So the weekend kinda got away from me (as they often do): Saturday was shot down (in terms of working on anything car-related) due to my oldest son's Saturday A.M. Tee Ball game, the celebration of my Mother's birthday and the 140th running of the Preakness (man-oh-man, AmericanPharaoh is one fast equine, eh?). Then on Sunday, I was a slightly selfish and used the little "free time" that I had on my own personal project (Sorry Sean ).
First thing Sunday morning, I went up to my storage unit to bring home my engine stand. But first, the Z6 longblock that was on there had to be dis-assembled. After all, the crankshaft that I am hoping to use in my build needed to come out not only for inspection, but to get started on re-profiling the counterweights for semi-extended high-RPM operation.
I've been spending a vast amount of time reading about engine build theories: What to do, what not to do, what helps with this, what helps with that, what to watch out for, what is optional, what is overkill, the specific geometry of the D-series engine & related stress factors, etc. I've come to the realization that the more you know, the more you don't know. Ya know? lol (My apologies for the poor attempts at humor that you'll find speckled throughout my posts). It is that fact that keeps me engaged and interested. There really is so much to be considered with a build of such magnitude. There are many good reads written by Larry (formerly of Endyn -- theoldone.com) in the "Articles" section. Unfortunately, given the age of the articles themselves, many of the (links to the) pictures have been lost and so you kind-of have to conceptualize what is being discussed.
As for the details of the progress that I made, I am very happy to share that I am ready to 'pull the trigger' on sending a block out to GE Mfg. for sleeving and final bore & hone. I've decided to send a D16Z6 block (rather than a D16Y8 block) for really, two main reasons:
1. -> The Z6 has factory hole locations for an intermediate shaft; which is VERY important for me seeing that the stock drivetrain uses an int. shaft allowing equal length axles to be used. Equal length axles = significantly less torque-steer issues.
2. -> I'm a little 'nuts-o' about certain things... ...I guess 'anal' would be the correct term, but I prefer not to align myself with certain anatomical pretenses. This being the case, the fact that I'm running a Z6 head means that: unless there is a major drawback to using a Z6 block, why wouldn't I? One of the only reasons that I ever thought about running a Y8 block was because of the oil dipstick location and the cast aluminum oil pan. HOWEVER, I was able to confirm that a Y8 oil pump in conjunction with a Y8 main seal plate on a Z6 block will allow the use of a Y8 oil pan. This setup will then require the use of Y8 timing belt covers (with oil dipstick tube & clip, etc.). I also plan on installing a crankshaft fluctuation (CKF) sensor to equip this motor with OBD2-compatible electronics. Fun Fact: The CKF sensor can also be used in/with electronics for a badass C.O.P. (Coil On Plug) setup which I am starting to see in my future... custom, of course...
[UPDATED W/ PICS]
My biggest complaint with this block the heavy corrosion / oxidation that is present. A shot of the "P28" identification is below, which shows the pitting in the aluminum. Luckily, all critical surfaces are okay. I do plan on sand blasting this block before it goes out to GE though.
Bearing codes shown here "CDCBC"... I was very happy to see main journals 1, 3 & 5 to be right on nominal ("C") -- with journals 2 & 4 only a step away from nominal. That's a good sign that this is a stout casting that will do me well... The other two pics show some of the deburring that I started to do. This is something that must be done with the utmost care for two reasons. The first, it is really easy to remove more material than you had intended to, and that could very easily turn the block into a large paper weight/scrap metal in the blink of an eye. The second reason -- and this ties into the reason for even doing such a task, if you slip or hit your hand in the wrong spot, you are going to get LAID-THE-FUCK-OPEN by the ridiculously sharp edges which seem to be EVERYWHERE. I'm serious... some of the edges rival a razor knife blade... There is also some "flashing" from the casting process that I will be removing. This whole deburring process also helps with the development (or lack thereof) of stress risers (cracks).
As previously mentioned, I'll be running a Endyn-modified Y8 Oil Pump w/ Y8 Timing Covers, so the Z6 oil dipstick tube's existence is futile. I had a 3/8" short extension that was the PERFECT
Hey man, no apology needed! lol
I got nothing but time on this "build". Just got her so I have a TON of other things to tend to for now.....not in any rush at all.
