My EE4 & Quest for Positive Manifold Pressure
DP_RT4WD
New Wagonist
Greetings Everyone! I've been meaning to get this build thread started for the last 6 months or so, but working 48hr weeks, being a good father to two awesome boys and being a good husband (yes, I know it's a myth) to my beautiful wife has stalled my efforts thus far.
To start off with some general background info, this project will be based around my 1991 RT4WD (EE4). I bought the car approximately 2 years ago, at which time it had 136,XXX on the ODO. That's an average of 6,476 miles per year. Not bad at all, eh?
I actually bought the car because I love the 4th gen civic body style. My first Honda (and first car for that matter) was a '90 CRX Si while back in High School around 2001. Since then, I've vastly expanded my knowledge base and have become sort-of the "Go-to" guy in my immediate area for Honda-related advice, problems, troubleshooting, service, etc.
Some of the hesitation that I've had about writing this thread is due to my habit of going overboard with respect to the details of such a project. If there's something that I've left out that you would like to know, please do not hesitate to inquire. I'm mainly doing this for myself; to be able to look back over the months (or years possibly) and see my progress. I'm a recovering (IV)Heroin addict and it is nice to see my efforts going towards something positive. TMI?... maybe... but the pride of getting and staying clean far outweighs the shame of who I used to be while actively using.
As far as my end goal is concerned, I really want to have a reliable, fast (make that EXTREMELY fast), unique daily driven vehicle capable of transporting my family of 4 (which is why I chose a 4-door vehicle to begin with). The suspension, including wheels, will be the only non-drivetrain related modifications that I am planning. I actually just started the suspension install over the weekend (pics and details below). My HP goal is 500+ whp and the setup is planned as follows: (think a minute before you ask "Why D-series?")
KEY
*= Already HAVE item/service
**= Still NEED to acquire item/service
Engine
- D16Y8 block* with GE or Darton sleeves**
- D16Z6 stock valved head;* race-ported**
- Crower (NOT Brian Crower) springs* & Ti retainers*
- Ferrea locks*
- Web Cam Stage 3/Race profile (Bisimoto 3.6T) camshaft*
- Skunk2 ProSeries adj. cam gear*
- Edelbrock Performer X IM* w/ heatshield IM gasket*, custom heatshield washers*, & custom heatshield stud spacers* (basically no metal-to-metal contact whatsoever between the cylinder head and IM)
- Skunk2 ProSeries Billet 70mm TB*
- CP forged pistons, 9.0:1cr @ 75.0mm*
- CP upgraded 9310 alloy thick-walled wrist pins* (good to 700hp, supposedly)
- CP gas nitrided ring set*
- Swaintech "Goldcoat" ceramic thermal barrier coating on piston domes*
- Swaintech "PC-9" friction-reducing piston skirt coating*
- Pauter X-beam connecting rods*
- ACL Race main and rod bearings*
- ARP custom head studs for Y8 block/Z6 head setup*
- ENDYN ported Y8 oil pump*
- Gates racing timing belt**
- Modded Y8 water pump**
- GE MLS head gasket**
Fuel System/Management
- Injector Dynamics 1000cc/min injectors*
- Deatschwerks 320lph in-tank fuel pump*
- Moroso long-style mesh fuel filter*
- Custom 1/2" (.500") bore fuel rail*
- Custom FPR/distribution block (using a 3.2TL FPR w/ B&M fuel pressure modifier -- mounts to firewall and allows a return-less fuel rail setup)*
- Hondata (more than likely; haven't decided yet)**
Turbo Setup
- PTE 6262e JB w/ CEA billet wheel upgrade, .60 a/r int., .63 a/r exh*
- J2 equal length ramhorn manifold* (needs 38mm WG flange cut off and 44mm v-band flange/elbow welded on**)
- 3" DP & all the way back to a burns SS muffler**
- TiAL 44mm v-band WG*
- PTE 600hp FMIC*
- Greddy Type-S BOV*
- Pieced together charge piping**
Suspension
- GSP Type RS (16-way adj. dampening) full coilovers*
- GSP rear LCAs*
- GSP rear adj. UCAs*
- GSP front adj. UCAs*
- Avid Racing traction bars*
- Stock RT4WD rally-style 14x6.5 steelies w/ center caps*
- 195/60R14 rubber*
- Custom rear traction bar setup**
Misc
- Batteries relocated to rear spare tire well*
-
Running out of time at the moment. I know there's a lot that I've left out, forgotten about, etc. Will get some pics of the items up ASAP for your viewing pleasure.
