Here I am preparing to construct my downpipe out of these bends. The piece that is clamped is going to be the end of it, I used a 45 degree mandrel bend as a turndown. I can't do anything but the under car portion until my turbo gets here, though.
Nothing wrong with that. I've been rocking my harbor freight mig for a decade. Get some scrap pieces and test before using your freshly cut pieces. I ended up blowing a bunch of holes in tubing when I first started learning it. Especially given that I had naught but "High" and "Low" on the MIG itself.
There are people out there who can get it nearly looking like tig with the right settings.
One thing I've found for these is effectively doing a bunch of tacks on it. That thin wall stuff is gonna heat up pretty quick, so if you are welding segments, do maybe like an inch, then start working 180 degrees of the weld you just finished, that way it has some time to cool.
For getting your skills up, I'd definitely just recommend doing it like this. Zap a tack down, let it cool a bit, zap another tack down. Proceed. If you're so inclined you can even clean it up afterwards with a flap disc and I've seen some where they come out nearly seamless. Though personally I'd want a bit of weld material left on there anyway.
Good luck, hit me up if you have any welding questions. I'm still fairly amateur, but I have some knowledge from mistakes I've made. And have a shiny new hobart that I need to set up =D Were you down this way we could have some fun with it.
Yeah, luckily I have 4 different levels on mine. I didn't read your advice and I started on the tubing I had. I only blew 1 small hole, haha. I have a tendency to lay on way too much filler for some reason. And it probably doesn't help that I'm using just co2, makes the weld a little hotter than c25.
Hey at least you have some shielding gas, my old one was just flux only. And yeah. straight co2 is definitely gonna up the heat. Get some pics up though I'm anxious to see the progress.
Most of the welds that are visible in the picture i was using .035 solid wire, which was pretty difficult on 16ga tubing, having never welded before. I switched to .030 and they were comino out much better... but the only one that is visible is on the o2 bung.
You don't think zip ties will hold them? And actually, the injector dynamics injectors are the best 1000cc on the market, they are precision matched within 1% of eachother. It idles pretty solid just on the base map my tuner put on for me, but I imagine it will probably idle almost like a stock car once we clean it up a little.
Gonan be running right around 18-20 psi, looking for around 350. I know the fuel system is a little overkill, but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to upgrade it again, lol
I agree Injector Dynamics is the best, it's funny, I was just looking at the ID725 a few days ago.
Fastest d16 I've seen up here was 550hp @ 28psi........until his fuel pump failed and it leaned out under full boost, that was over quickly haha.
If I recall I'm peaking at about 28% duty cycle on RC650 that's at 14.5psi tuned rich so I'm guessing you will never need to worry about not having big enough injectors. Are you running a walboro 255?
Yes sir. The bottleneck in my fuel system is the banjo bolts now, but for the power levels I'm shooting for its not really necessary except for cool points.
Anyways though, I'm curious are zip ties really not going to be enough to hold my vacuum lines on?
I am going to go ahead and answer a big no on the zip ties. They just don't have the clamping action that, uh, hose clamps do and then they can become weak with exposure to heat, oil, fuel, sunlight and just plain old age eventually.
Really for aftermarket vacuum operated fixtures you don't normally need anything, if they have multiple barbs they should hold fine, it's the stock vacuum line connections I'd worry about
I am using a MAC boost control solenoid to control boost from the ecu. Basically, you t off of your positive pressure source, one side of the t goes to the bottom port on the wastegate and the other side goes to the 1st port on the boost solenoid. Then, the 2nd port on the boost solenoid gets routed to the top wastegate nipple. It's so I can use boost by gear, or change boost settings on the fly.
O I gotcha, I had been wondering how that worked, I just was never interested in ecu boost control, if anything down the road I'll get a turboxs dual stage
neptune has really great boost control capability, you just need to install a pwm circuit in your ecu. I can do boost by gear, boost by mph, boost by tps, its completely controllable via the ecu.
Yep Neptune ftw, I got the moates demon right when it came out, check out the anti-theft settings in the extra section of parameters, there's some pretty fun setups
I just upgraded to it from chrome and its awesome. :encouragement: I agree the anti theft settings are pretty cool, worth paying the $75 licensing fee just for that honestly.
