RT4WD Rear Drum Brake Assembly (Question)

503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
in Suspension, Braking & Wheels
I tried to take the drum off my drum brake and it's not budging. Before I start smashing and blow torching it is there something I'm missing? I'm not familiar with the RT4WD rear end and I don't want to break anything, no pun intended.

And yes the parking brake is off.

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Comments

  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    I'm not sure what that shiny metal cap there is, but I think you can get a small bolt (10mm?) and run it through those little holes in the casting to get it to break free (similar to the rotors on the front brakes).

    Oh and make sure your e-brake isn't on! hahahah...other than that, pound away!
  • civtec350civtec350 Wagonist
    you dont have to take off the shiny dust cap. the easiest way to get the drum off is to thread 2 bolts (i believe they are 8mmx1.25 thread pitch)into the 2 threaded holes in the drum. the bolts will hit the face of the hub and push the drum away from it. work the bolts in evenly, so the drum doesnt twist, and pull a shoe off with it.
  • 503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
    Ok good nothing special then. Thanks for the speedy reply. One more question though, once I replace the brakes how do you adjust them properly. Normally you spin the wheel and see how much it drags but with the RT the axle drags way before the brake ever would. Any solution?
  • truckslammertruckslammer Moderator
    Before you use the jacking bolts noted above, make sure you have the self-adjuster turned back or loosened. There is a rubber plug (or supposed to be there) on the backing plate and it gets you access unto the backside of the drum assy where the self adjuster is located. You can use a screw driver and back it off so that the drum shoes retract inwards and lets the drum slip over the shoes. Especially necessary if the drums are old and have a large groove worn into them like my 88 DX had last summer when I bought it. I am not at home for pics but search around here and you'll find complete instructions to help you.
  • drfinkdrfink Wagonist
    I always just take a 5lbs sledge and hit the drum as hard as I can untl it comes off. Its worked every time for me.

    The Honda rear drum setup is a self adjusting assembly, you screw in the self adjusting wheel until you feel a slight drag on the drum as you slide it on, and then just do a couple hard brakes. The self adjuster automatically adjusts itself under hard braking.
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    drfink wrote: »
    I always just take a 5lbs sledge and hit the drum as hard as I can untl it comes off. Its worked every time for me.

    The Honda rear drum setup is a self adjusting assembly, you screw in the self adjusting wheel until you feel a slight drag on the drum as you slide it on, and then just do a couple hard brakes. The self adjuster automatically adjusts itself under hard braking.

    ditto...hahahah
  • 503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
    Thanks for all the info everyone. Got it off. Bolts worked like magic. Only problem now is finding a place that sells the drum and drum pads Haha.
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    503-Hill-Billy wrote: »
    Thanks for all the info everyone. Got it off. Bolts worked like magic. Only problem now is finding a place that sells the drum and drum pads Haha.

    Unfortunately with a wagon, things like this need to be planned before you tear it apart...
  • 503Wagon503Wagon moderator
    napa sells them. If you need help let me know, my number is 503-706-1778. I've got a very good relationship with my napa commercial manager here in Clackamas. Anything that is available, I can find.
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    I got the brake shoes (they had BrakeSelect and Wagner brands available) from OReilley's...beware though their system doesn't really have everything organized well enough for them to know obviously what parts you need. You need parts for a 200mm diameter brake drum, not the 180mm. They also sell hardware kits (springs, etc.), self-adjusters, and I believe they sell the drums as well. Just make sure they know to order all of these parts for a 200mm drum or they might accidentally select 180mm. They may have to special order some of the parts (Wagner shoes were special order but BrakeSelect weren't).

    I got the Wagner shoes, all hardware, and new self adjusters for ~$100. Didn't need new drums though, they were able to just turn mine.

    EDIT: Also got the drum hydraulic cylinders (BrakeSelect was the only brand available) from them, as part of that $100 price.
  • 503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
    skittlenips wrote: »
    I got the brake shoes (they had BrakeSelect and Wagner brands available) from OReilley's...beware though their system doesn't really have everything organized well enough for them to know obviously what parts you need. You need parts for a 200mm diameter brake drum, not the 180mm. They also sell hardware kits (springs, etc.), self-adjusters, and I believe they sell the drums as well. Just make sure they know to order all of these parts for a 200mm drum or they might accidentally select 180mm. They may have to special order some of the parts (Wagner shoes were special order but BrakeSelect weren't).