Please only reply with constructive criticism. I get my daily dose of negativity from CNN.com
I will strive to update daily, as there always seems to be something I'm doing or working on that's related to this project, so check back often for updates. I am a machinist by trade and so I'll be doing 99% of this stuff myself.
Thanks for your time if you've read this far.
To start off with some general background info, this project will be based around my 1991 RT4WD (EE4). I bought the car approximately 2 years ago, at which time it had 136,XXX on the ODO. That's an average of 6,476 miles per year. Not bad at all, eh?
I actually bought the car because I love the 4th gen civic body style. My first Honda (and first car for that matter) was a '90 CRX Si while back in High School around 2001. Since then, I've vastly expanded my knowledge base and have become sort-of the "Go-to" guy in my immediate area for Honda-related advice, problems, troubleshooting, service, etc.
Some of the hesitation that I've had about writing this thread is due to my habit of going overboard with respect to the details of such a project. If there's something that I've left out that you would like to know, please do not hesitate to inquire. I'm mainly doing this for myself; to be able to look back over the months (or years possibly) and see my progress. I'm a recovering (IV)Heroin addict and it is nice to see my efforts going towards something positive. TMI?... maybe... but the pride of getting and staying clean far outweighs the shame of who I used to be while actively using.
As far as my end goal is concerned, I really want to have a reliable, fast (make that EXTREMELY fast), unique daily driven vehicle capable of transporting my family of 4 (which is why I chose a 4-door vehicle to begin with). The suspension, including wheels, will be the only non-drivetrain related modifications that I am planning. I actually just started the suspension install over the weekend (pics and details below). My HP goal is 500+ whp and the setup is planned as follows: (think a minute before you ask "Why D-series?")
KEY
*= Already HAVE item/service
**= Still NEED to acquire item/service
Engine
- D16Y8 block* with GE or Darton sleeves**
- D16Z6 stock valved head;* race-ported**
- Crower (NOT Brian Crower) springs* & Ti retainers*
- Ferrea locks*
- Web Cam Stage 3/Race profile (Bisimoto 3.6T) camshaft*
- Skunk2 ProSeries adj. cam gear*
- Edelbrock Performer X IM* w/ heatshield IM gasket*, custom heatshield washers*, & custom heatshield stud spacers* (basically no metal-to-metal contact whatsoever between the cylinder head and IM)
- Skunk2 ProSeries Billet 70mm TB*
- CP forged pistons, 9.0:1cr @ 75.0mm*
- CP upgraded 9310 alloy thick-walled wrist pins* (good to 700hp, supposedly)
- CP gas nitrided ring set*
- Swaintech "Goldcoat" ceramic thermal barrier coating on piston domes*
- Swaintech "PC-9" friction-reducing piston skirt coating*
- Pauter X-beam connecting rods*
- ACL Race main and rod bearings*
- ARP custom head studs for Y8 block/Z6 head setup*
- ENDYN ported Y8 oil pump*
- Gates racing timing belt**
- Modded Y8 water pump**
- GE MLS head gasket**
Fuel System/Management
- Injector Dynamics 1000cc/min injectors*
- Deatschwerks 320lph in-tank fuel pump*
- Moroso long-style mesh fuel filter*
- Custom 1/2" (.500") bore fuel rail*
- Custom FPR/distribution block (using a 3.2TL FPR w/ B&M fuel pressure modifier -- mounts to firewall and allows a return-less fuel rail setup)*
- Hondata (more than likely; haven't decided yet)**
Turbo Setup
- PTE 6262e JB w/ CEA billet wheel upgrade, .60 a/r int., .63 a/r exh*
- J2 equal length ramhorn manifold* (needs 38mm WG flange cut off and 44mm v-band flange/elbow welded on**)
- 3" DP & all the way back to a burns SS muffler**
- TiAL 44mm v-band WG*
- PTE 600hp FMIC*
- Greddy Type-S BOV*
- Pieced together charge piping**
Suspension
- GSP Type RS (16-way adj. dampening) full coilovers*
- GSP rear LCAs*
- GSP rear adj. UCAs*
- GSP front adj. UCAs*
- Avid Racing traction bars*
- Stock RT4WD rally-style 14x6.5 steelies w/ center caps*
- 195/60R14 rubber*
- Custom rear traction bar setup**
Misc
- Batteries relocated to rear spare tire well*
-
Running out of time at the moment. I know there's a lot that I've left out, forgotten about, etc. Will get some pics of the items up ASAP for your viewing pleasure.
