1990 Wagon Intermittent No Start
jb2wheels
Wagonist
I have a 90 2WD 5sp wagon with about 240k on it. Basically bone stock. I've been chasing an intermittent no-start (no crank) problem for a while.
Basic symptom: won't crank, usually when hot like after driving for 20+ minutes and trying to restart after 5 or 10 minutes parked. Never noticed it cold.
"No crank" as in:
- push in clutch
- turn key
- all the relays by my left foot under the dash click as expected
- dash lights click as expected
- stater does not spin and all and no solenoid click
Things I've replaced:
- starters - 2 different replacements, 1 was actually bad and would never crank
- battery
- battery cables
-- grounds from battery to frame and battery to engine
-- positive from battery to starter and battery to fuse box (been a while, pretty sure it goes to the fuse box
I have no charging issues.
I don't believe it's a main relay problem since it's a "no-crank" problem and not a "crank but no start" but maybe you can convince me otherwise.
I don't believe it's a problem with the clutch pedal idiot switch because pushing the clutch pedal up and down cycles all the relays as expected
I don't think there's a starter relay of some sort between the key switch and the solenoid, is there? I don't see one on my wiring diagrams.
I think the key switch is all that's left to replace.
Any thoughts/comments/advice or similar experiences before I cough another $50 for a parts (key switch) that won't fix the problem?
Basic symptom: won't crank, usually when hot like after driving for 20+ minutes and trying to restart after 5 or 10 minutes parked. Never noticed it cold.
"No crank" as in:
- push in clutch
- turn key
- all the relays by my left foot under the dash click as expected
- dash lights click as expected
- stater does not spin and all and no solenoid click
Things I've replaced:
- starters - 2 different replacements, 1 was actually bad and would never crank
- battery
- battery cables
-- grounds from battery to frame and battery to engine
-- positive from battery to starter and battery to fuse box (been a while, pretty sure it goes to the fuse box
I have no charging issues.
I don't believe it's a main relay problem since it's a "no-crank" problem and not a "crank but no start" but maybe you can convince me otherwise.
I don't believe it's a problem with the clutch pedal idiot switch because pushing the clutch pedal up and down cycles all the relays as expected
I don't think there's a starter relay of some sort between the key switch and the solenoid, is there? I don't see one on my wiring diagrams.
I think the key switch is all that's left to replace.
Any thoughts/comments/advice or similar experiences before I cough another $50 for a parts (key switch) that won't fix the problem?
Comments
There is a little rubber piece that fits on the top of the clutch pedal that is supposed to push this switch when the pedal is engaged. I have had that rubber piece dry out and crack away over time resulting in a similar situation.
You can also check the starter by laying a screw driver over the two terminals on the starter. Again, make sure the car is in neutral with the parking brake engaged. If you are getting charge to the starter, it should crank up and start.
But I'm betting on the rubber piece on the clutch pedal bracket. It's probably just not pushing the button enough to engage it.
I'll try jumping the solenoid (wire from 12V+ to solenoid) next time it acts up.
The rubber button on my clutch pedal is actually a penny or a dime superglued in place. Been there, done that. Brake pedal too.
also try banging the starter with something next time. the heat could be causing it to stick. im a big fan of just beating on things until they work... fuel relay, ignition switch, heater motor, starter.... all can be temporarily fixed with a good smack.
LoL! Yes! I too had pennies in those locations at some point! LoL
It was the coil, even though I had replaced the whole distributor..
After testing every electrical connection 4 days later I figured out the brand new coil had gone bad..
MR FONZARELLI! I had an old caddilac that needed a good slap every once in a while to make the radio sing...
Seriously, though, I'd look into the ignition switch as well. Sounds like that's all the originals you've got left.
Thanks,
Victor
theres a button on the cylinder that gets pushed in when you put the key in you will need to push that in and manually twist the ignition cap where the wires connect it should be the shape and size of a small rectangle the size of your key or so and turn that like you would to start the car regularly ... if this works you will need a new cylinder or simply disconnect the plug and create a ghetto rig setup til you find a replacement gluck lmk if you need pics i just got done ripping my wiring harness apart haha.
After 4 different parts store starters that either would not spin sometimes when hot or would grind the flywheel or both, I went to a junkyard and bought a couple of used starters off of later model D-series. I made a point to get ones with their original green paint and ND stickers in hopes of avoiding another reman.
After more than 2 months of daily driving, I have no starting issues..