Its cool to see another wagon from maryland! keep up the good work man! LMK if you need anything im in southern maryland but i have a few parts laying around
I was able to spend some time getting the gearset removed from the transmission. Now all I have to do is dis-assemble, take some measurements & get in contact with Gearspeed to see if they've got something that we can use...
Nice work man. Was the disassembly fairly straightforward in comparison to other d series trannys? Any difficulties/special tools required? I know a press is required to reassemble the gear sets but is there anything else needed?
Nice work man. Was the disassembly fairly straightforward in comparison to other d series trannys? Any difficulties/special tools required? I know a press is required to reassemble the gear sets but is there anything else needed?
These RT trannys are a bit more 'involved' -- in terms of dis-assembly/re-assembly. There's more parts and a more specific order to which those parts need to be installed. I can't say that I've needed any additional tooling, as opposed to working on a typical B- or D-series tranny... and please don't confuse my "easy-peasy" attitude with the actual ability required to correctly service & maintain a Honda transmission.
I do have some updates to share:
1.) I contacted Gearspeed and they were willing to help look for a correct synchro kit, but I would have had to send both complete gearsets to CA from MD and wait for them to find the time to delve into the task of finding a match. In talking with Sean (owner of the tranny in question), we decided to abandon the carbon synchro install. That being said, the tranny is buttoned up and will be getting on its way in the next few days.
2.) I *finally* received my Ferrea Comp Plus (Inconel) valves. They were made-to-order, as I suppose there's not many folks dropping $450 on D-Series valves. That long lead time is the reason I abruptly abandoned all of the cylinder head work that you saw previously. I will be getting back into the head very shortly, as my block is just about ready to send to GE.
3.) I have started researching crankshaft options and have officially decided to run a Z6 crank. I've got it here with me at work and will be checking it on my CMM for straightness and eccentricity (out-of-round) conditions. I plan on doing some clean-up of the casting imperfections in addition to making the counterweights more aerodynamic. After that, the crank WILL need to be re-balanced. There are actually several companies who will balance & blueprint the rotating assembly for a very reasonable price. Given the amount of money and time I've got wrapped up into this project so far, It would be pretty stupid to no have that done.
These RT trannys are a bit more 'involved' -- in terms of dis-assembly/re-assembly. There's more parts and a more specific order to which those parts need to be installed. I can't say that I've needed any additional tooling, as opposed to working on a typical B- or D-series tranny... and please don't confuse my "easy-peasy" attitude with the actual ability required to correctly service & maintain a Honda transmission.
I do have some updates to share:
1.) I contacted Gearspeed and they were willing to help look for a correct synchro kit, but I would have had to send both complete gearsets to CA from MD and wait for them to find the time to delve into the task of finding a match. In talking with Sean (owner of the tranny in question), we decided to abandon the carbon synchro install. That being said, the tranny is buttoned up and will be getting on its way in the next few days.
2.) I *finally* received my Ferrea Comp Plus (Inconel) valves. They were made-to-order, as I suppose there's not many folks dropping $450 on D-Series valves. That long lead time is the reason I abruptly abandoned all of the cylinder head work that you saw previously. I will be getting back into the head very shortly, as my block is just about ready to send to GE.
3.) I have started researching crankshaft options and have officially decided to run a Z6 crank. I've got it here with me at work and will be checking it on my CMM for straightness and eccentricity (out-of-round) conditions. I plan on doing some clean-up of the casting imperfections in addition to making the counterweights more aerodynamic. After that, the crank WILL need to be re-balanced. There are actually several companies who will balance & blueprint the rotating assembly for a very reasonable price. Given the amount of money and time I've got wrapped up into this project so far, It would be pretty stupid to no have that done.
Stay tuned...
I would be willing to drop my RT trans and have it sent for them to go through. I don't have plans for it to move anytime soon.
I want to start off this build thread-from-the-dead update by stating that I AM NOT abandoning this project despite the excrutiatingly slow progress. There are lots of more important priorities in my life right now, however since my last update, I have managed to plug away at a few things...
At this point, my immediate priority is getting the transmission back together because its parts are spread across my workbench taking up valuable real estate that's needed for other details of this project. I was really tempted to just put the damn thing back together, but doing so would undermine my most sincere effort to deal with one of the biggest issues that plague high-horsepower Honda builds; TRACTION. Given the amount and quality of information that’s readily available on tha internetz these days, it really isn’t all that hard to build a 500+whp Honda (budget pending). I believe the real challenge lies in making that horsepower usable and getting it to the ground. We are all aware of the number of "dyno queens" out there...