Please only reply with constructive criticism. I get my daily dose of negativity from CNN.com
I will strive to update daily, as there always seems to be something I'm doing or working on that's related to this project, so check back often for updates. I am a machinist by trade and so I'll be doing 99% of this stuff myself.
Thanks for your time if you've read this far.
Comments
Currently, I have the dampening adjustment at 13 (of 18 possible settings). Initially, I had them set at 5 and that felt WAYYY too spongy. Bumped it to 10 before leaving the store and finally to 13 before leaving for work this morning and I really like the way everything feels there.
I'll try to get some better pics of the car from a little further away and standing directly perpendicular to it. Before I take it to get it aligned, I'll probably drop it just a tad more all the way around.
Also, I'll drop a little eye-candy of some of the turbo build items for your viewing pleasure...
btw Good luck! And I advise You to read this link to achieve max power
From the countless hours of research and conversations I've had with folks that have "been there; done that", it seems there are a few "weapons" to effectively combat boost lag.
The first being an efficient charge-air setup; with that consisting of everything in between the throttle body and exh. turbine inlet. i.e. port-matching where possible, int. manifold w/ large plenum & runners, good head work, equal-length exh. manifold, etc.. This essentially can be described as the complete combustion cycle of the system. It's important to think about everything as a system; and to address the different parts of that system appropriately to get the desired results.
Second, a camshaft with turbo-specific profile. I could've probably rolled this in with the previous category tho.
Third, the exhaust setup from turbine outlet all the way back to the muffler. The exh. turbine
When You plan to finish Your engine build?
As with most of my projects, progress fluctuates greatly depending on how motivated I am to get them done. But that's kind of a blanket statement that I'm sure everyone here can relate to.
If you noticed from my build list above, I'd estimate that I have in my possession close to 85% of the required items. Of course I've saved the biggest ticket items for last, which are getting the Y8 block sleeved and getting the Z6 head PnP'd.
It can get really nasty during the winter months, which here in Baltimore are November thru March. There's a 50/50 chance of having either a mild (workable outside conditions) or freezing (fuck it, that shit can sit) kind of winter. So far, its been the latter of the two.
I'll more than likely continue to source the rest of the parts over the winter, get the block done, get the head done, build the motor, etc. and shoot for an early spring '15 drop-in/tune.
I also have an update to share. Before this blast of arctic air came through, I was able to get outside, take some measurements, lower the car slightly, and "string" my alignment.
Ever since I took possession of the car, the steering wheel was a little crooked (turned to the right while driving straight). It wasn't super-bad to begin with and I got used to it, but once I noticed the inside of my front tires had excessive wear, I knew there was a toe issue that had to be dealt with; else risk chewing up my new tires. Not cool. So using the tools of the trade (first picture), my father and I spent about 4 hours tweaking the alignment. There are no plans to track the car, other than the possibility of a few 1/4 mile runs on "test-n-tune" Fridays at the famous Capitol Raceway (once the build is done of course). I'd consider myself a "spirited" driver. I like to play around on exit ramps and such. When I'm in a vehicle that can be competitive of sorts, I very much enjoy a little stop-light fun. My personal favorite to see in the rear-view mirror is a VW which will surely boast through the use of a sticker, that they're the "illest".
See? See how that happens? I get off topic reeeeally quick and before I know it, I'm off on some tangental rant about how much I hate VWs. It comes to that EVERY time. Anyway, the current measurements are:
Front
Camber > 0.0° to -0.5°
Toe > 0 L&R
Rear
----
Camber > -1.5° to -2.0° L&R
Toe > 0 L&R
I am VERY satisfied with the final outcome of this entire suspension project. I was semi-skeptical about using Godspeed products, but in the end, if I had it to do over again, I would absolutely go with the same stuff. That says a lot. Granted, I only have about 100 miles on everything, but so far so good. I will continue to look for oil leaks at the shocks, wear, etc.
