Noticed my front trans mount was SHOT so I ordered a new one and these Prothane press in inserts. Vibrates at idle but Ive had solid mounts and it doesn't compare to them and these make the response rate and feel of the car great. Recommend to anyone who can look past a little shaking at idle.
Had to do this for some reason idk why
OH yea that's why. My new shoes came in!
Avid.1 Av-18 15x8.5 +15 (klutch sl1 reps)
I got a local shop pretty pissed off about the tires and they ended up telling me not to come back with anything "stretched" even though they really are not that bad at all so idk what the big deal was.
Pulled in the camber on both rears and gave ole blue a much needed wash.
Now im sitting at -1.8 in camber the rear and -2 camber in the front.
oh and i tossed the neo chrome lugs for some gunmetal
A interior shot my buddy took up at the lake!
more pics to come stay tuned for some with a real camera.
Hey that's me! Thanks for letting us join the photo session! I get so excited to see other wagons running around town. We'll have to do it again. Maybe I will wash my car first.
Yeah, having a massive oil leak in the spark plug wells will do that. You should fix that before doing anything else. I'm surprised they honored a warranty when the wire is sitting in an oil bath. Replace the o-rings and that figure 8 one under the cam shaft. It's like $20.
I replaced the tube seals and vc gasket with the new wires but I'm not familiar with the figure 8 you are talking about under the cam. Tube had about a half inch of oil in the bottom. Right now my pedal assembly has broken so I need to get that out and weld it up. I'll have some pictures of the break and fix on here.
I replaced the tube seals and vc gasket with the new wires but I'm not familiar with the figure 8 you are talking about under the cam. Tube had about a half inch of oil in the bottom. Right now my pedal assembly has broken so I need to get that out and weld it up. I'll have some pictures of the break and fix on here.
Yeah, you replaced the top tube seals. There's another set below that are often more prone to leakage. So that's why you're burning through spark plug wires.
A shot from Killa's Wagon
Pull the whole rocker arm assembly. See how there are three o shaped seals and then one figure 8 shaped seal.
Get these from honda or online
3x 91301-PJ7-000
1x 91302-PJ7-003 - #4 cam holder
Put them in, torque the assembly back down to spec.
I did mine a month ago. After I saw your plug wires it prompted me to go check mine again. Dry as a bone. And I had oil in all four. We also did killa's and it's sorted.
Though that top of your plug being mushroomed out means some oil could still be seeping around the top tube seal. So I'd check that one as well since you're gonna be pulling the valve cover again anyway.
When pulling it, don't do what I did and removed all the bolts. They hold it together, fortunately I kept it squeezed together. Best thing to do is have a shop towel, pull the assembly, set it on the towel, wrap the towel over top and then flip it over. That way you don't risk the bolts coming out and the assembly grenading. It sounds scary but it's really quite simple to do.
Also you want to back the bolts out a little at a time in a certain pattern, and also retorque in a certain pattern, to avoid damaging the cam. If you need info on the specs let me know and I can snap a picture from the FSM for you. If you don't have one already.
Alright thanks for the info. For now I'll have to just monitor the leak. I plan on doing a water pump, tensioner, and belt soon so I'll replace those when I've already got it torn down. Also need to adjust my valves.
First things first I need some Damn time off work to do this pedal assembly. I've been limping it around and parking on hills to roll start it just so I don't have to mess with the clutch pedal. It will engage but it's a pain and I'm afraid I'm going to shear it completely. Shifting gears is fine just starting it is near impossible. One more day then it's coming out.
Someone has welded the rod it appears and at the bottom near the nut you can see where the metal is actually broken. I'm going to brace it up pretty heavily.
Well I got finished with the pedal assembly earlier today and it was not the easiest thing I've ever done to say the least.
Here is a picture after I dropped everything and started taking the assembly out.
So all lower dash trims and then steering column, fusebox, and both air ducts for vents then wam bam you can get to everything. If i did it again I'd remove the driver seat for more room.