If you’ve read my above couple of posts, you know that I have been trying to figure out exactly which synchro kit will work in the RT4WD D-series “L3” transmission. As it turns out, the physical size of the gearing components are identical to B-series components of the same generational timeframe -- I would assume to handle the extra drivetrain load of the 4wd system. A simplistic description would be: it’s a D-series housing with B-series-size internals. Therefore, if you have a RT tranny that you want to rebuild, you are going to need a synchro kit for a ‘89-‘91 A1/J1/Y2 cable B-series transmission. This has been 100% confirmed, as I actually sent my stock synchro rings to Synchrotech/MFactory R&D to have them physically find a match. **Thanks David Ruiz @ ST/MF R&D for working with me on that...** I ended up going with carbon synchros due to the high-rpm shifting that I'll likely be doing.
Among the many items necessary to get power to the ground is having limited-slip differential(s) where possible. Unfortunately, a LSD for the EE4 tranny is non-existent and the benefit of having a LSD in the front transaxle is insurmountable; since power will only be ‘transferred’ to the rear differential after traction has been lost at BOTH front wheels. With the ("open") OEM differential, power is ‘transferred’ to the rear differential once traction has been lost by EITHER front wheel. I will be addressing the rear differential issue after I finish with this tranny LSD project.
After countless minutes of staring into ‘space’ while pondering the feasibility of manufacturing a custom differential, I came to the conclusion that I do indeed possess the capabilities and resources to design and manufacture one for my project. Therefore, I went ahead and purchased only the internals of a cable B16A helical LSD (also from ST/MFactory through David Ruiz ... Thanks again dude.).
As for the raw material; it is important to know that the planetary and sun gears will exert massive axial and radial load on the inside of the housing under extreme driving conditions, so I spent the necessary time to research my options and ultimately decided to go with 4142 hot-rolled alloy steel. I ordered pre-heat treated and stress relieved round bar stock which should have a hardness of ~RC32 (Rockwell hardness C-scale). All of the sites say something along these lines about 4142 HR: “Typical applications for 4142 HR bar are gears, gearbox cases, sprockets, bolts, chain pins, drill collars, universal joints, highly stressed parts or parts subject to severe wear”. I’d say my intended application very-much falls under that description, yea? -- especially the bit about severe wear.
Before I get to the actual manufacturing of the housing, I need to obtain all of the critical dimensions from the OEM differential. I will primarily use a Zeiss Contura G2 CMM at my work for the majority of the physical dimenions. After that, I'll use manual inspection equipment to get the other important dimensions.
Enough jargon for now, on to some eye candy for this update: The first five photos are of the carbon synchronizer installation. The last six photos are screenshots showing the CAD design of my EE4 LSD. The photos in the middle are of a fit check for my proposed LSD.
Assembly of mainshaft -- carbon synchros in bubble-wrap bags, notice gear-change hub hanging from rafters over oil bath (towards upper-left of pic)...
Factory OEM hone cross-hatch clearly visible, alluding to this being a very low-mileage unit...
Misc. gear photo...
Beginning assembly of countershaft...
Mainshaft and countershaft 100% assembled with carbon synchros...
OEM LSD on CMM...
EE4 LSD Side-B Aluminum test piece for checking clearance inside clutch housing...
...and here's the Synchrotech/MFactory B16 LSD internals that will be used in my differential. Let me tell you: I have a D-series OBX LSD that I am installing for a friend; and a side-by-side comparison shows the quality of the ST/MF components are FAR better. I will try to get some comparison pics later today...
Shit me not... is that an LSD for the FRONT diff??
Correct. Shit on you not...
It is currently still in the prototype stage at the moment, but should be a reality within the next few weeks... I have to add oil ports to the housings, in addition to a few other small details.
Since I have full CAD data on everything, I was thinking about making a few extra to offer for sale... but it would really depend on the amount of interest that I would get.
I was going to tackle this at some-point when its running again as i have a spare box in need of a re-fresh as its been sat outside with no shafts in for years. But its nice to see someone doing it!