I've received an overall positive reaction from the locals and the white rally RT steelies are very much growing on me (I was never really a fan of white wheels in general). The tires are Dunlop SP 195/60R14 and look really, really nice on the wagon. The width looks perfect and will be very much needed once the car's in the 500+whp range
...tools for my alignment...
...and this is how she currently sits...
I brought in to work with me today, my TiAL 44mm V-Band WG to disassemble & inspect. Depending on the condition of the diaphragm, it may or may not need replacing. (my God, if that statement isn't straight out of the mouth of Captain Obvious right?)
Along with probably 50% (or more) of the parts for my build, this was sourced on the H-T classifieds forum. I picked it up for only $150 shipped! Killer deal right? The physical condition is excellent, considering it's "used". It was said to have only 2000 miles on it, which seems to be a common occurrence for parts such as this... (...wait for it, wait for it...an annoyingly over-analyzed reason for why H-T's classifieds forum is so active...) It's like people put their "turbo kit" together and get their vehicle running, then they run into some sort of catastrophic problem a few hundred (or more rarely, a few thousand) miles later which prompts a complete part-out of their entire project. Out of frustration, they then proceed to buy an Evo or an STi... yadda, yadda, yadda; the rest is history.
Anyway, back on topic, I'll snap some pics of the insides of the WG later.
On another note, I'm about 90% done fabricating a valve spring compressor tool for my Z6 head. It's quite a unique and functional design that will allow a swift break-down of the valve spring/retainer/keeper assembly. Will get pics of that ASAP.
(slick/unique/intelligent sign-off comment goes here)
Again, just to share some eye candy, I snapped a few pics of my PTE 6262 billet wheel & turbine wheel next to a TD04HL-15T compressor & turbine wheel (out of a '00 SAAB Viggen). I'm just about finished with that rebuild.
I've got a ton more parts that I need to get in selling shape to finish funding Project:Boosted[EE4].
Hoping to post an update by the end of the weekend showing a bare Z6 head ready to go out to HeadGames for PnP...
In for this one.
How you plan to fortify the drivetrain for moar powar?
Was just talking about this with a co-worker... The goal needs to be keeping things from moving under load (hard acceleration). So under the hood will be filled motor mounts and for the rear, I'm gonna have to fabricate some sort of bracing apparatus; as I don't think merely filling the existing mounts will be sufficient to handle the added torque. As soon as I get over my buddies house with a heated garage, I intend on getting the car up in the air and taking some pictures/measurements for a brainstorming session. I will absolutely post-up my progress and be asking for help/ideas... stay tuned...
Yea, it does. That is why I went with the smaller .63 a/r turbine seeing as my displacement is my biggest problem dealing with lag; I detailed my offensive for combating it in an earlier post. Basically, my powerband will be shifted up by ~1000rpm thanks to:
- camshaft with a turbo-specific profile capable of making power to 9000+rpm...
- springs/retainers that reduce overall valvetrain mass allowing 'safe' operation at that rpm...
- balanced bottom end (for the same reason)
So seeing max boost at around 5000ish rpm is a moot point when between each shift I won't be at any less than 6500rpm... Well, that's the plan anyway! I get more and more excited with each post, so again, as I mentioned previously, I need to get downstairs to the basement to get to selling some more parts. (My father and I run a small auto salvage detail here in Baltimore, MD...)
That is all for now...
I used Rockford Fosgate 2AWG oxygen-free wire for the main power going directly to the starter post. For the grounds, I used two OEM Honda grounding straps; the ones that connect the chassis to the transmission bracket on an EG/DC. Also from an EG/DC, the battery tie-down hardware fit perfectly. Obviously, I had to drill into the floor... I made sure to use a battery tray under each as well.
You can't really see this in the pic, but the four tie-down rods are about 0.5" higher than the battery terminals themselves. This was a big plus since the tire well cover on the wagons are metal, not fiber board like a lot of Hondas. This could have caused a MAJOR issue, oh I don't know, somewhere in the realm of a FIRE in the back of my wagon. Not cool.
