Looking for some advice
faus7rav3n
Band Wagon
I am looking for an RT4WD, but up in my area many of the guys that own them, apparently think they are made of gold. I have, however, found several DX Auto FWD Wagons in the area at a more reasonable price. I also have my eyes on a junked/part out of a manual RT4WD. I'm wondering if it is even worth entertaining the idea of cobbling the parts together to convert an auto 2WD to manual RT4WD. I've only searched a little bit on this forum and some initial Google searches showed very little on the topic. The fact that I've found very little on the topic, even during my initial searches, seems like it might not be worth the effort. I'm sure this question gets asked several times a week. I've seen some CRX's and maybe some 4th Gens with the RT4WD swaps, so I know there is some hope since this is moving Wagon to Wagon.
Parts diagrams show very little differences between the 2WD and 4WD rear subframe mount points. Is there any reason it can't be done? Chassis imposed limitations?
If I can transplant an RT4WD for $2000, why would I want to spend $3000-4000 on someone else's sentimental feelings for a car?
Thanks for any help in advance.
Tim
Parts diagrams show very little differences between the 2WD and 4WD rear subframe mount points. Is there any reason it can't be done? Chassis imposed limitations?
If I can transplant an RT4WD for $2000, why would I want to spend $3000-4000 on someone else's sentimental feelings for a car?
Thanks for any help in advance.
Tim
Comments
Realistically You have to be dedicated to the project and have plenty of time.
So if you want to take the easy way out I would save and just buy an RT.
edit: and I'm not sure the particular swap you're asking about has been done here. Truthfully, the majority of our members consider suspension removal and a shift knob as a "mod list". Dare to be different. I'll help!
As far as doing it though, like was previously mentioned, you need everything. A rolling shell junker with a crap body is the way to go. If you do it I hope for thorough documentation on the subject.
I am currently in WA State around the Tacoma area.
The support from the veterans and mods for this potential project is just awesome. Not many sites give this warm a welcome to such a new face wanting to do something so audacious. I have no illusions that it will be easy nor as cheap as I make it out to be in my mind, but I figure, pieces of it could be done at a time. For example, the rear ends are so similar, one could probably swap them out on a weekend and have no appreciable difference in driveability. At that point it would be a matter of installing the rear diff and CV's whenever the engine/trans swap happened. At this point it's just a fall back plan, but I wanted to be sure that it should work in theory.
The goal for the car is to have a semi-nice daily that can go just about anywhere, beat about with class and style, while hauling a bunch of stuff in the trunk.
Tim
Update: 3 of the RT4WD's in the area that I had eyes on and was ready to offer were sold out from under me. I was going to drive 1h 30m to meet a guy for a viewing and he didn't even call to tell me it was sold. POS Craigslisters. I do have my eyes on a fixer-upper though about 2.5h away...the search continues.
In your example, the only thing about the rear end that's not a bolt-in would be the upper diff. mount. There are some captive nuts in the floorpan of the RT shell that aren't present on a DX. I'd look at bolting all the way through the hatch floor area with a plate inside, maybe? Other than that, you can't run the RT trailing arms without CV axles, or at least stubs or a large bolt to hold the axle bearings together.
The biggest snag, to my mind, is the mounting for the twin carrier bearing to support the driveline and viscous coupler. There's some extra structural ribs and threaded inserts on the RT pan. The way I would overcome that is to swap a whole section of floorpan/tunnel between the seats. In fact, when I hauled off my donor car I saved that section for some future need.
Look at post 80, a good shot of the whole package intact. The mount at the nose of the diff is the one in question.
How far is too far to travel for a car? I found one almost 500 miles away on the Boise CL that has been there for months. $180 one way tickets via Alaska vs. 8 hour cost to drive at $2.25+/gal. Decisions, decisions... Probably safer to recruit a fellow car enthusiast to go with me.
Welp, the one on the Boise CL is gone. Apparently it was, "sold 2 weeks ago" and the advert wasn't taken down. In fact, it's still up even after I talked to the guy today. CL has been the bane of my existence for 3 weeks now. Searches turning up empty, sellers not pulling their ads, or simply thinking their cars are worth 4k+ when in fact they are beaten down. Starting to get annoyed.
The well picked over RT that was at pick-n-pull was even bought up to restore.
Might want to hit CHARB up as well. I believe he is in Spokane WA and always seems to have good luck at getting wagons.
This one is close enough to me, I'd be willing to procure and hold it for you until you can come get it.
We have one of the largest AFB in the country in my back yard.
Let me know.
@ LowFlyin' - Tulsa is a little too far for me to drive it back to WA and as far as I know it's fairly pricey to ship it too. I might be able to snag a hop-flight headed that direction, which would significantly lessen the costs, but until that happens, I'm a little hesitant. The wife certainly wouldn't support that trip since she understands it to be a commuter and not a project car (lol). I would love to have it, Red is my favorite color.
@ ragen - Thanks for the support! Okinawa is a beautiful country and I wish I could get orders to go back. I miss the culture there and want to share the experience with my family.
I don't mind helping someone out that is involved with the armed forces...and I have a shop with plenty of tools so we can work on it to make sure it's road trip worthy.
You might also check on shipping. I'd imagine you'd be able to get it shipped for under $1000. ...but honestly, what's the fun in that?
https://flic.kr/p/qVcVUy
http://redding.craigslist.org/cto/4968241939.html
Needs a motor, but that's way easier than what you had in mind. Body even looks decent, and its $1300! I'd grab it myself for parts, but I already have 3. Wait, now that I think about it.......
Just from that experience alone, I'd say that you'll save yourself a lot of hassle if you just find an RT. Also try to find good driveshafts if you can, replacing the U joints is a gigantic pain in the ass (but it can be done).