I'm not versed on these transmissions like I am in the Evo, why the hate for brass synchro? They are designed as a low-cost failsafe against catastrophic failure in Evo's, and the 4g63t can see upwards of 40 psi of boost with gobs of torque.
Also, nice project! No surprise to hear that OBX quality is not equal to that of the competition, it's nice to see some quality components and attention going into this project.
I'm not versed on these transmissions like I am in the Evo, why the hate for brass synchro? They are designed as a low-cost failsafe against catastrophic failure in Evo's, and the 4g63t can see upwards of 40 psi of boost with gobs of torque.
Also, nice project! No surprise to hear that OBX quality is not equal to that of the competition, it's nice to see some quality components and attention going into this project.
Synchros are essentially unaffected by the amount of power going through the box.
The synchronizer's ONLY purpose is to slow the rotation of the gear that you're about to go into, thereby allowing the shift collar to engage that gear. Essentially, they can be thought of as gear brakes.
In a 'bad' transmission, the 'grinding/crunching' sound is the shift collar attempting to engage with a gear that is still moving, which is due to that synchronizer ring not 'braking' the gear properly.
It's not necessarily that I am 'against' brass synchronizers. I chose to go with carbon synchros over OEM brass specifically because of the RPM range in which my box will be used.
My cam (Web/Bisi3.6) makes power up to and above 9,000 RPM. Without a doubt, carbon synchros will have a longer service life in my particular application.
With the exception of a few VERY minor details (i.e. a chamfer here, a radius there), I am declaring both side-A and side-B CAD models complete...
It is extremely important to have proper oiling throughout the differential itself. Much like the way that Honda utilizes the differential ring gear as an 'impeller' of sorts to move the transmission fluid about the housing; the planetary gears' helical profile within the LSD housings will do the same for it.
Here are some screenshots of the two housing halves. Proposed oil galleys highlighted in pink:
Wow. So much work and planning is going into this build. Extremely impressed. Btw, what do you do for work?
Im a Sr. QC/QA inspector at an aerospace machine shop here in Baltimore; though, before getting into Quality Control, I was setting up/programming/running CNC machines. During most of my day, I program and run a Carl Zeiss Contura G2 CMM w/ VAST XXT probe head.
I've worked directly alongside ME's & EE's for the last ten years and the knowledge that I have obtained is truly priceless. I do have a formal background in somewhat higher-level mathematics, software programming & 3D modeling/animation:
- A.A.S. (Associate's of Applied Sciences) from CCBC in Internet Technology
- B.T.P.S. (Bachelor's in Technical or Professional Studies) from the University of Baltimore in Simulation & Digital Entertainment
- Have 20+ credits towards my Master's, but family life got too hectic. I would really love to have a Master's Degree though...
Lately, I've been re-assessing the specifics of my engine build. I started a thread over on D-series.org regarding the details of possible engine builds and their respective geometry, pros & cons, R/S ratio, etc. etc
Seems as though the general consensus is: "There's no replacement for displacement"
Thinking about going overboard and doing a deckplate, custom rods, custom Pistons, etc.
Comments
So the 3rd/4th/5th syncros were a match though?
I would like to know this as well seeing as my 3rd grinds and this seems to be the best/cheapest option.
First thing Sunday morning, I went up to my storage unit to bring home my engine stand. But first, the Z6 longblock that was on there had to be dis-assembled. After all, the crankshaft that I am hoping to use in my build needed to come out not only for inspection, but to get started on re-profiling the counterweights for semi-extended high-RPM operation.
I've been spending a vast amount of time reading about engine build theories: What to do, what not to do, what helps with this, what helps with that, what to watch out for, what is optional, what is overkill, the specific geometry of the D-series engine & related stress factors, etc. I've come to the realization that the more you know, the more you don't know. Ya know? lol (My apologies for the poor attempts at humor that you'll find speckled throughout my posts). It is that fact that keeps me engaged and interested. There really is so much to be considered with a build of such magnitude. There are many good reads written by Larry (formerly of Endyn -- theoldone.com) in the "Articles" section. Unfortunately, given the age of the articles themselves, many of the (links to the) pictures have been lost and so you kind-of have to conceptualize what is being discussed.
