Based on this photo, which is an actual count of the teeth on the gears in my transmission, and the rear diff ratio of 2.529:1 which I've also counted, we can conclude the following:
1 revolution of the front wheels, which translates to 1 revolution of the 53 tooth gear leads to 2.3043 revolutions of the 23t gear, which leads to 2.547 revolutions of the 19t gear (2.3043 x 21 / 19). That 19t gear is attached to the driveshaft, so for every revolution of the front wheels, the driveshaft turns 2.547 times. With the rear diff being 2.529, that means the rear wheels turn 99.3% the speed of the front wheels based solely on the drivetrain. Since the rear wheels are going to be turning the same speed as the fronts (unless there's some slip), we can conclude that there is no viscous coupler pre-load in the Honda Wagon system.
Sooo...conclusion??? hahaha....it seems like if the front and rear are spinning at essentially the same speed, then a 1 piece driveshaft wouldn't really be an issue (but how much does that 0.7% speed difference influence things? - it seems like that could be enough to mess some stuff up, or at least ruin the reliability of the drivetrain...)
Also there is a complete driveshaft setup for sale in the parts marketplace right now, if that could be any help to this project......
i'd say at that much with two open diffs probably just accelerated wear on the diff, transfer case, or tires. safe for hard driving? i'd think so. Would I do it on a daily? naa i'd rather just throw a diff in the rear and call it a day. that's my plan anyway.
new flanges and u-joints would be incredible though
yeah that really doesn't seem too bad considering the material...
I really just want to know if I can get a replacement 2 piece driveshaft in case my u-joint replacement goes awry for some reason....e.g. balancing issues or that sort of thing. Mine will be daily and hard driven hahaha
Interesting. So, say you throw a Phantom Grip in the back, since they say it's the same front or rear, theoretically would that eliminate the 0.7% slippage? If indeed the ratio variance is in the ring and not the pinion.
Google phantom grip. It's named that way for a reason. If that's the only company that makes one for us, still avoid.
i also want replaceable shafts instead of a rebuilt "unrebuildable" u-joint. So I'll keep working on it guys. I'm pretty persistent and willing to work hard on sourcing something for us.
Interesting. So, say you throw a Phantom Grip in the back, since they say it's the same front or rear, theoretically would that eliminate the 0.7% slippage? If indeed the ratio variance is in the ring and not the pinion.
the rear is essentially dragging and the "slippage" of .7% happens in the VC. addition of the diff, (preferably drilled out ring gear dseries quaiffe or mfactory over a phantom grip) would eliminate one rear wheel spinning while the other doesn't but wouldn't change anything unless you made the rear gear lower. addition of a diff shouldn't do that.
with it that low though i honestly dont know if eliminating the VC would make too much of a difference. if anyone wants to test just put some spot welds on your VC. where that outer ring meets the inner and see if it binds.
my friend mark has a rt4wd wagon trans in his yellow crx with a shortened rear half and did that, no issues yet but hes pushing well over 400 out of a built turbo F with a trans adapter and hasn't snapped anything yet
Let us know how that works out...... I live about an hour from dss. If I need to take them a driveshaft I can probably round one up in a junkyard and do that.
my friend mark has a rt4wd wagon trans in his yellow crx with a shortened rear half and did that, no issues yet but hes pushing well over 400 out of a built turbo F with a trans adapter and hasn't snapped anything yet
Holy cow I would love to see a build thread on that
He sent me the FB lol. It's nasty. We are kind of at a stand still with DSS and my local shop ate his words like I told him he would when he had no solutions for me. If I can snag another entire set-up, I plan to send DSS my stuff and see what they can make of it.
Comments
from http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?7942-After-disengage-4wd-on-my-wagon-can-I-drive-it&p=101589&viewfull=1#post101589
Also there is a complete driveshaft setup for sale in the parts marketplace right now, if that could be any help to this project......
new flanges and u-joints would be incredible though
1400 isn't too bad for a solid cf shaft though!
I really just want to know if I can get a replacement 2 piece driveshaft in case my u-joint replacement goes awry for some reason....e.g. balancing issues or that sort of thing. Mine will be daily and hard driven hahaha
i also want replaceable shafts instead of a rebuilt "unrebuildable" u-joint. So I'll keep working on it guys. I'm pretty persistent and willing to work hard on sourcing something for us.
the rear is essentially dragging and the "slippage" of .7% happens in the VC. addition of the diff, (preferably drilled out ring gear dseries quaiffe or mfactory over a phantom grip) would eliminate one rear wheel spinning while the other doesn't but wouldn't change anything unless you made the rear gear lower. addition of a diff shouldn't do that.
with it that low though i honestly dont know if eliminating the VC would make too much of a difference. if anyone wants to test just put some spot welds on your VC. where that outer ring meets the inner and see if it binds.
my friend mark has a rt4wd wagon trans in his yellow crx with a shortened rear half and did that, no issues yet but hes pushing well over 400 out of a built turbo F with a trans adapter and hasn't snapped anything yet
Holy cow I would love to see a build thread on that