No major updates worth writing about at the moment...
The side business is moving along quite well (as it should given the time of year) -- the success of which has a direct correlation to the amount of $ that I can spend on this b00st project.
I've (sort-of) finished my valvespring compressor tool, at least to the point of using it, with wooded uprights that I didn't want to use... (pic) but, it works like a dream... I fabricated EVERYTHING you see -- including the Delrin (Nylon) plunger w/ valve lock remover WINDOW... We have a few manual machines here, but mostly CNCs.
So the valves were removed and I started to clean the head up quite a bit. Part of the deal that I have arranged with Dave at Headgames involves him receiving my head in "read-to-port" condition. As such, there are a few more hours worth of clean-up and modification that I want to do before I send it out. The current gameplan is to have it boxed up and shipped out by this time next week.
What all is getting done to the head? A LOT... FULL street/race port which includes chamber work (deburr, deshroud, soften, etc.), bronze guide install, nice valve job and minimal re-surface. After talking with a few folks and doing massive research, I decided to "go hard wit' it" and ordered Ferrea bronze guides, valve seals & Comp Plus (std size) valves (yes, they're Inconel, or as Ferrea says, 'Super Alloy'). This should allow me to push the EGT's a little hotter raising the probability that I will hit my goal of 555awhp. Regarding the decision to stay with stock size valves, there was a lot that went into it. i.e. my bore size (stock, 75.00mm), displacement, cam profile, etc. Once I receive the head back from HG, I will be doing the full assembly. ETA, three weeks.
Hopefully by that time, I will have some more funding available to me to get the Y8 block sleeved by GE. If I remember correctly, the quote I got from them was ~$1600 -- which included me sending my CP pistons with the block so they could do the final bore & hone. Piston-to-Wall clearance will be discussed once I send them the block and yes, it will be o-ringed (as GE recommends).
Out of time for now, but there's some more things to add, I'll try to get some more stuff up tomorrow...
AAAnd the lonely 6262 in pieces.. [wipes tear from left eye... why left? idfk]
This is actually my first time doing the aforementioned kit in an RT tranny and man-oh-man was I in my glory taking the transfer case apart.
Here's a few pics of the progress:
And my Z6 head is finally nearing the point of being ready to send to Headgames -- hopefully this week. There is still a couple of details that I want to take care of; mostly deburring all of the sharp edges (which seem to be everywhere). I also intend on radiusing some of the oil galleys for better flow characteristics. Oiling issues + 9000rpm = LOTS of wasted money... and I don't particularly like to waste money. Oh yea, I'm gonna press the stock guides out before sending it out as well. Have to get in to work early one of these days and get the head on a CMM to take some measurements...
Stay tuned... (or don't, IDC)
I'll be grinding on the head this afternoon so I should have some progress pics up later on...
1.) I ordered the Gearspeed carbon-moly synchro kit for the RT tranny that I am rebuilding for a member here. I am hoping to have the gearsets dis-assembled by the time the kit arrives so that I can more-or-less begin re-assembling the transmission.
2.) I have continued to work on my Z6 cylinder head and have now decided that I (rather than Headgames) will be doing the following combustion chamber work:
- "de-shrouding" the valve seats
- "softening" (deburring) all transitional geometry (corners)
I am still going to send the head out (to Headgames) for a FULL port job, bronze guide install/hone-to-fit valves, deck mill to ensure flatness.
Pics of progress (nothing is finished at this point):
BEFORE
AFTER (STILL NOT 100% FINISHED, but you get the point)
and some more progress on the VTEC system oil galleys
Are you getting any custom valve stuff done or just a general cleanup? Just curious as to if there's some 5 angle or full radius stuff in the works.
I'll have to look back over the email chain between Dave and I, but I *believe* it will be a radius/angle combination. I'm due to send the head out just as soon as I finish off the chambers.
The coilovers have performed very well, overall. If I had to voice a complaint about anything, it would be the quality of the corrosion-inhibiting surface finish. I'll have to get some pics, but for the most part, the dry-film lubricant on the shock tube has not held up very well. Also, the front two brake line brackets needed to be bent on more of an angle for OEM brake line placement... Nothing a pair of adjustable wrenches couldn't take care of in < 5 mins. If you read in one of my above posts, for my personal "feel", I have the dampening adjustment at about 15 (of 18 being the hardest/stiffest). Anything less than 10 is SUPER spongy.
