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  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    civtec350 wrote: »
    how to: 5 minute repair for broken 4wd lever stud

    i broke my stud while rebuilding my transfer case the other day
    i used a piece of shelving and drilled 2 holes in it, and notched it for the speed sensor.
    i used the existing hole for the speed sensor hold down to secure the strap into place.
    it works great with no play. if i ever have the need to move the lever into 2wd i would have to take the bolt out and make a longer strap if i wanted it to be clamped down.


    I like your creative solution. If I had the tranny out of the car, I would have no problem removing the stud as in message #2 above. I am currently driving in FWD without the lever being locked. I'm not worried about it jumping INTO 4WD. I suspect it would jump OUT under load, but perhaps not. I've been considering trying to rig a cable linkage that would allow me to switch in and out from the driver's seat, but I've ordered the hardware for an attempt at removing the stud.
  • dove grey 64dove grey 64 Wagonist
    MrWhoopee wrote: »
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    I like your creative solution. If I had the tranny out of the car, I would have no problem removing the stud as in message #2 above. I am currently driving in FWD without the lever being locked. I'm not worried about it jumping INTO 4WD. I suspect it would jump OUT under load, but perhaps not. I've been considering trying to rig a cable linkage that would allow me to switch in and out from the driver's seat, but I've ordered the hardware for an attempt at removing the stud.
    I've had similar thoughts but using a central locking door actuator to move it from 2wd> 4wd and vice versa with the press of a button
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    SUCCESS!!! First, I made an extended center-punch and attempted to punch the center of the broken stud. Then, using the 5/32 left hand drill and an 18 in. extended drill chuck, I attempted to grab and back the stud out. No joy, it was seized in there way too solidly and the drill just kept walking off into the aluminum. After several months and various attempts, I realized that my only hope was to drill another hole in the aluminum next to the stud and tap it. This I attempted yesterday. Fortunately, there was enough metal to allow this without breaking through. I used a 6mm flange head socket screw to secure the lever and everything is cool. Because of the offset to one side, the lever does not have full travel in the disengage direction, but I can just remove the bolt when I want to disengage. I am very happy and relieved.
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