    I got the Wagner shoes, all hardware, and new self adjusters for ~$100. Didn't need new drums though, they were able to just turn mine.

    EDIT: Also got the drum hydraulic cylinders (BrakeSelect was the only brand available) from them, as part of that $100 price.


    Nice! Yeah I brought mine into baxters and they hooked it up. Now I'm looking at getting everything new on the front brakes but I'm working 72 hours straight.
  • Mac-10Mac-10 Band Wagon
    skittlenips wrote: »
    I got the brake shoes (they had BrakeSelect and Wagner brands available) from OReilley's...beware though their system doesn't really have everything organized well enough for them to know obviously what parts you need. You need parts for a 200mm diameter brake drum, not the 180mm. They also sell hardware kits (springs, etc.), self-adjusters, and I believe they sell the drums as well. Just make sure they know to order all of these parts for a 200mm drum or they might accidentally select 180mm. They may have to special order some of the parts (Wagner shoes were special order but BrakeSelect weren't).

    I got the Wagner shoes, all hardware, and new self adjusters for ~$100. Didn't need new drums though, they were able to just turn mine.

    EDIT: Also got the drum hydraulic cylinders (BrakeSelect was the only brand available) from them, as part of that $100 price.



    Would you happen to have the part number for the brake shoes? The shop doing mine has went through 5 different sets and can't seem to find any to match.
  • 503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
    I haven't installed them yet I keep running into problems.
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    Mac-10 wrote: »
    Would you happen to have the part number for the brake shoes? The shop doing mine has went through 5 different sets and can't seem to find any to match.

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WAG1/PAB545/03353.oap?year=1990&make=Honda&model=Civic&vi=1381126&ck=Search_drum+shoes_C0068_1381126_-1&keyword=drum+shoes&pt=C0068&ppt=C0009

    Part number: PAB545
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    503-Hill-Billy wrote: »
    I haven't installed them yet I keep running into problems.

    What problems?
  • 503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
    Just stupid crap. I was installing new rear trailing arm bushings with the installer tool and it bent my trailing arms. Now I'm pulling the trailing arms to bend them back and broke this piece that attaches the ebrake to the drum. Then I noticed I had a bad wheel bearing. Haha. At this point I've broken way more stuff then fixed.
  • BrakeExpertBrakeExpert New Wagonist
    How exactly did a bushing tool for the RTA bend the freakin trailing arm? You know those can be removed with a mallet, right? Now if you don't know how to disassemble the drum and remove the trailing arm, then I understand. must be a powerful tool though.
  • 503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
    They hammered out just fine but I couldn't hammer the new ones in. Bought the tool to press them. Its hard to explain but basically the bushing wouldn't push in on both sides and it pulled the metal where the tool attaches towards the outsides of the car. I used spring compressors and a torch to bend them back. Worked very well. I talked to my mechanic and he said its rare but some times you need to have the new oem bushings shaved down to fit properly. Him and a bunch of other people recommended I use the energy suspension bushings. So thats what I did. Arms look and great now. My build post is below and you can see more there.
  • 503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
    Ps when are you gonna start selling that s2000 brake conversion?
  • cwin13cwin13 New Wagonist
    I had the same problem with the drums getting stuck and didn't have bolts to push it off so I took a hammer and bashed a hole in the drum :encouragement: I also was given the wrong brake shoes and lost the receipt so now I gotta buy another set but the 200mm ones. good luck with your wagon, drum brakes suck to work on
  • 1991 civic wagon1991 civic wagon Band Wagon
    I just had the same issue with the trailing arm bushings. I don't think that the new units sold are fully round. One side of them will start with a hammer but the other side will not go it. This makes is cocked eyed and certainly will not go it at this point. I ended up having to use a press. Even with a press they still went in very strangely. It would take a lot of pressure build up then release it by pressing in the bushing by maybe 1/32 to 1/16. Not a normal simple slow travel down. I hope I never have to take them out because I don't see them coming out as easy as the old set. That only took about 10 wacks with a small hammer.
  • HaydzHaydz Moderator
    What brand RTA bushes did you guys use?

    I have used both Nolthane and Noltec with no issues.
  • 1991 civic wagon1991 civic wagon Band Wagon
    I got a set of "Dorman 905-750 Trailing Arm Bushing." Both had the same issue when being pressed in. I would not suggest them after my experience.
  • 503-Hill-Billy503-Hill-Billy Wagonist
    Idk what brand for me. It was labeled OEM from.... Baxters I think?
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