As for the details of the progress that I made, I am very happy to share that I am ready to 'pull the trigger' on sending a block out to GE Mfg. for sleeving and final bore & hone. I've decided to send a D16Z6 block (rather than a D16Y8 block) for really, two main reasons:
1. -> The Z6 has factory hole locations for an intermediate shaft; which is VERY important for me seeing that the stock drivetrain uses an int. shaft allowing equal length axles to be used. Equal length axles = significantly less torque-steer issues.
2. -> I'm a little 'nuts-o' about certain things... ...I guess 'anal' would be the correct term, but I prefer not to align myself with certain anatomical pretenses. This being the case, the fact that I'm running a Z6 head means that: unless there is a major drawback to using a Z6 block, why wouldn't I? One of the only reasons that I ever thought about running a Y8 block was because of the oil dipstick location and the cast aluminum oil pan. HOWEVER, I was able to confirm that a Y8 oil pump in conjunction with a Y8 main seal plate on a Z6 block will allow the use of a Y8 oil pan. This setup will then require the use of Y8 timing belt covers (with oil dipstick tube & clip, etc.). I also plan on installing a crankshaft fluctuation (CKF) sensor to equip this motor with OBD2-compatible electronics. Fun Fact: The CKF sensor can also be used in/with electronics for a badass C.O.P. (Coil On Plug) setup which I am starting to see in my future... custom, of course...
[UPDATED W/ PICS]
My biggest complaint with this block the heavy corrosion / oxidation that is present. A shot of the "P28" identification is below, which shows the pitting in the aluminum. Luckily, all critical surfaces are okay. I do plan on sand blasting this block before it goes out to GE though.
Bearing codes shown here "CDCBC"... I was very happy to see main journals 1, 3 & 5 to be right on nominal ("C") -- with journals 2 & 4 only a step away from nominal. That's a good sign that this is a stout casting that will do me well... The other two pics show some of the deburring that I started to do. This is something that must be done with the utmost care for two reasons. The first, it is really easy to remove more material than you had intended to, and that could very easily turn the block into a large paper weight/scrap metal in the blink of an eye. The second reason -- and this ties into the reason for even doing such a task, if you slip or hit your hand in the wrong spot, you are going to get LAID-THE-FUCK-OPEN by the ridiculously sharp edges which seem to be EVERYWHERE. I'm serious... some of the edges rival a razor knife blade... There is also some "flashing" from the casting process that I will be removing. This whole deburring process also helps with the development (or lack thereof) of stress risers (cracks).
As previously mentioned, I'll be running a Endyn-modified Y8 Oil Pump w/ Y8 Timing Covers, so the Z6 oil dipstick tube's existence is futile. I had a 3/8" short extension that was the PERFECT
I got nothing but time on this "build". Just got her so I have a TON of other things to tend to for now.....not in any rush at all.
These RT trannys are a bit more 'involved' -- in terms of dis-assembly/re-assembly. There's more parts and a more specific order to which those parts need to be installed. I can't say that I've needed any additional tooling, as opposed to working on a typical B- or D-series tranny... and please don't confuse my "easy-peasy" attitude with the actual ability required to correctly service & maintain a Honda transmission.
I do have some updates to share:
1.) I contacted Gearspeed and they were willing to help look for a correct synchro kit, but I would have had to send both complete gearsets to CA from MD and wait for them to find the time to delve into the task of finding a match. In talking with Sean (owner of the tranny in question), we decided to abandon the carbon synchro install. That being said, the tranny is buttoned up and will be getting on its way in the next few days.
2.) I *finally* received my Ferrea Comp Plus (Inconel) valves. They were made-to-order, as I suppose there's not many folks dropping $450 on D-Series valves. That long lead time is the reason I abruptly abandoned all of the cylinder head work that you saw previously. I will be getting back into the head very shortly, as my block is just about ready to send to GE.
3.) I have started researching crankshaft options and have officially decided to run a Z6 crank. I've got it here with me at work and will be checking it on my CMM for straightness and eccentricity (out-of-round) conditions. I plan on doing some clean-up of the casting imperfections in addition to making the counterweights more aerodynamic. After that, the crank WILL need to be re-balanced. There are actually several companies who will balance & blueprint the rotating assembly for a very reasonable price. Given the amount of money and time I've got wrapped up into this project so far, It would be pretty stupid to no have that done.
Stay tuned...
