Auto to Manual swap?

Joel_xxxJoel_xxx Band Wagon
in Engine & Drivetrain
My wagon (Auto D15b2) is all I've ever wanted. But the more I think about it the more I'd like to 5-speed swap it. What all exactly would I need? The obvious would be Tranny, shift linkage, clutch assembly, ecu(?), but what about all the little things I would need? I'm trying to get a full list of parts that I'd need for the swap. Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • monster dmonster d Wagonist
    I'm pretty sure you'll need a new flywheel and clutch also. It is pretty time, but well worth it!
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    RT or fwd?
  • JVracerJVracer New Wagonist
    i was wondering the same thing and looked for any links here but didnt find anything. mine fwd
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    I'm in the process of doing an RT auto to manual swap right now. Just got the motor in the other day. Here's the things I had to change:

    -Trans
    -Clutch assembly/pedal assembly
    -Shift Linkage
    -ECU
    -Passenger side trans mount bracket (the one that's actually welded to the frame)
    -Front rear subframe
    -Rear trans mount

    I think that covers everything...if you're only wanting to do a FWD auto to manual swap, I know you don't have to worry about the passenger side trans mount. You might also not have to worry about the subframe and rear trans mount, but I'm not 100% sure on that part.
  • trx357trx357 Band Wagon
    Depending on year you might have to drill a hole and install clucth cable mount support. Doing mine now its a 89 dx thats getting a built y8/a6 mini me and si trans.

    I used the pedal cluster off a 88 dx crx. Not to hard if you have the right tool and read up first.
  • Mo-VanMo-Van Wagonist
    Just a heads up as well, all cluth pedal assemblies are interchangeable from the EF chassis. Like TRX 357 said you may have to drill a hole if there isn't one.. Other than that the whole auto to manual is pretty much straight forward. GL!
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Clutch pedal assemblies are not the same in other "EFs". You can make it work in a pinch, but it will knock the HVAC ducting out of place every time you push the clutch pedal.
  • Mo-VanMo-Van Wagonist
    Not trying to be an ass but You may have a good point. However in my Wagon I have used the Hatch, Sedan, and CRX. Never once did I have an issue with my swap. I did not have any problems with the HVAC ducting getting misplaced. I have snapped 3 clutch pedals and 2 cables in my car just speaking from experience just like you Bam.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    It's cool. Like I said, it will work. I tried it, it worked, just not up to my standards.
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    How do you guys get around the 1" of difference in the rt vs non-rt clutch cables (since it seems the rt cable is not in production anymore)?
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I was not aware of that difference, hmmm. I guess I should hoard clutch cables, too!
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    ^^first I have heard of this as well. Doesn't make much sense to me really. Something I'll keep in mind...
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    Well I'm trying to figure out what to do about it right now. I bought a standard wagon clutch cable hoping the 1" difference would not be a big deal, but with the cable adjusted all the way out, the clutch is very slightly engaged. The main difference seems to be in the clutch "arm" and the adjuster "bracket" on the trans. On the RT, the distance between the two is approx. 6", on a regular wagon, it's approx. 4.75"-5".

    I actually came across the 1" difference when doing a search on this forum: http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?14205-rt4wd-clutch-cable-replacement-part-number&highlight=clutch+cable+replacement

    Based on that thread it looks like "PIONEER Clutch/Cable CA-506" is gonna be the only available replacement. I just called O'reilleys and they can special order it. Their system will NOT tell them exactly what one you need though. Their computer brings up the CA-506 and the CA-507. I'm assuming the CA-507 is probably the 1" shorter cable.

    Anyway I am going to go up there and pay for it so they'll order it for me. I'll report back on whether or not it works any better than the OEM fwd wagon cable. Hopefully there's no need to hoard!!
  • CharbCharb Administrator
    Good info! I never saw that original thread you linked. Good to know though.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I have several clutch cables coiled up in a bin out in the shop, I need to go thru them and see what's up. The Fool's Gold project is the only RT I've ever messed with. I don't recall having issues with clutch cable fit, but then again I don't remember whether it had the cable on the shell when I bought it.
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    Well, I figure if a non-rt clutch cable is stretched out enough from wear you probably would never know the difference...you might just notice that it doesn't have much room for adjustment. But then you probably risk breaking cables more often since you're able to stretch the cable past where it would normally be useless.
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    Cable "stretch" is a misnomer. There is no for e in play that would ever come near stretching that thing. Housing compression, ferrule degradation, dry rot all contribute
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    bam-bam wrote: »
    Cable "stretch" is a misnomer. There is no for e in play that would ever come near stretching that thing. Housing compression, ferrule degradation, dry rot all contribute

    Good point, the load on the cable is likely low enough to where stretching due to fatigue stresses would not be an issue. On the OEM cable, the wire is sealed in a plastic sheathing (I'm interested to see if the aftermarket cable is the same style), so I doubt corrosion is too big of an issue until that sheathing gets worn away - at which point wear due to friction between the individual steel strands is probably another factor that could cause some stretch in the wire itself. Once the strands start to narrow due to abrasion, the wire as a whole will "settle" to a slightly narrower profile, causing some stretch.

    But you're right, the housing likely compresses way more than the steel stretches in the normal life of the cable.
  • dmoore0412dmoore0412 Wagonist
    Hey guys hate to chime in and just ask questions. But I have a rt manual parts car. I have taken everything...everything needed to convert off. And I'm going to begin removing the auto parts this weekend. Just want to get my thought in line. I guess my question is.. could I contact anyone via cell text or call. I will be taking a lot of pictures so hope someone will make a sticky thread. My cell is 2405222634 this way someone can contact me and jot have there cell info on here. I hope for help and thank any and everyone
  • skittlenipsskittlenips Wagonist
    skittlenips wrote: »
    Well I'm trying to figure out what to do about it right now. I bought a standard wagon clutch cable hoping the 1" difference would not be a big deal, but with the cable adjusted all the way out, the clutch is very slightly engaged. The main difference seems to be in the clutch "arm" and the adjuster "bracket" on the trans. On the RT, the distance between the two is approx. 6", on a regular wagon, it's approx. 4.75"-5".

    I actually came across the 1" difference when doing a search on this forum: http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?14205-rt4wd-clutch-cable-replacement-part-number&highlight=clutch+cable+replacement

    Based on that thread it looks like "PIONEER Clutch/Cable CA-506" is gonna be the only available replacement. I just called O'reilleys and they can special order it. Their system will NOT tell them exactly what one you need though. Their computer brings up the CA-506 and the CA-507. I'm assuming the CA-507 is probably the 1" shorter cable.

    Anyway I am going to go up there and pay for it so they'll order it for me. I'll report back on whether or not it works any better than the OEM fwd wagon cable. Hopefully there's no need to hoard!!

    Well, I can confirm that that Pioneer part number CA-506 mentioned in the other thread DOES NOT work. It is the same length as the OEM fwd wagon cable, and seems to be about an inch short. I'm gonna return it to Oreilley's and try to get the CA-507 cable. Hopefully it will be the right length...
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