Some pictures of the breaks...
Clamped it back together to where it should be and then welded in the plate to help support it.
Clutch feels nice and stock again with no squeaking of metal breaking and flexing.
WAGON BACK IN ACTION! More parts on the way from MESA (rareandoptional) Pics to come
Comments
LETS BEGIN!
Found my miss on my nearly new wires, ty warranty
Noticed my front trans mount was SHOT so I ordered a new one and these Prothane press in inserts. Vibrates at idle but Ive had solid mounts and it doesn't compare to them and these make the response rate and feel of the car great. Recommend to anyone who can look past a little shaking at idle.
Had to do this for some reason idk why
OH yea that's why. My new shoes came in!
Avid.1 Av-18 15x8.5 +15 (klutch sl1 reps)
I got a local shop pretty pissed off about the tires and they ended up telling me not to come back with anything "stretched" even though they really are not that bad at all so idk what the big deal was.
Pulled in the camber on both rears and gave ole blue a much needed wash.
Now im sitting at -1.8 in camber the rear and -2 camber in the front.
oh and i tossed the neo chrome lugs for some gunmetal
A interior shot my buddy took up at the lake!
more pics to come stay tuned for some with a real camera.
Of all things that could happen I ended up passing my twin up in the middle of nowhere, ive seen his wagon in town but never in person.
We ended up both turning around and pulled into a park to take some pics together and introduce ourselves.
Ive got more pics to come
Yeah, having a massive oil leak in the spark plug wells will do that. You should fix that before doing anything else. I'm surprised they honored a warranty when the wire is sitting in an oil bath. Replace the o-rings and that figure 8 one under the cam shaft. It's like $20.
I have one in the same colour too.. makes me wish mine wasn't bone stock :hopelessness:
Yeah, you replaced the top tube seals. There's another set below that are often more prone to leakage. So that's why you're burning through spark plug wires.
A shot from Killa's Wagon
Pull the whole rocker arm assembly. See how there are three o shaped seals and then one figure 8 shaped seal.
Get these from honda or online
3x 91301-PJ7-000
1x 91302-PJ7-003 - #4 cam holder
Put them in, torque the assembly back down to spec.
I did mine a month ago. After I saw your plug wires it prompted me to go check mine again. Dry as a bone. And I had oil in all four. We also did killa's and it's sorted.
Though that top of your plug being mushroomed out means some oil could still be seeping around the top tube seal. So I'd check that one as well since you're gonna be pulling the valve cover again anyway.
When pulling it, don't do what I did and removed all the bolts. They hold it together, fortunately I kept it squeezed together. Best thing to do is have a shop towel, pull the assembly, set it on the towel, wrap the towel over top and then flip it over. That way you don't risk the bolts coming out and the assembly grenading. It sounds scary but it's really quite simple to do.
Also you want to back the bolts out a little at a time in a certain pattern, and also retorque in a certain pattern, to avoid damaging the cam. If you need info on the specs let me know and I can snap a picture from the FSM for you. If you don't have one already.
Good luck, get it clean.
First things first I need some Damn time off work to do this pedal assembly. I've been limping it around and parking on hills to roll start it just so I don't have to mess with the clutch pedal. It will engage but it's a pain and I'm afraid I'm going to shear it completely. Shifting gears is fine just starting it is near impossible. One more day then it's coming out.
Someone has welded the rod it appears and at the bottom near the nut you can see where the metal is actually broken. I'm going to brace it up pretty heavily.
Here is a picture after I dropped everything and started taking the assembly out.
So all lower dash trims and then steering column, fusebox, and both air ducts for vents then wam bam you can get to everything. If i did it again I'd remove the driver seat for more room.
Some pictures of the breaks...
Clamped it back together to where it should be and then welded in the plate to help support it.
Clutch feels nice and stock again with no squeaking of metal breaking and flexing.
WAGON BACK IN ACTION! More parts on the way from MESA (rareandoptional)