As for an update on the chamber project, I've got one chamber to about 85% completion, the other three just need final wet-sanding by hand followed by the maroon scotch-brite finish. The material itself has been removed though. I've actually REALLY enjoyed doing this modification. Its benefits cannot be over-stated. If you're having trouble wondering how/why someone would take the time to do all of this? Sharp edges and protrusions into the combustion chamber not only hurt flow by creating turbulence, but they also create hot spots due to some complicated thermodynamic principles. I'd recommend spending several hours on theoldone.com in the Archives section. Yes, that's ENDYN's site. I don't believe 'they' are in business any longer, but their former employees have gone on to be a part of MANY of the big-name companies in the game today.
In the "BEFORE" pic, you can very clearly see the raised sharp edges (more pronounced on the exhaust side) all around each valve seat. The exhaust seats also have a deeper installed depth for reasons that can too be defined by a complicated thermodynamic formula dealing with heat transfer from valve-to-seat-to-head.
The "AFTER" pic clearly shows 'softened' geometric transitions in addition to a modified surface finish which still isn't done, but coming along nicely. What you see in this pic is the result of wet-sanding with 400-grit "WET-OR-DRY" paper AFTER the raised edges have been knocked down using an arsenal of small hand files.
I'm hoping to have an update this time tomorrow with further progress.
Cheers.
BEFORE
AFTER
1.) The Gearspeed carbon-moly synchro kit has arrived. I have not had chance to get the gearset dis-assembled in preparation for the install, but I am hopeful that by this time next week, I'll be posting an update with finished pics. Stay posted...
2.) I'm gonna go ahead and call #4 combustion chamber complete. *!!YAY!!* -- I might try and do a little something to the pits that are visible, but the black soot from wet-sanding is making them look A LOT worse than they really are. I really don't want to remove any more material than necessary ... Theoretically ... the more material removed -> the more volume the chamber will have -> the lower my compression ratio will be. The CP 9.0:1 pistons that I will be running have a .003" - .006" thick ceramic Gold-Coat thermal barrier on the domes, so I can surmise that my c.r. will remain ~9.0:1. Also, I do intend on CC'ing each chamber to confirm that they're all within a reasonable range of one another. Probably get to that this weekend.
And nice head work btw!
I'd also like to know where you sourced the synchro kit from
You should also look into innovative mounts, they sell a rt4wd kit.
<---future owner of said tranny.
-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/151645670975 is for L3, S20 & S40 trannys... the RT trans is a L3...
...and sorry for not having any pictures of the problem, I got frustrated by my findings and went outside for a smoke, never to return to the work area yesterday.
So what happened was: Yesterday (Sunday) morning, I began disassembling the gear change mechanism/shift fork assemblies of the RT transmission that I am rebuilding for usdm420. During this time, I started to visually survey the gear set, taking mental notes, etc. It was apparent to me rather quickly that the lower "half" of the countershaft assembly was quite a bit larger (in terms of
I wish I had an update to share, but unfortunately I do not. Been busy with family-oriented matters.
So at this point (Thursday), It probably will not be until Saturday A.M. when I am really able to spend some time on the tranny. I've had a couple of minutes here and there to be able to kind-of "hover" over the transmission to get a mental game-plan in place. I really don't like delving into semi-major tasks without knowing that I have AT LEAST an hour+ to dedicate to that task. I'm the kind of mechanic who is overly meticulous about the fine details of my projects. I spend a lot of time taking mental "pictures" and "notes", which from an outsider's perspective, would look like I'm "spacing out", LOL. This character trait makes billing by the hour difficult; so I've had to resort to billing by the job and most of the time I end up loosing my ass because I spend WAYYY more time than I should on any given job. But that's a good thing I guess... ...from the customer's point of view anyway. Well I guess that works both ways actually, because if the customer is happy, than so am I. Since first getting into the Honda/Acura scene back in 1999, I've done close to a dozen transmission rebuilds and they've yielded me nothing but satisfied customers. Not that I'm thee BEST mechanic in the world, but I'd put myself way up the "list" (if such thing existed).
Will advise...