Also I fixed my leaning radiator problem. I ended up taking out the stock t bar, so I could sit the radiator more forward, and I welded on a bracket onto my traction bar and made the one that you can see in the picture. I was having overheating problems with the turbo so close to the radiator. It's no longer an issue, but I do have a turbo blanket and heat wrap for my downpipe on the way to further help keep the turbo heat inside the turbo and exhaust.
I also have hood pins on the way due to the fact that I had to get rid of my t bracket and hood latch in order to move the radiator forward.
Very much so, I gained 80-100 ft pounds of torque throughout the mid and high rpm range, it hits full boost 1000 rpm sooner, and it holds boost between shifts excellently. It is an entirely different beast
Some pretty scary shit happened yesterday, somehow my oil filter sandwich plate came loose enough that it started spraying oil all over my exhaust during a 3rd gear pull and billowing smoke. At first I thought I had blown my t case or something equally catastrophic but when I towed it to my house, I noticed the issue. Still makes me a little nervous that it was potentially running on little to no oil pressure for a bit, but I went ahead and did an oil change immediately and it's still running great. (Phew) Damn solid mounts!
Comments
Here I am preparing to construct my downpipe out of these bends. The piece that is clamped is going to be the end of it, I used a 45 degree mandrel bend as a turndown. I can't do anything but the under car portion until my turbo gets here, though.
Turbo is scheduled to be here tomorrow and I feel like a little kid on Christmas eve.
It's gonna be ugly, because I just bought the welder and this is my first time fabbing something like this up
There are people out there who can get it nearly looking like tig with the right settings.
One thing I've found for these is effectively doing a bunch of tacks on it. That thin wall stuff is gonna heat up pretty quick, so if you are welding segments, do maybe like an inch, then start working 180 degrees of the weld you just finished, that way it has some time to cool.
For getting your skills up, I'd definitely just recommend doing it like this. Zap a tack down, let it cool a bit, zap another tack down. Proceed. If you're so inclined you can even clean it up afterwards with a flap disc and I've seen some where they come out nearly seamless. Though personally I'd want a bit of weld material left on there anyway.
Good luck, hit me up if you have any welding questions. I'm still fairly amateur, but I have some knowledge from mistakes I've made. And have a shiny new hobart that I need to set up =D Were you down this way we could have some fun with it.
Check out those id1000s!
Yes, I know my welds are hideous, I'm learning.
Ground clearance
how many psi are you going to be running? there is definitely the potential for 30+ psi running 1000cc injectors, idling is going to be a trick ;-p
your rig is pretty dope man
and please put hose clamps or similar on your vacuum lines
You don't think zip ties will hold them? And actually, the injector dynamics injectors are the best 1000cc on the market, they are precision matched within 1% of eachother. It idles pretty solid just on the base map my tuner put on for me, but I imagine it will probably idle almost like a stock car once we clean it up a little.
Gonan be running right around 18-20 psi, looking for around 350. I know the fuel system is a little overkill, but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to upgrade it again, lol
Fastest d16 I've seen up here was 550hp @ 28psi........until his fuel pump failed and it leaned out under full boost, that was over quickly haha.
If I recall I'm peaking at about 28% duty cycle on RC650 that's at 14.5psi tuned rich so I'm guessing you will never need to worry about not having big enough injectors. Are you running a walboro 255?
Anyways though, I'm curious are zip ties really not going to be enough to hold my vacuum lines on?
This was on a mustang dyno.
Also I fixed my leaning radiator problem. I ended up taking out the stock t bar, so I could sit the radiator more forward, and I welded on a bracket onto my traction bar and made the one that you can see in the picture. I was having overheating problems with the turbo so close to the radiator. It's no longer an issue, but I do have a turbo blanket and heat wrap for my downpipe on the way to further help keep the turbo heat inside the turbo and exhaust.
I also have hood pins on the way due to the fact that I had to get rid of my t bracket and hood latch in order to move the radiator forward.