I would be willing to drop my RT trans and have it sent for them to go through. I don't have plans for it to move anytime soon.
At this point, my immediate priority is getting the transmission back together because its parts are spread across my workbench taking up valuable real estate that's needed for other details of this project. I was really tempted to just put the damn thing back together, but doing so would undermine my most sincere effort to deal with one of the biggest issues that plague high-horsepower Honda builds; TRACTION. Given the amount and quality of information that’s readily available on tha internetz these days, it really isn’t all that hard to build a 500+whp Honda (budget pending). I believe the real challenge lies in making that horsepower usable and getting it to the ground. We are all aware of the number of "dyno queens" out there...
If you’ve read my above couple of posts, you know that I have been trying to figure out exactly which synchro kit will work in the RT4WD D-series “L3” transmission. As it turns out, the physical size of the gearing components are identical to B-series components of the same generational timeframe -- I would assume to handle the extra drivetrain load of the 4wd system. A simplistic description would be: it’s a D-series housing with B-series-size internals. Therefore, if you have a RT tranny that you want to rebuild, you are going to need a synchro kit for a ‘89-‘91 A1/J1/Y2 cable B-series transmission. This has been 100% confirmed, as I actually sent my stock synchro rings to Synchrotech/MFactory R&D to have them physically find a match. **Thanks David Ruiz @ ST/MF R&D for working with me on that...** I ended up going with carbon synchros due to the high-rpm shifting that I'll likely be doing.
Among the many items necessary to get power to the ground is having limited-slip differential(s) where possible. Unfortunately, a LSD for the EE4 tranny is non-existent and the benefit of having a LSD in the front transaxle is insurmountable; since power will only be ‘transferred’ to the rear differential after traction has been lost at BOTH front wheels. With the ("open") OEM differential, power is ‘transferred’ to the rear differential once traction has been lost by EITHER front wheel. I will be addressing the rear differential issue after I finish with this tranny LSD project.
After countless minutes of staring into ‘space’ while pondering the feasibility of manufacturing a custom differential, I came to the conclusion that I do indeed possess the capabilities and resources to design and manufacture one for my project. Therefore, I went ahead and purchased only the internals of a cable B16A helical LSD (also from ST/MFactory through David Ruiz ... Thanks again dude.).
As for the raw material; it is important to know that the planetary and sun gears will exert massive axial and radial load on the inside of the housing under extreme driving conditions, so I spent the necessary time to research my options and ultimately decided to go with 4142 hot-rolled alloy steel. I ordered pre-heat treated and stress relieved round bar stock which should have a hardness of ~RC32 (Rockwell hardness C-scale). All of the sites say something along these lines about 4142 HR: “Typical applications for 4142 HR bar are gears, gearbox cases, sprockets, bolts, chain pins, drill collars, universal joints, highly stressed parts or parts subject to severe wear”. I’d say my intended application very-much falls under that description, yea? -- especially the bit about severe wear.
Before I get to the actual manufacturing of the housing, I need to obtain all of the critical dimensions from the OEM differential. I will primarily use a Zeiss Contura G2 CMM at my work for the majority of the physical dimenions. After that, I'll use manual inspection equipment to get the other important dimensions.
Enough jargon for now, on to some eye candy for this update: The first five photos are of the carbon synchronizer installation. The last six photos are screenshots showing the CAD design of my EE4 LSD. The photos in the middle are of a fit check for my proposed LSD.
Assembly of mainshaft -- carbon synchros in bubble-wrap bags, notice gear-change hub hanging from rafters over oil bath (towards upper-left of pic)...
Factory OEM hone cross-hatch clearly visible, alluding to this being a very low-mileage unit...
Misc. gear photo...
Beginning assembly of countershaft...
Mainshaft and countershaft 100% assembled with carbon synchros...
OEM LSD on CMM...
EE4 LSD Side-B Aluminum test piece for checking clearance inside clutch housing...
Checking clearance inside housing & checking speedo gear alignment/engagement...
Checking chamfer clearance...
Checking chamfer clearance (view 2)...
Checking misc. clearance inside housing...
EE4 LSD Side-A Aluminum test piece for checking clearance inside transmission housing...
Checking axial clearance inside tranny housing...
Checking axial clearance inside tranny housing (view 2)...
