Bought in October 2012.
1989 RT4WD: Wanted specifically for Rio Red and pillar mounted seat belts. I don't care for the auto-belts.
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The engine bay. Before disassembly:
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Removed Z6 that I had rebuilt from my hatchback for future install[IMG][/img]
Removed excess brackets, filling holes, reparing damage, replacing seam sealer. Work done at Hendrick Honda in Charlotte, NC. I don't know body work, nor do I have a place to do it.
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Bacon, I live in atlanta, but my brother lives in Charlotte. He let me use his garage for a lot of this part of the build since I don't have my own garage. I owe him big time.
Moving on… a friend at Honda helped me by disassembling the transmission and checking things out. It looked pretty clean and solid so it was sealed back up.
The stock firewall insulation pad is gross, smells bad, and not particularly effective: Dynamat...
Dynaliner...
Tucked the brake lines...
Cleaned and resealed HVAC system...
I used an inexpensive brake flare tool for a while and ended up spending money on the nicer Mastercool Universal set. The Mastercool was easier to use and made much more dependable flares.
In addition to using new foam gasket on all the HVAC components, I also sealed all the duct work with duct tape to ensure proper system seal.
Dash going back together:
And interior mostly done...
Time for wire tuck...
This is where the wires re-enter the engine bay:
The battery was relocated to the rear, so my brother made a great new power harness from 4-gauge primary wire. All terminals were crimped and heat shrinked.
Driver's side in progress.
Driver's side done:
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Cowl got fresh paint and new clips These white clips were so brittle there was no hope of them being reused. I also put new foam sealant on the back of the cowl to seal it.
The goal was "super-clean stock". Maintaining all OE intended functionality while cleaning up the engine bay a bit.
Rywire D-Series budget tuck harness was used for engine harness. EVAP system was removed, Fuel filter components replaced with "ChaseBays" fuel line tuck kit.
There's still a lot of little things to do in the engine bay, but that part is mostly done at least. The body and suspension will get attention next I hope.
I went to the junkyard today No wagons, but a handful of 88/91s...
My antenna mast was broken. I pulled one from a sedan. They look approximately the same
Installed. Easy. Radio stations again, finally.
I also picked up 4 of the door sensor indicators from a 1992 Accord. I don't know if anyone else has noticed, our door sensors are not of the highest build quality. Corrosion/rust frequently causes ours to foul, and not work properly. The ones from the Accords appear to be engineered much better, and are a direct fit replacement.
I also replaced my rear hatch shocks. I don't know where I read it, either on this forum or a different one, but I once saw a user giving a DIY on how to replace hatch shocks. The process given involved a hacksaw, and cutting one of the ball joints on the end of the hatch struts. I did not find this step necessary.
1) Remove plastic covers on upper hatch pivot joint. This reveals 2 10mm bolts. Remove said bolts:
2) On lower strut mount point, the ball and socket assembly must be removed while still assembled. Pop loose the lower (dark grey colored) plastic trim piece, and pry the upper (light grey colored) piece forward to insert your wrench. Loosen and remove. Size of the stock ball assembly attachment bolt is 12mm. The image below is of the new strut installed.
3) After the old strut is removed, installing the new one is easy. The lower pivot joint has a clip (as picture above) and is pushed onto the ball joint after it is installed and tightened. 15 minutes from beginning to end. I used Monroe Shocks replacement as shown in picture.
Nice work on the bay. A nice flaring tool is so nice to have around the garage. I have one as well, and the ease in which you can flare is by far worth the cost. Good stuff going on here.
As much as I enjoy it's "beater" looks, I will eventually paint the exterior. It won't be cheap because I have to have someone weld in new rear quarters.
Where did you find those wire harness routing clips? The Honda dealer told me they were discontinued
Are you referring to post #10, with the wire tuck along the inside of the fender? Those are zip-ties. I (reluctantly) popped another hole in the support member to loop the zip-tie through. I also tried to locate those harness zip-tie things and was unsuccessful.
Today I repaired my left front window regulator. The old one was shot. I used a new regulator designed for a sedan and with a little modification, it works great. I made a "How-To" post at the below link:
In addition to simply replacing the regulator, I also installed Dynamat and resealed the moisture barrier.
I removed everything and cleaned off all the dirt and tired adhesive.
Then I applied the Dynamat. I never cut the hole out for the opening on the top right because it doesn't seem to serve a purpose, and it ought to help seal the door.
Then I reinstalled the moisture barrier. I was not particularly happy about reusing the old one, but it wasn't too bad and I had forgotten to pick up a shower curtain. (I saw another user cut up a shower curtain for a new moisture barrier, which sounds like a great idea.)
One last idea, it seems to be a common problem that our window seals start to sag at the top right corner. I pulled it out, cleaned it up, and put some good double sided tape around the corner to (hopefully) keep the seal pushed up into the corner.
It's great having a good regulator again. Makes the car seem like less of a heap.
I think I've got to do some suspension maintenance soon.
Well fellas, I've decided to move on. As much as I like my wagon, I've decided to sell it.
I'm 6-05 and 32 years old. I've owned almost exclusively small imports for over 16 years. I now have 2 kids and I have my doubts about the safety of the wagon for them. I really wanted to get into the wagon, but just find myself feeling cramped and uncomfortable. I spend over 17 hours a week in the car, so you can imagine how this could get tiresome for me.
