B16A Coming this summer!

Well here how i figured to do this.

When spring come around ill turbo my D15 till it blows. In the mean time as i drive that to work and ill be saving for a 92-95 B16A to swap.

I figured if i get Racing cams set them to Naturally Aspirated, new belts, Cap n rotor, sparks n wires, CV's, New oil, trans fluid, Cold air and exhaust and play with the ecu i guess get around 32-35mpgs if i shift around 3500Rpms, other then that I’m going to love the Extra 70hp over the stock. I might rebuild the motor with turbo parts then swap it. So if I decide to turbo it there wont be a issue. I’m the mean time I’m doing my homework and seeing what I can do with my budget.
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Comments

  • Personally, I think that's a waste of money. Going from a turbo D to a b16 will be a great disappointment for you. I think you should just buy a good turbo kit and build a spare motor so when the original blows, you got a spare and can up the boost. :twisted: It will give you way more power per dollar than a b16 swap.
  • If you are going to stay NA, I would definately go with the B16. It's pretty fast if you don't even rev out, but you WILL!!

    It's soooo hard to stay out of VTEC land.. Trust me.

    I think I've only got about 20-25mpg, I haven't checked it lately but I only get about 200-220 miles a tank, where I was getting 300-350 on the ole D15.

    The cams and stuff are going to make you need more fuel pressure, and that means less MPG.

    Why not stay OBD-0, it would be a lot cheaper..

    It cost me around $2500 for my complete swap.

    Good luck man, the B16 is a great engine for the price!!
  • quartersquarters Council Member
    I used to have a b16 crx si, and a d16z6 crx hf. The hf was waaaaaaay more fun to drive. The b16 crx was sorta like work when you wanted to just go to the store or are in traffic.

    maybe it's an unfair comparison because of the weight difference in those to cars. anyway, in my opionion, a d16z6 converted to obd-1 with bolt ons/ecu and you've got a fun ride and retain amazing fuel mileage.

    anyway, have fun doing whatever swap you decide, make sure there is plenty of beer and grass for those long sessions of diagnosis. somewhere around the third beer and second joint everything always becomes clear. i think.
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    curt wrote:
    how about h22?

    mine :twisted:
  • H22 is a 2.2L ?

    B16 a 1.6L

    I did look at the D16Z6, Maby if i wanted to i could get one. build it for a turbo blow my D15 and install the Z6 Turbo? Hmmm.
    Ideas are flying.

    though i would love a DOHC VTEC, i drove my friends 1996 civic and that's what gave me this crazy idea.

    hmmm??
  • If your swapping to a different series of motor, then I vote H :P
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    i've been doinbg some math on all this for a while now and (assuming everything goes as planned and you do the work yoursefl) the B16A swap would coast around $2600 start to finish and the H22A about $3700

    these are just my estimates from different materials and sources i have researched online
  • duckie8310duckie8310 Senior Wagonist
    hmm any reason why you're choosing the SIRII b16?

    imo, H-series would be a waste. too much down time, fabricating would be in order, the front end would weigh a ton, and do you want all that extra for larger displacement/50+hp over the b-series? but again, my opinion
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    duckie8310 wrote:
    hmm any reason why you're choosing the SIRII b16?

    imo, H-series would be a waste. too much down time, fabricating would be in order, the front end would weigh a ton, and do you want all that extra for larger displacement/50+hp over the b-series? but again, my opinion

    So 16lbs = a ton these days? :P
    Including gearbox the difference is about 16lbs.
  • duckie8310duckie8310 Senior Wagonist
    haha hey, since when did you start using pounds? no more kilograms for you? :lol:

    well thats just the engine right? are you adding in the oil too? what about all the other components needed to fab the engine to the car? i would think that all that would make the front end extremely heavy. i guess i'm wrong?
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    you dont really have to fab up much.

    all you need is:
    -a cable -> hydro conversion bracket, idk, maybe 1 lb.
    -alt. relocator bracket ~ 1lb
    either cut the front crossmember OR just get an aftermarket one, which you will prolly save weight with
    -mounts, prolly same weight
    -4th gen accord shifter cables

    as far as the engine itself, i guess the weight difference is 16 lbs??

    check out this website for a bunch of sweet info on H22A into EF/ED/EE etc.

    http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/
  • You also have to remember that the H22 has much more torque across the whole powerband. I would think that the H22 stock (especially H2B or H2D) would be at least equal with a b16 that has $1000 of upgrades. Look at the track times that people are getting with b16's vs h22s with only boltons. Even with the H transmission (the only downfall, IMO) it is still a much faster car.
  • Nothing wrong with H series, but if you want something with more power at a good price B16 all the way..

    As for work to get it going? WTF.. You sound like a Nissan driver.. (HAHA)
    If you consider shifting gears hard work, then I guess it is. I personally think the low geared tranny is a lot better for city driving.. Not as much down shifting..

    To each his own I suppose.

    Note:
    D16Z6 is already OBD-1, fun to drive, yes, but not near as fun as a B16 IMO.. Theres something about VTEC land.. The VTEC crossover is weak on SOHCs..


    Why not B18C5.. Same amount of power, less work to install..
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    B18C's are freaking expensive though. i think.

    nissan drivers :roll:
  • he Type-R engine is around $3000, thats about as much as it would cost for a H22, with less modding.

    I'm not sure on the torque number, but I know they have around 200-220 HP stock, and are capable of 12 second 1/4 miles stock..

    I'd get one of those before going H, but thats my personal opinion.


