traction bars

do we need these? or will i not have any problems with wheelhop after turboing?

Comments

  • I figure if people have trouble in any other EF then it'll be the same for the shuttle.
    Certainly I've been in some EF's with them fitted and boy do they make a big difference. I'll be considering it for my shuttle after I've gone boost.
  • i believe that most traction bars out right now for ef's require replacing the cross member believe it or not. But there may be a few out there that doesn't. someone correct me if i'm wrong.

    I'd imagine that traction bars would really make a world of a difference after you go boost. Guys over at d-series.org always talk about how first and second gears are nonexistent because of tire spin and third would finally catch traction. Make sure you have a decent strut/spring combo as well.
  • You could do a ghetto one by just swapping out the rubber in the existing tie arms for solid mounting. Something like a rosejoint / spherical bearing.
    It's probs just easier to swap the x-member. Plus they were making them from metal bars to allow for large turbos and 3" downpipes.
  • essentially if it were a race car that would be a no brainer but on its kinda risky business if at all driven on the street to remove the X member. i wonder if the X member would get in the way of a small IHI+ hf manifold setup on a RT hMmMmMm
  • i think the x-member is the same distance away from the engine in a hatch as it is in the rt4wd. i have started making a track bar for the wagon, but the radius rods and end links are pretty pricy. if i get a chance, i'll post picks of the progress. new ones are around $300 for a decent setup, so i am definaty making my own. befor everyone starts telling me about them binding up if they arent done corretly, i've done my homework. :wink:
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