D15b2 to D16y7 harness

757rejects757rejects Band Wagon
in Electronics, Fueling & Air Conditioning
So I have a d16y7 in my wagon and Im trying to run it off of the stock ecu and wire harness is this possible
Also I am being told I have to switch to the d16y7 intake , I am running into difficulty with my alternator too, how do i go about splicing the different inlet?

Comments

  • MrJayDMMrJayDM Wagonist
    Is your D15b2 OBD-O DPFI or OBD-1 MPFI?
    The D16y7 is a OBD2-a

    All the D15b2 parts should bolt right up to the D16y7
    Yes you will have to swap the intake manifold alternator and distributor from the b2 to the y7.
    Also use the b2 drivers side motor mount and motor mount bracket or the motor will sit kinda off..
    Also use the y7 alt belt.
    If I remember correctly the temp sensor wires were too short, so you will need to extend them.

    I think that is it!!
  • 757rejects757rejects Band Wagon
    it has the big drum on top says PGM-FI dual point fuel injector.
    and I read that the d15b2 alternator wasn't compatible for the d16y7
  • 757rejects757rejects Band Wagon
    and can i run it off of the stock ecu
    the forum says alternators are compatible from 88-95 my d16 came out of a 97?
  • MrJayDMMrJayDM Wagonist
    757rejects wrote: »
    I read that the d15b2 alternator wasn't compatible for the d16y7
    I cant remeber but you may have to use the b2 alternator bracket.. An alternator is an alternator, I can put a mustang alternator on any Honda motor, with the right bracket and wiring it will work..

    PGM-FI dual point fuel injector means OBD-0 "Dual Point" are the key words.
    In simple words it's like an update on the carb design however the fuel is injected electronically. It has only TWO injectors that deal with all the fuel, the cylinder that is in the intake stroke sucks the fuel available in the manifold. That's one of the multiple problems this system has, fuel is not distributed the optimal way.

    If I were you I would convert to OBD-1.
    OBD-1 MPFI
    Multipoint fuel injection, which there is one fuel injector feeding each cylinder. 4 injectors..
    It would be a pain to convert but it would be worth it in the long run!!
    Better MPG, easier to convert to Vtec, ECU easy to tune.. Plus a ton of other pros to the OBD-1 conversion which I'm not going to list..

    Anyway~~
    You can still just bolt on the b2 intake, distributor and alternator on the y7 and run with the same ECU and wiring.
    Everything would be the same except for the y7 head and block.

    You have to use the b2 alternator, because the plug on the y7 alternator is OBD-2a, or you can buy a jumper cable and use the y7 alternator.
    If you want to use y7 distributor, you can also buy a jumper cable. "OBD-2a to OBD-0"

    Again If I where doing this I would think long and hard, doing a ton of research, listing the pros and cons on doing the OBD-0 to OBD01 conversion..
    The only major con is the cost of the conversion and its time consuming..
    Its really not so hard, you can buy a complete waring harness to make the conversion easier.. They just cost quite a bit!!
  • 757rejects757rejects Band Wagon
    so what your saying is it would be better in the long run too buy a jumper harness like this -> http://www.rywire.com/obd0-to-obd1-ecu-conversion-harness-p/ecu-obd0-obd1.htm
    then wire that all up?
    then use y7 intake?
    y7 alternater
    y7 distributer
    and run the whole thing on y7 wire harness?

    just trying to make sure im understanding
  • civtec350civtec350 Wagonist
    if you are trying to run the d16y7 in your car using the stock d15b2 harness, i would run the b2 intake manifold, b2 distributor, and b2 alternator. and swap out the alternator pulley for the y7 pulley, because it is 4 groove, instead of the b2 3 groove pulley. like said before, you will have to extend the b2 block mounted temperature sensor wires, to the y7 thermostat housing mounted sensor, and use the plug from the y7 because it is different than the b2.
  • 757rejects757rejects Band Wagon
    so if i do the obd1 swap i would use the d16 harness?
  • MrJayDMMrJayDM Wagonist
    757rejects wrote: »
    so what your saying is it would be better in the long run too buy a jumper harness like this -> http://www.rywire.com/obd0-to-obd1-ecu-conversion-harness-p/ecu-obd0-obd1.htm
    then wire that all up?
    then use y7 intake?
    y7 alternater
    y7 distributer
    and run the whole thing on y7 wire harness?

    just trying to make sure im understanding
    Yes that is correct!!

    This jumper will have everything you need to wire it up
    I would go with the D16z6 harness, because later you might want to slap a Vtec head on and run a P28 ECU

    You could run a P28 ECU anyway, you just cant hook up vtec..

    I wish I had made a DIY the last time I did the conversion..

    Here is some lite reading to get you started!!
    http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/39133-diy-dpfi-mpfi-swap.html
    Keep in mind this DIY doesn't use any jumper harness, Jumpers make it much easier!!

    Read this!! At the bottom there is a PDF with instructions!!
    http://www.hamotorsports.com/obd0-dpfi-to-obd1.html


    http://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/diy-dpfi-mpfi-swap-made-easy-2889205/

    This one is good but, all the pictures are missing in the one :(
    http://www.hondabuild.com/showthread.php?428-dpfi-to-mpfi-swap

    Yes this one is for B20's, but it's the same principle
    Also this is what you would have to do with out jumpers
    http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/technical-information/436716-dpfi-mpfi-conversion-diagrams.html

    757rejects wrote: »
    so if i do the obd1 swap i would use the d16 harness?
    no use the one thats in the car..

    Although if you want it done right you could rewire the whole car whit a OBD-1 wiring harness from a 92-95 civic
    What a pain the ass this would be!!!
  • jpciiijpciii familEE
    civtec350 wrote: »
    if you are trying to run the d16y7 in your car using the stock d15b2 harness, i would run the b2 intake manifold, b2 distributor, and b2 alternator. and swap out the alternator pulley for the y7 pulley, because it is 4 groove, instead of the b2 3 groove pulley. like said before, you will have to extend the b2 block mounted temperature sensor wires, to the y7 thermostat housing mounted sensor, and use the plug from the y7 because it is different than the b2.


    This is the quickest, easiest, and cheapest way.
  • MrJayDMMrJayDM Wagonist
    civtec350 wrote: »
    and swap out the alternator pulley for the y7 pulley, because it is 4 groove, instead of the b2 3 groove pulley.
    Ah yes I forgot about this!!
    Civtec is correct!!
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