    Nissan drivers are gay. They complain about their cars having too much mileage at 50,000.. :roll:

    Honda drivers complain at 300,000 when they start burning a tad bit of oil but run fine.. haha
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    haha :lol:

    on jdmcustoms.com the H22 is $2150, the B18C Type-R is $4400.

    still way more expensive after you got the parts needed for both, plus there is 31 ft/lbs less torque then H22.

    the GSR B18C is $2400 but only has 178 HP.
  • Yeah, the Type-R has a lot more power than a normal GSR..

    Ehh.. I still dunno about the H22, I guess I haven't read a lot about it..

    BSERIES FO LIFE YO!!

    lol
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    :roll:

    D-SERIES FO LIFE!!!!
  • Taken from hmotorsonline... For $1900 you can get a obd1 h22a (200 hp 161 ft/lb torque) with all this shit:
    Motor
    - Hydraulic Tranny
    - ECU (P13)
    - Alternator
    - Starter
    - Clutch
    - Flywheel
    - Intake Manifold
    - Exhaust Manifold
    - Fuel Rail
    - Injectors
    - Distributor
    - Engine Harness
    - Comes With All Sensors Needed
    - LSD Tranny (Optional +$300)

    A type s H22 is $3300 with 220 hp and 163 ft/lb torque.
    A b16a range from $1350 to $2250.
    A type r is $3900 minimum for 200hp and 139ft/lb torque.
    A half decent somewhat used turbo d16 with stock internals should be possible for $1500 and result in ~200 hp and be fairly reliable.

    I voted H because for the money, it will be the best. And you all have heard that there is no replacement for displacement. More torque is always a help as well. I think a h22 will keep up or surpass a type r simply because of torque, and if it can't I would blame it on the gearing of the transmission. If you don't mind things getting interesting, I think a H2D or H2B is your best bet and slowly piece things together; it would probably be your best go fast per dollar bet (but A LOT of work).

    On the other hand I think an equally good option is a built (pistons, rods) D16 pushing about 250-270 horses. It should be nearly indestructable with a good tune, common sense, and maintance.

    Lastly, I would choose B series. Personally I think I would go with a B20 and a GSR transmission with LSD. If you want to boost later, go with a LS.

    I agree with you on the D-series vtec being weak, and pretty useless IMO. I don't too highly tought B series vtec either though. Having driven my friends GSR it was fun to watch it wind out, but I didn't even think it was extremely much better than a LS that I had owned. It was fun, but I really didn't like the loud as fawk intake noise change in vtec. But still, it is leaps and bounds ahead of the D version, and did improve performance, I'll give it that.

    I can't say I've driven a H22 powered car though, so feel free to ignore my opinion and do what you want.

    Personally I'm building a D16a6 with about 11-11.5:1 compression and possibly a 50 shot of nitrous. Mostly because I have all the parts I need except the cam, and it will be uber cheap compared to turbo (my other option as I have a 4wd). I just dug the block that I'm going to use out of my dad's shed on saturday, but expect some dynos/slips come this spring. My hatch will have a d16 turbo hopefully pushin 3-400 hp, but I didn't really even start on that car yet.

    On the other hand, stick a K in it :P :twisted:
  • Ultimately, I agree with Wago Dude......
    D-SERIES FO LIFE!!!!
    :mrgreen:
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    haha :wink:
  • Christ on a bike, you guys pay a lot for engine swaps :shock:
  • wagodizzlewagodizzle Council Member and EDM expert
    yeah we were deprived :x
  • Christ on a bike, you guys pay a lot for engine swaps Shocked

    Nah, I would never ever pay that much. I was just giving a reference because a lot of people do actually buy all their motor swaps from hmotorsonline and similiar places. I have swapped a lot of stuff into my cars, but its always just a motor or transmission because the last one kicked the bucket.
  • Cheese n rice :shock: You guys argue to much. But who am i to say.
    Proceed. :lol:

    duckie8310 Wrote
    hmm any reason why you're choosing the SIR II B?
    Well its in the price range I'm willing to spend, that a guess of $2700 but this also include motor swap, suspension upgrades, insulating the interior.
    My cars a ice BOX!

    Also when you compare it to the type R (AKA B16B) i think a friend told me its 3 wires less? (correct me if I'm wrong) for the ecu. Compared to however many for the B16B so less of a hassle.
    Last of all its not as bulky as the H22 thus a little more room the work with.

    Q: what are the advantages & disadvantages of a LSD tranny compared to stock?

    A Z6 ea? Ill look at that.
  • whoa, i just found something really cool.
    http://www.jazzproparts.com/category_s/15.htm

    now i dont know how good they are compared to h motors,
    but those are some good prices



    btw,
    and LSD tranny is what keeps the outer wheel from spinning when taking a sharp turn...a must have if you go anything but N/A.
  • 300zx300zx Wagonist
    I think you should go with the H22 engine.
    And the best way to install it is with a b series tranny.
    With the normal H22 setup in a civic, it would cause axle's to have a extreme angle and break often.
    But with a b series tranny the axles are at normal position.
    The tranny adapter kit is called H2B
    Google it :wink:
  • Why wouldn't he just do an h2d and massage the crap out of the drivers strut tower and frame rail. I think honda-tech has some threads on the work involved or you could contact bisimoto (bisimoto.com) because he makes them and ran one in his race car.
  • Here’s what I got it down to
    H22 cause a lot of my friends say its a little cheaper then a B16 and you get more torque.
    And like what 300zx said do a H2B.

    or a SOHC Vtec and turbo it with the scrap t3 turbo off a 1987 or 88 300ZX.
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