Checking axial clearance inside tranny housing (view 3)...
EE4 LSD Side-B Aluminum test piece with ring gear(s) installed...
EE4 LSD Side-B Aluminum test piece with ring gear(s) installed (different perspective)...
Checking clearance with diff. spinning...
Checking clearance with diff. spinning (view 2)...
Checking clearance with diff. spinning (view 3)...
Checking clearance with diff. still...
EE4 LSD REV.A_Side-A bottom isometric view...
EE4 LSD REV.A_Side-A top isometric view...
EE4 LSD REV.A_Side-B bottom isometric view...
EE4 LSD REV.A_Side-B top isometric view...
EE4 LSD REV.A_Assembly bottom isometric view...
[IMG]http://www.mindofderek.com/d_turbo/EE4_LSD_REV.A_ASSEMBLY_ BOTTOM_ISO_VIEW.jpg[/IMG]
EE4 LSD REV.A_Assembly top isometric view...
Correct. Shit on you not...
It is currently still in the prototype stage at the moment, but should be a reality within the next few weeks... I have to add oil ports to the housings, in addition to a few other small details.
Since I have full CAD data on everything, I was thinking about making a few extra to offer for sale... but it would really depend on the amount of interest that I would get.
That's the whole point of going through all of the hassle... to make a drop-in helical LSD for the RT4WD transmissions.
I've always wanted to say "I was the first to..." about something unique and functional. Looks like I'm going to be able to...
Also, nice project! No surprise to hear that OBX quality is not equal to that of the competition, it's nice to see some quality components and attention going into this project.
Synchros are essentially unaffected by the amount of power going through the box.
The synchronizer's ONLY purpose is to slow the rotation of the gear that you're about to go into, thereby allowing the shift collar to engage that gear. Essentially, they can be thought of as gear brakes.
In a 'bad' transmission, the 'grinding/crunching' sound is the shift collar attempting to engage with a gear that is still moving, which is due to that synchronizer ring not 'braking' the gear properly.
It's not necessarily that I am 'against' brass synchronizers. I chose to go with carbon synchros over OEM brass specifically because of the RPM range in which my box will be used.
My cam (Web/Bisi3.6) makes power up to and above 9,000 RPM. Without a doubt, carbon synchros will have a longer service life in my particular application.
And FYI, the screenshots of the models above were taken in my CMM software, Calypso...
Sooooo...... I shouldn't post updates to my build in my build thread?
Keep up with that too, I just think it's so special it should have one dedicated to it when you finish! Awesome stuff dude! Keep up the good work!
Agreed! ... I just interpreted your reply incorrectly, that's all. My fault.
Come to think of it... I did ask a question about this specific topic months ago, before even deciding to go for it... Maybe I'll update that...
https://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?19563-Helical-LSD-in-RT4WD-trans&p=229122
It is extremely important to have proper oiling throughout the differential itself. Much like the way that Honda utilizes the differential ring gear as an 'impeller' of sorts to move the transmission fluid about the housing; the planetary gears' helical profile within the LSD housings will do the same for it.
Here are some screenshots of the two housing halves. Proposed oil galleys highlighted in pink:
Side-A Top ISO view w/ Oil Galleys
Side-A Bottom ISO view w/ Oil Galleys
Side-B Top ISO view w/ Oil Galleys
Side-B Bottom ISO view w/ Oil Galleys
Im a Sr. QC/QA inspector at an aerospace machine shop here in Baltimore; though, before getting into Quality Control, I was setting up/programming/running CNC machines. During most of my day, I program and run a Carl Zeiss Contura G2 CMM w/ VAST XXT probe head.
I've worked directly alongside ME's & EE's for the last ten years and the knowledge that I have obtained is truly priceless. I do have a formal background in somewhat higher-level mathematics, software programming & 3D modeling/animation:
- A.A.S. (Associate's of Applied Sciences) from CCBC in Internet Technology
- B.T.P.S. (Bachelor's in Technical or Professional Studies) from the University of Baltimore in Simulation & Digital Entertainment
- Have 20+ credits towards my Master's, but family life got too hectic. I would really love to have a Master's Degree though...
Seems as though the general consensus is: "There's no replacement for displacement"
Thinking about going overboard and doing a deckplate, custom rods, custom Pistons, etc.
We shall see...