might have solved the non-replaceable u-joint delema
turbo_teg
Council Member
well tonight mike and I were looking at a wagon u-joint and an idea ive had came up. he had a brand new ford range u-joint that we were measuring up to see if it would fit into the ears. well the ford joint is a lil bigger but with a lil reeming the holes will still have tons of meat left on them and it looks like the C-clip will sit perfectly with maybe just a lil touch up from the die grinder. if this works no more having to spend major bucks on full replacement shafts from honda u will be able to go down to you local parts store and get a $20 u-joint like it should have been done.
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That's the kind of creative modding I like to read about.
My other means of transportation is a '99 Tomos moped and I belong to a couple moped forums to keep abreast of interesting mods for my 2-stroke ride.
Last summer a member of the MRA (Moped Riders Association) in Ontario figured out that Tomos mopeds can use a regular $5 Kympex snowmobile bulb available at Canadian Tire instead of the expensive ($20) Slovenian (moped is made in Slovenia) bulb.
I took that information and did a little techie with pics to illustrate the mod. You can see it here.
http://www.mopedriders.com/viewtopic.ph ... light+bulb
Anyhow, let us know how this mod works out for you.
Cheers !!
good to know!
I have done just that! and you know what happened?!
After install ballancing and other nonesence, it vibrates even worse that before!
I got it back to d-shaft shop for re-check.
I even used Rockford U-joints (they fit) 430-10B.
It seems to be a big BS on HONDA behalf. Subaru supports driveline servie parts for even older 4WD cars...
If this dreaded shaft doesn't come out ok this time, I am scrapping this stupid project and leaving it in 2WD for good!
Cheers!
That's what I was thinkin... Maybe your "bushings" that kinda hold the whole driveshaft assembly up are bad. Mine are sagging and will be getting replaced with the u-joint.
Never heard of that. Do you mean after you install them or what, because I've installed a couple u-joints (probably two or so chevy) and I just tapped them with a hammer after it's pressed/beat into place and that loosens them up.
I called honda for a price on the shaft today. They said $378, but when I asked how long it would take, they said discontinued. Is it true that they are completely discontinued with no hope of a new one?
In for results :!: :P :!:
Back to our prop shaft support bearings. When you install new ones, you will see they will sag a bit too. It is not unusual for veh with compound prop shafts to have support bushings/bearing to have some sag.
However, I do not eliminate bushing problem on a freaking million year old vehicle.
I do not want to sink money in this lil wagon.
I just want to make it right and drive it until wheels fall off.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Those bastards! They make good cars and then screw us into prematurely buying their less good new cars.
Good thought on the support bushings. I'll probably just leave them alone now. I wasn't sure about the amount of sag they naturally have.
Is it me, or should replacing the u-joint not cause an unbalanced shaft. It is, afterall, the shaft that is balanced and that has nothing to do with the u-joint unless extensive modifications were done to the shaft to make it fit. Not saying that the shaft will always be balanced afterwards; but it seems in theory it shouldn't affect it majorly.
Also, I know for certain that my u-joint is bad because I can see the innards of one joint. Only a tiny bit, but enough that I'm not using the vehicle til it gets fixed.
Disconn both prop shafts and check rotation of support bearings. VS coupling is very easy to check. It has to have serious amount of resistance as well as smooth rotation w/o chattering. There is an option, an expensive option though!
I have gotten a quote to build a new driveshaft to specs out of Isuzu blanks using different u-joints (I don't know size) with outer retaining clips. After all it would come out to bout 400$$. Question, is it worth it?
P.S
First, problem with reaming yoke bore could be serious. In a most severe case, one could loose d-shaft due to breakage at yoke (I’ have seen a few during my Jeepin' days). I wouldn’t do it because of liability!
Second, by doing "bore" job, it s highly possible to ruin pane at which u-joints operate. If a half of degree wouldn't do much when canceling angles, a few thousands could bring a devastating result which couldn't be easily balanced out!
Honestly, I am running out of options!
Unless I owned a machine shop or a driveline shop, I wouldn't spend too much money!
Nevertheless, if anyone comes up with a solution, an inexpensive "relatively", PLEASE share with fellow Wagonists!!!!
Cheers!
After I find one and get new u-joints I will tell how it worked out!
Keep your noses to the wind!
Cheers!
It s a hellowa dogy!
Cheers!
I think I'm perhaps suffering from terminology problems, but I really dunno wtf you are talking about and I'd rather lke to check it out and make sure I've got no problems in this location! :oops:
its located about half way down the driveshaft or so...
Is it a newly redesigned Traxxas CV shaft?
Is so pretty!