What's your MPG?
ludesrv
Band Wagon
I'm curious as to what people are getting as far as MPG goes. I feel mine could be improved.
Just post your setup and your MPG clearly.
The setup:
91 Wagon DX (zero options) with 271XXXmiles on the chassis.
DOHC ZC with Si tranny
Currently on winter tires with light rims
100% stock interior, no subs
MPG:
30 with minimum spirited driving.
I was aiming for 35 or better, and I'm gonna keep working at it until I achieved that. I don't think swapping out the tranny will do anything. I need to reduce the drag of the vehicle. I think changing the noisy wheel bearings will improve it enough.
Just post your setup and your MPG clearly.
The setup:
91 Wagon DX (zero options) with 271XXXmiles on the chassis.
DOHC ZC with Si tranny
Currently on winter tires with light rims
100% stock interior, no subs
MPG:
30 with minimum spirited driving.
I was aiming for 35 or better, and I'm gonna keep working at it until I achieved that. I don't think swapping out the tranny will do anything. I need to reduce the drag of the vehicle. I think changing the noisy wheel bearings will improve it enough.
Comments
You got a 4.25 gear in that Si tranny.A tranny swap would do it.
Already a posting.Punch in "mileage" in the search. :evil:
http://www.hondacivicwagon.com/board/vi ... ge+mileage
You mean 4.25 final drive, and no, I ain't doing a tranny swap. I don't beleive a tranny swap can do that much unless you get an HF, which is near impossible in Canada.
Run Skinny Dubs(it's like lowering the final drive),drive slower,Kick up the advance or make changes to ur driving techniques(this could get you the 10% u want).These will give you the biggest bits of improvement.Everything else is plain just nibbling at it.
It's not bad, when I first got it I expected worse
my 2000 civic is a vtec-e (same engine as an EK3) and with that car I once did 825 km with 45 liters.
the 825 km was the most I ever did with one tank, only highway (from Belgium to Austria) useually I do +/- 700 km on one tank that's mixed cities and highway.
I wouldn't recommend HF unless you are traveling over 75 mph most of the time on flat terrain, or you have some serious torque and don't mind lugging the engine. Here in Georgia my 4th gear is useless below about 70 unless going downhill.
The last tank I've gone through I've got about 27MPG with almost 40PSI and I not even notice the difference in manual steering (versus the power steering I once had). This mileage includes daily (at least two 5min) warm-ups while I clean the snow and mixed city/highway driving with some heavy (above the bumper :-) snow here and there.
I'm keeping a MS Excel log of every tankful of gasoline and changing factors here and there (such as tire pressure, gasoline types and ethanol contents, driving styles, etc.) to learn what makes the RT4WD's heart beat more efficiently. I would expect to get about 30-35MPG driving around light-footed and not faster than about 60mph.
Couple things to get fixed/checked that could improve mileage:
- alignment problem (spindle-knuckle arm bent and camber is visibly off).
- rubber bushings in the front and back suspension need replacing.
- perform detailed tune-up and check/adjust timming.
mixed driving
MPFI swap
intake.
I love VTEC though..
last tank i got 27mpg highway/city with only like 30 psi in the tires.
I'm gonna throw on my snows that are skinnier and smaller and this time make sure they are running correct pressure of at least 40 psi, maybe i'll hit 30 mpg! ;-)
the best i've gotten was 41 mpg (cruising at 80 mph on I-26). :P
i
me = dumbass :roll:
DOHC likes 3200-3500 rpm band. Get the alignment squared up, air up the tires, plan your trips, get a vacuum gauge.
Also learn about lean burn combustion. Via the ecu add 6 degrees of timing and cut 10% fuel, plus add more lead timing at the dizzy as needed, keep cruising vacuum above 10 in/mg even on hills.
Watching a vacuum gauge out of the corner of your eye becomes second nature, really helps the mileage. Also the above tuning info will increase gas mileage, but also increase NOx emmisions, so if you get tailpiped yearly, be ready.
My D15B7 test example, 85 whp stock, 121 whp with upgrades (BIG CAM!) that got 53 mpg.
Also, smoothly onto the gas, no stabbing. OBD-1 is nice as it shut off the injectors during coast down untill 1100 rpm. Anticapate your stopping distance = no gas used slowing down.
Blip throttle heel toe downshifts really effect fuel economy here, like 3-5 mpg city.
My stock '90 5-speed gets an average of 30-31 highway driving (keeping the speed below 70) and 27-28 around town (both a little lower with the A/C on). It's just about all original with 238K and still going strong. When I bought it year before last, I put it in the shop to have the timing belt, water pump, distributor, plugs and wires replaced. Three guys working in the shop offered to buy it from me, but I've been pleased that I kept it. When then engine or tranny gives it up I'd like to swap over for max fuel efficiency, put racing seats in and get a new paint job. 8)
sorry the forum ate it, have a nice day.
I have been contemplating a chipped ecu for fuel mileage for a little while now. Right now I get around 27 in a 4wd (was higher earlier in the year), what could I expect with a chipped ecu with your mods? I'm guessing 30-31mpg.
please retry...good stuff, and thought provoking. I've been wondering how to get more advance from my stock d15b2. Detonates under load...why?
Best I've done with OBD-1 is coast down in the gear your in till 1200-1300 rpm, use brakes, then downshift to second is needed. For the downshift to be needed you have to drop 2-3 gears. 4-2 or 5-2, no blipping the throttle either on the downshift!
Driving with a vacuum gauge will teach you alot, esp. at cruising speed.
You see just how unsmooth you are......
Surely someone around here has done this?