When I got the wagon, I wanted it to be my last car for a long time, and I said I wouldn't sell it since they are so cheap to keep. But I live in a condo with no garage and if I was to keep it, it would basically rot on the side of the street until it was towed/stolen. It's a great car, it's just too small for me. I would rather it go to someone who wants to use it now, and will appreciate it.
I will be posting it for sale on this forum exclusively for now, in hopes that it will go to a wagon owner who will appreciate it.
-Ridge
Comments
Removed Z6 that I had rebuilt from my hatchback for future install[IMG][/img]
Removed excess brackets, filling holes, reparing damage, replacing seam sealer. Work done at Hendrick Honda in Charlotte, NC. I don't know body work, nor do I have a place to do it.
[IMG][/img]
[IMG][/img][IMG][/img]
[IMG][/img]
Bacon, I live in atlanta, but my brother lives in Charlotte. He let me use his garage for a lot of this part of the build since I don't have my own garage. I owe him big time.
[IMG][/img]
The stock firewall insulation pad is gross, smells bad, and not particularly effective:
Dynamat...
Dynaliner...
Tucked the brake lines...
Cleaned and resealed HVAC system...
In addition to using new foam gasket on all the HVAC components, I also sealed all the duct work with duct tape to ensure proper system seal.
Dash going back together:
And interior mostly done...
This is where the wires re-enter the engine bay:
The battery was relocated to the rear, so my brother made a great new power harness from 4-gauge primary wire. All terminals were crimped and heat shrinked.
Driver's side in progress.
Driver's side done:
[IMG][/img]
Cowl got fresh paint and new clips These white clips were so brittle there was no hope of them being reused. I also put new foam sealant on the back of the cowl to seal it.
And After:
The goal was "super-clean stock". Maintaining all OE intended functionality while cleaning up the engine bay a bit.
Rywire D-Series budget tuck harness was used for engine harness. EVAP system was removed, Fuel filter components replaced with "ChaseBays" fuel line tuck kit.
There's still a lot of little things to do in the engine bay, but that part is mostly done at least. The body and suspension will get attention next I hope.
Looks wicked. Anxious to see more
My antenna mast was broken. I pulled one from a sedan. They look approximately the same
Installed. Easy. Radio stations again, finally.
I also picked up 4 of the door sensor indicators from a 1992 Accord. I don't know if anyone else has noticed, our door sensors are not of the highest build quality. Corrosion/rust frequently causes ours to foul, and not work properly. The ones from the Accords appear to be engineered much better, and are a direct fit replacement.
Easy upgrade...
1) Remove plastic covers on upper hatch pivot joint. This reveals 2 10mm bolts. Remove said bolts:
2) On lower strut mount point, the ball and socket assembly must be removed while still assembled. Pop loose the lower (dark grey colored) plastic trim piece, and pry the upper (light grey colored) piece forward to insert your wrench. Loosen and remove. Size of the stock ball assembly attachment bolt is 12mm. The image below is of the new strut installed.
3) After the old strut is removed, installing the new one is easy. The lower pivot joint has a clip (as picture above) and is pushed onto the ball joint after it is installed and tightened. 15 minutes from beginning to end. I used Monroe Shocks replacement as shown in picture.
Are you referring to post #10, with the wire tuck along the inside of the fender? Those are zip-ties. I (reluctantly) popped another hole in the support member to loop the zip-tie through. I also tried to locate those harness zip-tie things and was unsuccessful.
http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?18319-HOW-TO-R-amp-R-Driver-s-Side-Window-Regulator&p=217969#post217969
In addition to simply replacing the regulator, I also installed Dynamat and resealed the moisture barrier.
I removed everything and cleaned off all the dirt and tired adhesive.
Then I applied the Dynamat. I never cut the hole out for the opening on the top right because it doesn't seem to serve a purpose, and it ought to help seal the door.
Then I reinstalled the moisture barrier. I was not particularly happy about reusing the old one, but it wasn't too bad and I had forgotten to pick up a shower curtain. (I saw another user cut up a shower curtain for a new moisture barrier, which sounds like a great idea.)
One last idea, it seems to be a common problem that our window seals start to sag at the top right corner. I pulled it out, cleaned it up, and put some good double sided tape around the corner to (hopefully) keep the seal pushed up into the corner.
It's great having a good regulator again. Makes the car seem like less of a heap.
I think I've got to do some suspension maintenance soon.
I'm 6-05 and 32 years old. I've owned almost exclusively small imports for over 16 years. I now have 2 kids and I have my doubts about the safety of the wagon for them. I really wanted to get into the wagon, but just find myself feeling cramped and uncomfortable. I spend over 17 hours a week in the car, so you can imagine how this could get tiresome for me.
When I got the wagon, I wanted it to be my last car for a long time, and I said I wouldn't sell it since they are so cheap to keep. But I live in a condo with no garage and if I was to keep it, it would basically rot on the side of the street until it was towed/stolen. It's a great car, it's just too small for me. I would rather it go to someone who wants to use it now, and will appreciate it.
I will be posting it for sale on this forum exclusively for now, in hopes that it will go to a wagon owner who will appreciate it.
-Ridge